Best o2 sensors for ls1? (lts+ory)
#1
Best o2 sensors for ls1? (lts+ory)
Alright iv had the infamous "Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response" and im on 3 o2 sensors in one month. I know theres a bunch of people saying bosch is the worst (but some people have had luck). Our cars have been around for a while now so whats the best sensors to use? What do you use? What have you used? What has not worked in your car?
#2
TECH Resident
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I don't post all that often on here but I saw that you have made like 3 different threads about this essentially. There was a lot of discussion about this sort of problem in the past, and I see that you must have searched because you replied in one of the old threads.
As you well know this is a common problem with O2 sensors and the long tube headers. Various people have recommended all sorts of O2s and have given varied justifications for their recs. I have Dynatech's and so far they have liked Delphi O2 sensors the best. I tried Denso's and those would give me insufficient switching codes essentially when they were brand new (actually after 3 colds starts after install). People claim that the Vette post-cat sensors work well because they have stronger heaters, but I think that it was shown that was not the case in the thread where one of the members talked to a Bosch rep. However, there have probably been more posts about Bosch sensors working then there have been about them not working. I personally will probably try to find Delphi sensors again when I need to replace mine again, but they are much harder to get than Denso or Bosch unfortunately.
As you well know this is a common problem with O2 sensors and the long tube headers. Various people have recommended all sorts of O2s and have given varied justifications for their recs. I have Dynatech's and so far they have liked Delphi O2 sensors the best. I tried Denso's and those would give me insufficient switching codes essentially when they were brand new (actually after 3 colds starts after install). People claim that the Vette post-cat sensors work well because they have stronger heaters, but I think that it was shown that was not the case in the thread where one of the members talked to a Bosch rep. However, there have probably been more posts about Bosch sensors working then there have been about them not working. I personally will probably try to find Delphi sensors again when I need to replace mine again, but they are much harder to get than Denso or Bosch unfortunately.
#3
I guess this is just one thing that hasnt really been takin care of. Im suprised that its such a mystery like the way it is. Maybe thats why the aftermarket world hasnt been able to make a o2 designed to work better with lts+ory because there hasnt been enough people with this problem.
I wouldnt care about the code if my idle didnt change any. It didnt change much and other people wouldnt even be able to tell but I know its there. Maybe cause its not closing loop? Idk about tuning and all that.
I wouldnt care about the code if my idle didnt change any. It didnt change much and other people wouldnt even be able to tell but I know its there. Maybe cause its not closing loop? Idk about tuning and all that.
#4
Is there anything different in the design of the delphis that you think is better? I saw a post where the guy drilled holes in the o2s and said it worked. No more code. But then again that was a while ago and im waitin for a response back from him on that.
I just replaced the o2 with a stock bosch 13444. It hasnt set a code yet but then again my last one took a month for it to set.
I just replaced the o2 with a stock bosch 13444. It hasnt set a code yet but then again my last one took a month for it to set.
#5
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the switching codes shouldnt really cause any issues many people either live with the code and even some tuners like frost get rid of them from the get go with tunes. If your having idle issues I suggest looking at other things besides the codes p1153 and p1133. I tried bosch and densos they both gave me the codes but the densos did give me better mpgs and the car ran better overall. Eventually i just turned the codes off. Btw the above codes will not force the car into open loop
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#8
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As I told you in one of your many other posts on this subject... getting the car tuned properly will also take care of the codes. Because these cars run so rich on startup stock, and most people ditch the AIR system, they tend to get lazy O2s when you move them back with long tubes... a good tuner straightens this out with the tune, and you won't have this problem anymore.
#9
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As I told you in one of your many other posts on this subject... getting the car tuned properly will also take care of the codes. Because these cars run so rich on startup stock, and most people ditch the AIR system, they tend to get lazy O2s when you move them back with long tubes... a good tuner straightens this out with the tune, and you won't have this problem anymore.
#10
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Is there anything different in the design of the delphis that you think is better? I saw a post where the guy drilled holes in the o2s and said it worked. No more code. But then again that was a while ago and im waitin for a response back from him on that.
I just replaced the o2 with a stock bosch 13444. It hasnt set a code yet but then again my last one took a month for it to set.
I just replaced the o2 with a stock bosch 13444. It hasnt set a code yet but then again my last one took a month for it to set.
There are also all sorts of random brands I see on various websites and I am not sure how well they work or not. You hear about NTK on here as well, but I think they are supposedly the same as Densos. The new AC Delco sensors are Densos.
Just looking at some of the major autoparts chains' websites shows other brands like BWD, Standard Motor Products, Airtex. I have no idea what any of those sensors are like or if they are potentially just rebrands of the above sorts of sensors.
