Cold start AFR error
Cold start AFR error I've been tuning my car since I installed my cam (230/232, 110LSA), and I have it idling great, driving great, no surging, etc. I still have a little ways to go (try CL, tune in the MAF, WOT AFR/spark on a dyno, etc), but thanks to all the advice here I believe my drivability is 90% there. My only issue is that during cold starts I have a huge AFR error which closes pretty quickly as the car begins to warm up. By ~150-160°F ECT the AFR error is pretty much gone, but at a ~60°F start I can be off by as much as 12-15%. My VE tables are all tuned to operating temp, so I've basically raped the OL EQ table to give me a "good" AFR per the wideband as it warms up. The car fires right up and finds idle no matter the temp, but I feel like I'm missing a table somewhere to add extra fuel during a cold start besides the OL table. I'm still OL right now but once I figure this out I plan to see how it does CL before I switch gears to tune the MAF. Any ideas on how I can close this hole, or is this a normal thing? Thanks!
Yeah, my stock OLEQ table went all the way up to 1.72 I believe. I can't imagine even a stock engine requiring 8.5:1. I don't have a problem hacking the table since this is a small deal, but it just seems wrong in general. I know I can set CL to activate around 140° and not have any fuel trim problems, so I may just do that for now. I did find searching the HP tuners forum that you can alter the Short Pulse Adder (vs. ECT I presume) to help this out. I may try playing with that as well as the ECT/IAT ratio to see if I can get it any more leveled out.
Even with CL enabling at 92 degrees you don't have LTFTs until 149 degrees (by the stock parameters anyway).
But that's why they call it tuning. You have to do what it takes to make it right. The stock settings are for the stock setup.
Good luck.
But that's why they call it tuning. You have to do what it takes to make it right. The stock settings are for the stock setup.
Good luck.
