I can build this tomorrow but where does it plug in? 
Vats Bypass plug and play?!
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From: Between Bowling Green/Owensboro
Vats Bypass plug and play?! Things you will need:
A good multimeter
Your GM keys
Harness plug for vats(junkyard,ebay etc) I think the hatch release button is the same is well, but dont quote me on that...
Small circuit board
Resistors
Clear Silicone
Electrical tape.
Measure the resistance of the key between the chips, mine came out to. 886-.887. I measured on the setting 2k ohm. So it is 886-887 ohm.
I bought the big pack or resistors so I could get it close as possible.
Take off the bottom of the drivers side dash cover with 7mm screws, you will find the red sleeves white wires going to ignition and the yellow and purple going to the pcm. Your connector will plug into them.
Basically all you have to do is solder in the resistors in the board, solder the connector to the , silicone the whole board then tape it up neatly to be sure and have some vibration resistance...
That way you can bypass vats and if it ever stops working you can plug it up stock...
Here is what the connector looks like...
A good multimeter
Your GM keys
Harness plug for vats(junkyard,ebay etc) I think the hatch release button is the same is well, but dont quote me on that...
Small circuit board
Resistors
Clear Silicone
Electrical tape.
Measure the resistance of the key between the chips, mine came out to. 886-.887. I measured on the setting 2k ohm. So it is 886-887 ohm.
I bought the big pack or resistors so I could get it close as possible.
Take off the bottom of the drivers side dash cover with 7mm screws, you will find the red sleeves white wires going to ignition and the yellow and purple going to the pcm. Your connector will plug into them.
Basically all you have to do is solder in the resistors in the board, solder the connector to the , silicone the whole board then tape it up neatly to be sure and have some vibration resistance...
That way you can bypass vats and if it ever stops working you can plug it up stock...
Here is what the connector looks like...
Last edited by Joshiedoom; May 1, 2010 at 01:12 PM.
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From: Between Bowling Green/Owensboro
DONE! And it works. No screwing up the stock wiring, no splicing stuff in, direct plug and play for cheap as hell. Ill help anybody do this as well just post up.
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Under the dash next to the steering wheel, purple yellow wire, then the other side is this white wire that is covered by a red sleeve. The red sleeve leads to the column, the other leads to the BCM, which this part has to plug into
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Thanks much! I just tried jumpering the starter portion of the circuit that worked for someone else in another post and now the starter actually engages but the fuel injectors quit after a couple of seconds...THIS is the fix I wanted...no hack job on the factory wiring. I'll hit the junk yard tomorrow to acquire the connector and give this a shot.
Thanks for the info!
Thanks for the info!
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I just bypassed my VATS system, so i could get some extra keys made cheaper. this is what i came up with for a plug and play setup. The entire thing is soldered together, then has water proof heat shrint over the resistors.
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It's Alive! Well the junkyards didn't have any Camaros so I cheated with my resistor...I held the leads onto the BCM side of the plug until the Security light went out and then started the car. About 20 seconds later the Security light came back on but as it states in the manual, if the system faults while the car is running you can still operate the car as normal, there is just no security feature. Soooooo now I can take my time to find another connector while putting up with the security light on the dash...but at least she runs!
Thanks for this post...very informative and very easy. Highly recommend this fix to anyone having the VATS issue.
Thanks for this post...very informative and very easy. Highly recommend this fix to anyone having the VATS issue.
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From: Between Bowling Green/Owensboro
Well the junkyards didn't have any Camaros so I cheated with my resistor...I held the leads onto the BCM side of the plug until the Security light went out and then started the car. About 20 seconds later the Security light came back on but as it states in the manual, if the system faults while the car is running you can still operate the car as normal, there is just no security feature. Soooooo now I can take my time to find another connector while putting up with the security light on the dash...but at least she runs!
Thanks for this post...very informative and very easy. Highly recommend this fix to anyone having the VATS issue.
Thanks for this post...very informative and very easy. Highly recommend this fix to anyone having the VATS issue.
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From: Between Bowling Green/Owensboro
I need a source for the plugs, if I had a major source then I could do it, or a part number. Plus I would need to know your resistance of the keys
The other is 12047662
You'd also need to buy the pins and the locks
Mouser sells them
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Do you even have the slightest clue, what you're talking about here, price wise? I doubt it, I wouldn't waste my time going to the yard to get a connector, I could get new for less then a buck.
The housing 12047662 cost $0.45 each
The pins 12047767 cost $0.17 each, you need 2
The lock 12047664 cost $0.11 each
For a grand total of $0.90
Yea I guess that's way too much
These are in quanities of one, if you buy more they're cheaper
The housing 12047662 cost $0.45 each
The pins 12047767 cost $0.17 each, you need 2
The lock 12047664 cost $0.11 each
For a grand total of $0.90
Yea I guess that's way too muchThese are in quanities of one, if you buy more they're cheaper
Thread Starter
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From: Between Bowling Green/Owensboro
Do you even have the slightest clue, what you're talking about here, price wise? I doubt it, I wouldn't waste my time going to the yard to get a connector, I could get new for less then a buck.
The housing 12047662 cost $0.45 each
The pins 12047767 cost $0.17 each, you need 2
The lock 12047664 cost $0.11 each
For a grand total of $0.90 Yea I guess that's way too much
These are in quanities of one, if you buy more they're cheaper
The housing 12047662 cost $0.45 each
The pins 12047767 cost $0.17 each, you need 2
The lock 12047664 cost $0.11 each
For a grand total of $0.90
Yea I guess that's way too muchThese are in quanities of one, if you buy more they're cheaper
What in the world are you trying to say, its less bull to drive to the yard, have to crawl under the dash and cut the connector out of the car, then to sit at my PC and order them online and have them show up the next day. Plus using a new connector allows you to crimp the pins directly on the resister, eliminating the rest of the parts and making a nice compact pakage