Hi Im new to the forum so this question may have been asked before but here goes anyway.I am about to put a set of slp headeres y-pipe and cat back system on my 01 T/A m6.would it be worth my while to have some sort of compter tunr forit?If so what is the easiest way to have it done?
thanks for any help you can give.

 

What are your goals - max power, max economy, max durability?
What other mods you plan - catback and headers can generally be compensated for with stock PCM.
Don't be fooled by so called experts, a stock or basically stock (no turbo, cam or head, etc) engine is about as good as you can get to make the 3 above factors meet. Beyond that there may be a few % - maybe 25 to 50HP at certain points, with specific tuning AND simple mods, but you now need to consider the "fragile" drivetrain. Those stock rears are marginal at 300hp!

Do some studying, and get a tuner program (or at least read the manual of one) like www.EFILive.com, or do some Googling on some of the basics, and then examine the reasons WHY you NEED to "re-tune" a modern EFI engine.

Don't throw $$ and expect a miracle - I see too many unhappy owners and/or breaking cars because of this, and in the long run it's a shame.
These LS1 engines are mechanical and electronic marvels and to get ahalf a million or more of them to start every time, deliver a good 300hp when asked, get like 20-30MPG, and put out less pollution that a lawn mower, can be serviced and modified by most owners as well as trained technicians, and are affordable is proof of that!
Keep us informed on your ideas.

 

I already have slp lid k&n air filter and slp mass air meter.I dont plan on any other mods except maybe t-body bypass if that is even worth doing.my plans are to have the car run mid to high 12s nothing more.the car is a daily type driver,so I want to keep reliability.

 

What about a daily driver in the 11's? You will want it soon enough

 

Many cars have mild to midrage cams or heads/cam setups without tuning. Sure you might be leaving some power on the table, but tuning for your setup is not even close to "necessary".

 

2001 +2002 cars can really benifit from tuning.There timing sucks.

 

how does the timing suck any worse than earlier models or should I say why?

 

Timing on the '98 to '00 cars is usually around 27.5* by redline stock. I beleive the '01/'02 cars are somewhere around 22-24*. Someone with an '01/'02 will confirm....

 

what would be the aveage cost of tuning and how much hp would I net?curios to know if it is really worth it.

 

I ussually get 20hp/20tq across the lower rpm range.Makes throttle response alot better.

 

what exactly would I need to do to get a tune?would I use a hypertech programmer or would I need to take it to a tuner?

 

No such thing as an 11sec daily driver...........because, once it gets there and still behaves itself you'll want more, then more until you end up with a 9 second pig, but then, that's when it's fun.
Damn this performance bug!!.

 

You could buy LS1 edit or Predetor and tune it yourself or find a place that does Edit tuning and have them do it.I never recommend Hypertech for power tuning.

 

If you're adding Longtubes, a small additional investment in a better cam woult really *wake up* your combo. To keep it daily, select a cam in the 224 to 230 range and a 114 LSA.

Assuming you have an M6, as for tuning, all you'll probably need is a hole in the TB to let some more air in...If your A4, then consider getting a tune after that.

 

Tuning involves "reflashing" the PCM. I would avoide Hypertech, as i have heard of MANy probs with it. LS1EDIT - well you need a Master's Degree, or a big bank account to pay a (reputable, with references) tuner to enhance the OEM fuel and spark tables, or go with a Diablosport Predator. I have heard neutral and good, and so far nothing bad about it.

Of course, every day there are more options, so I'd wait till you "need' to tune instead of "just doing it".

Like anything else YOU need to know WHAT you want, what it is worth, and what you expect. Do some research and educate before plugging into that OBDII port!

 

I think for the money I would probally go with a mild cam and as long as I dont throw codes Ill just skip the tune for now,20to30 horse for 500 doesnt seem like a good deal to me.I could almost buy a nos kit for that much and would be more than enough for me.keeping in mind I already have another car with a vortech s trim that I can take to the track, if only it wasnt a ford thanks for everones input.

 

People who do not do tuning themselves are not seeing the total picture.

GM is stuck building 1 PCM calibration that allows a car to function no matter where the car is located, what the weather is and who is driving the car, thus the calibration is Generic and not assured it fits all of the above and best performance to boot.
Add EPA and CARB requirements and even a stock drivetrain can see a positive with a tune

Interesting before engines had a computer managing it people all the time tuned them, if it was total timing, carb or airflow and now because a computer that is only has a 16.7 Mhz CPU is running the engine people think there is zero need to tune the engine for any reason.

An aluminum engine by nature is more prone to knock, even if it is false knock or misfires.
Stock PCM calibration does not even turn the raditor fans on until around 220 degrees. Now even leaving the stock thermostat in which is 194 degrees if you tuned the PCM you could at least turn fans on at 195 degrees and even turn 2nd fan on sooner and that alone would help lean or knock issues, simply put a 165 degree stat in, tune the fans to 170 and you made the engine run better and performance alone does not mean more HP but tuning allows engine to run overall better.
Simple changes to timing, torque management, when engine goes into power enrichment, what RPMs you want engine to idle at, raise the rev limiter, if an A4 what speeds you want trannie to up or downshift, when it shifts how fast it shifts, tuning for the type of gas used, turning off Gags, etc, etc
So even a total stock car/truck can see positive improvements that not only will engine run better but also tunes the drive/powertrains to eact the way you enjoy driving the car.
In fact with a tune where the stock calibration will not mind at all of the engine is running 10% too lean or rich costing performance, the tune will direct the AFR to be more close to perfect and you not only get performance but also can gain in MPG to boot.

Now add some mods and by tuning the PCM you make those mods and engine work well with each other in further performance gains.

Just yanking the CATs off a stock engine has a negative to performance, but with tuning the ill stock calibtration can be corrected to work without the cats and still pass smog tests (other then visual tests).

 

will i have to get a dyno tune with whats in my sig plus longtubes and ORY. Also what is the best editing tool i could use out there, LS1 edit, predator, or just go to a dyno and have them tune it?

 

I will Confirm...I have an 01 Ram Air and LS1-Edited.......Stock Base Timing Sucks
Chris

 

Team ZR-1
You hit it right on the nose..Every car I've tuned for customers has made a big improvement and the owners love it.Some need more work than others due to mods done..The people that have never had there car tuned just can't understand how much of a difference it makes till they have it done.
2 years ago I bought Edit and I will say it was the best mod I ever did.