As I told you in one of your many other posts on this subject... getting the car tuned properly will also take care of the codes. Because these cars run so rich on startup stock, and most people ditch the AIR system, they tend to get lazy O2s when you move them back with long tubes... a good tuner straightens this out with the tune, and you won't have this problem anymore.
the switching codes shouldnt really cause any issues many people either live with the code and even some tuners like frost get rid of them from the get go with tunes. If your having idle issues I suggest looking at other things besides the codes p1153 and p1133. I tried bosch and densos they both gave me the codes but the densos did give me better mpgs and the car ran better overall. Eventually i just turned the codes off. Btw the above codes will not force the car into open loop
I don't have any experience with them, but I suspect the way to get a more accurate O2 would simply be to run widebands in each bank with narrowband output so that the computer could interpret the signals. Obviously the resolution wouldn't be where it is in wideband mode, but since the heaters are better they should be more accurate. I don't think they like to last as long when they are in continuous use though.
#13
i have the same problem,02 t/a with long tubes and ory,it was tuned a year ago by speesouth in pelham,al and recently these codes have showed up,i replaced the o2s with denso,but the codes remain.i really have not noticed a difference in performance,just that damn ses light on.plus there is a guy i work with who keeps talking **** about his volkswagen jetta (he has spent 14 grand on this car,high output turbo and complete engine rebuilt,6 speed manual and i don't know what else) and i really don't want to leave any horsepower on the table when we go to the track.
#19
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What are the stock sensors? GM? I have always used them
and even though I have changed the O2 table values
to get them to switch better at idle the stock sensors
seem to work fine in the collectors in my LT's. And I think
the O2 table needs adjustment after you put LT's on the
engine but no one seems to know how to adjust them
or they just won't tell how, I have had these issues my self
and getting the idle AFR and trims close made the codes go
away but still didn't switch as fast as I wanted to see so I set
the whole O2 table at something like 451 (the stock numbers
don't make any sense to me) and now the O2 switching is
much faster than they did and look ok at idle and my idle is
pretty good and stable (a little rich) and I also adjusted the
adaptive idle spark to help the idle...the stock numbers I didn't
like either going to like -16 degrees of spark...that's huge!
and just using some common sense adjustments and
taking that number to like -12 degrees seemed to help
...sorry for rambleing but I am trying to get this
part of the tune correct and any help is appreciated.
and even though I have changed the O2 table values
to get them to switch better at idle the stock sensors
seem to work fine in the collectors in my LT's. And I think
the O2 table needs adjustment after you put LT's on the
engine but no one seems to know how to adjust them
or they just won't tell how, I have had these issues my self
and getting the idle AFR and trims close made the codes go
away but still didn't switch as fast as I wanted to see so I set
the whole O2 table at something like 451 (the stock numbers
don't make any sense to me) and now the O2 switching is
much faster than they did and look ok at idle and my idle is
pretty good and stable (a little rich) and I also adjusted the
adaptive idle spark to help the idle...the stock numbers I didn't
like either going to like -16 degrees of spark...that's huge!
and just using some common sense adjustments and
taking that number to like -12 degrees seemed to help
...sorry for rambleing but I am trying to get this
part of the tune correct and any help is appreciated.
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itzmebaaatch (06-29-2020)
#20
What are the stock sensors? GM? I have always used them
and even though I have changed the O2 table values
to get them to switch better at idle the stock sensors
seem to work fine in the collectors in my LT's. And I think
the O2 table needs adjustment after you put LT's on the
engine but no one seems to know how to adjust them
or they just won't tell how, I have had these issues my self
and getting the idle AFR and trims close made the codes go
away but still didn't switch as fast as I wanted to see so I set
the whole O2 table at something like 451 (the stock numbers
don't make any sense to me) and now the O2 switching is
much faster than they did and look ok at idle and my idle is
pretty good and stable (a little rich) and I also adjusted the
adaptive idle spark to help the idle...the stock numbers I didn't
like either going to like -16 degrees of spark...that's huge!
and just using some common sense adjustments and
taking that number to like -12 degrees seemed to help
...sorry for rambleing but I am trying to get this
part of the tune correct and any help is appreciated.
and even though I have changed the O2 table values
to get them to switch better at idle the stock sensors
seem to work fine in the collectors in my LT's. And I think
the O2 table needs adjustment after you put LT's on the
engine but no one seems to know how to adjust them
or they just won't tell how, I have had these issues my self
and getting the idle AFR and trims close made the codes go
away but still didn't switch as fast as I wanted to see so I set
the whole O2 table at something like 451 (the stock numbers
don't make any sense to me) and now the O2 switching is
much faster than they did and look ok at idle and my idle is
pretty good and stable (a little rich) and I also adjusted the
adaptive idle spark to help the idle...the stock numbers I didn't
like either going to like -16 degrees of spark...that's huge!
and just using some common sense adjustments and
taking that number to like -12 degrees seemed to help
...sorry for rambleing but I am trying to get this
part of the tune correct and any help is appreciated.
up. Its hard to believe there hasnt been a answer for this.
I just brought back another bosch o2 for a new one. Ill see how long this one lasts. They told me they probly wont be honoring the warranty anymore cause I had to bring other o2s back. This is getting old.