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How much will dyno tune help my full bolt on 01 WS6?

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Old 09-24-2010, 01:17 AM
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Default How much will dyno tune help my full bolt on 01 WS6?

My 01WS6 had 104k miles with stock everything except I installed LID/mac filter,msd plug wires, hooker muffler. I went 13.18@101mph bouncing off rev limiter last 200ft or so,13.25@105mph if I shifted to 4th. It was 2k easy launch on street tires little wheel hop 2.1 60ft. Last year I had my tranny built, LS7 clutch kit,new slave,pro 5.0,LT headers,ORY,P/P throttle body and MAF done by myself,160 thermo. It ran very rough after the full exhaust. Sometimes idles @1000, sometime 900 and rarely @750 like it did stock, and thats when it runs good. It has a very noticable power difference, but ive noticed it seems like all TQ/HP is from 3k-5k. Before 3k it wont even break tires loose, soon as 3k comes it spins quick and dont stop till I hit 2nd. It stops pulling @5k and its really noticable. I was going to get the tune right after I installed the mods but I got laid off right in the middle of it all and I barlely got it back together. I know a tune would for sure help from seeing it in person, but never on my exact application. Me and my buddy went to the track last week, first time in a year and he has an 00' SS with just lid and borla catback. He only ran 13.8@103mph, and I went 13.006@112 with no spin on 2,200rpm take off on same street tires. It just wasnt right feeling, my stock time was very fast I thought, but with all I did I thought un tuned I woulda went 12.70-80 atleast. I then drove his car and noticed how smooth it was and I didnt have to do anything to take off from stop on the street, where in mine im revving up to 1500 just to leave a stop light. Also he had "smooth power" from 1500-5500 it felt like there was no weak spot. Mine is like taking off at 1500 and smashing the gas its barlely got ne power then @3k it slams me back hard and is done at 5k which doesnt take but maybe 2 seconds it seems. I remembered when mine drove like his b4 my mods and I was told a tune is really a must with LT's and no A.I.R.,no EGR stock, no cats, no rear 02's and 3in y pipe, and that it will make me have a smooth power band again but with a very very noticable driveability difference and more power spread throughout the powerband. Will it really make it drive good again and give me full use of my mods?...My other friends 03 Z06 ran 12.90 stock and after just headers with cats still and a tune he went 12.20! He said driving to the dyno shop after the headers that it didnt take off smooth or shift smooth at all like my car does.
Old 09-24-2010, 10:00 AM
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Well a tune will help you out im sure since it might be lean from everything you have done. It should help it drive better as well so whatever that is valued at in your book. I waited till I did cam and heads just to save some money but I never had any problems like you did on a stock tune. Some tuning places though require a stock MAF so depending on whatever you did to it you might run into troubles. Which might also be what is giving you troubles now. Mine ran pretty good after bolt on installs and the one thing i never touched was the MAF
Old 09-26-2010, 01:04 AM
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Default MAF mod

Originally Posted by Lambert695
Well a tune will help you out im sure since it might be lean from everything you have done. It should help it drive better as well so whatever that is valued at in your book. I waited till I did cam and heads just to save some money but I never had any problems like you did on a stock tune. Some tuning places though require a stock MAF so depending on whatever you did to it you might run into troubles. Which might also be what is giving you troubles now. Mine ran pretty good after bolt on installs and the one thing i never touched was the MAF
With the MAF I cut the middle divider out and just took any ridges out with my dremel and I used a inside caliper to make sure I didnt take any material out that didnt need to come out and then smoothed it all by wet sanding it, I also took the screen out but that was when I first got the car. I have heard tuners have trouble with the idle settings when people go crazy on throttle body porting, and some drill a bigger hole in the throttle plate, and also do the knife edge to the blade. I really dont think any of that stuff does much, but I've been laid off for so long I had to do something to help performance that didnt cost money, even though I knew it wouldnt do much. I didnt even get close to my throttle blade or touch the butterfly at all...I just smoothed out the ridge going into it and thats all. I didnt notice any difference except for quicker response after the MAF mod which I copied from installuniversity.com, but like you I'm a little worried about that kind of stuff and believe GM made them to work as good as possible for the most part so I measure it all very carefully so its not out of round etc....The low end torque went away right after I installed the LT's and the ORY. Since then its never been smooth like b4 and smells like a 1960's cammed 350. I was told if I hadnt of deleted the CATS that it wouldnt be so bad, but I dont know.
Old 09-26-2010, 09:15 PM
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hmmm idk.. something is weird. I've never had any issues with long tubes and I dont have cats and nothing to weird with that. What exactly did you take out of the MAF? Like i said a tune might help but alot of tuners just to spare a headache like to have an untouched MAF



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