Check engine light flashes
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TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 318
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From: Oklahoma
P0107 Map sensor low voltage
P0113 IAT [intake air temp] sensor low voltage
These codes, and only the numbers, are from Auto Zone free scan.
Got the rest from reading the stickies, and I see why you should read them first. But now, how do I go about correcting these codes.
Last edited by squirlNUTZ; May 3, 2010 at 11:54 AM.
A flashing SES normally means random multiple misfires.....and it looks like you have P0300 code as well.
The MAP sensor will cause some running issues. The IAT, not so much.
When did this start? Was something changed on the car?
The MAP sensor will cause some running issues. The IAT, not so much.
When did this start? Was something changed on the car?
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 318
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From: Oklahoma
I changed the engine to an LQ9 with a 3500 converter. I started it last night and it ran great for a few miles than began to miss alittle.
What are you using for a management system. Stock computer?
If so, what year computer.
It could be a whole bunch of items. Usually on motor swaps it is bad wiring, bad grounds, or bad upfront engineering - mismatched computer to reluctor wheel / harness / etc...
If so, what year computer.
It could be a whole bunch of items. Usually on motor swaps it is bad wiring, bad grounds, or bad upfront engineering - mismatched computer to reluctor wheel / harness / etc...
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Thread Starter
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From: Oklahoma
2000 TransAm. LQ9 from a 2005 Denalli. 3500 converter. Pacesetter long tubes. EGR is off. AIR pump gone. Basic boltons. 
The car ran great for a short time. I cleaned the mass air, but it still has a missss at idle. You can see and hear it.
When it was first started it was kind of rough sounding but quickly smoothed out. It warmed up and idled like the original.
The car ran great for a short time. I cleaned the mass air, but it still has a missss at idle. You can see and hear it.
When it was first started it was kind of rough sounding but quickly smoothed out. It warmed up and idled like the original.
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2000 TransAm. LQ9 from a 2005 Denalli. 3500 converter. Pacesetter long tubes. EGR is off. AIR pump gone. Basic boltons.
The car ran great for a short time. I cleaned the mass air, but it still has a missss at idle. You can see and hear it.
When it was first started it was kind of rough sounding but quickly smoothed out. It warmed up and idled like the original.
The car ran great for a short time. I cleaned the mass air, but it still has a missss at idle. You can see and hear it.
When it was first started it was kind of rough sounding but quickly smoothed out. It warmed up and idled like the original.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 318
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From: Oklahoma
Computer for Denalli is in my attic. The 6.0 is in place of my 5.7
If you just put the 6.0 longblock in place of the 5.7, and used all of the car sensors/MAF/PCM/etc, then it is probably something mechanical or electrical, not in the tune...
The rough idle can sometimes cause those codes to come in when the engine is dying. Did you check the fuse for the sensors? Does it idle like this all of the time or does it come and go?
The rough idle can sometimes cause those codes to come in when the engine is dying. Did you check the fuse for the sensors? Does it idle like this all of the time or does it come and go?
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Oklahoma
I did change the long block, used all my bolt on parts ie headers, MAS, ported trottle body and a 3500 converter.
I have not checked the fuses yet. And yes it idles like **** now.
the SES light didnt begin to flash until it began to mis
Thanks for your help
I have not checked the fuses yet. And yes it idles like **** now.
the SES light didnt begin to flash until it began to mis
Thanks for your help
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 318
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From: Oklahoma
P0103 There is 11.9 voltage on the pink wire and 5 volts on the yellow
There should be 4-6 on both
P0107 There are 5 volts on the gray and 0 on the blue
The grey is reference voltage and good, but I cant scan it.
If your MAF is dead - which it looks like, and your MAP sensor is not working then the car cannot fuel properly.
In the event that the MAF fails, the MAP is required to perform the back-up speed density fueling. I can't remember if the MAP sensor attenuates voltage or not. If it doesn't then I would expect the signal voltage to be near the reference voltage while the engine is off.
I'm guessing both your MAF and MAP are not working, which I'm surprised the car even starts.
Does the MAP voltage change as the car operates? We can do without the MAF, but not both the MAF and MAP.
In the event that the MAF fails, the MAP is required to perform the back-up speed density fueling. I can't remember if the MAP sensor attenuates voltage or not. If it doesn't then I would expect the signal voltage to be near the reference voltage while the engine is off.
I'm guessing both your MAF and MAP are not working, which I'm surprised the car even starts.
Does the MAP voltage change as the car operates? We can do without the MAF, but not both the MAF and MAP.
