getcha 01

iTrader: (4)

I have an 01 WS6 that ran great with 100k miles and just a lid/filter/hooker muffler, ran 13.18@101mph 2.0 60ft, no spin with fuzion tires out back @2,500rpm launch. I did have the occasional hard to hit 3rd/4th when speed shifting and finally broke a fork. I had the tranny built, this was 2 yrs ago, and while out I installed LT headers, ORY, spec clutch, pro 5.0 shifter. It had for sure noticable difference in sound and power, shifted perfect, but seemed to loose a lot of low end and top 1k of my rpm's. When I ran it I spun bad all 3 runs even taking off @ idle, I did have junk rear mismatched tires, and ran 13.08@112mph with 2.3 60ft. It didnt spin till about 3k and didnt stop till I shifter to 2nd. This year I have been on very tight budget and managed to get new fuzion rears again, LS7 clutch kit since the spec lasted 4 months, also installed 160 thermostat, I hand ported MAF just to take the edges out and cut middle divider out, also ported T/B again just to smooth it out. I drove my buddys stock 00' SS and it felt so smooth at takeoff and all throughout the rpm range compaired to mine, thats when I noticed how much I have to work just to drive my car normal, I guess I have drove it so long now with no tune I got used to it. When I did the tranny/header/ORY install, my tranny builder told me I should get a tune after all the exhaust mods to make it drive better and get the most HP and TQ out of what I have. I didnt think it was that bad then, but now I notice it bigtime and no way I can come up with 350-450 bucks for a tune. I have been to 3 places in STL area and cheapest was 350 for up to 4 pulls and have my car an entire day. The 450 quote was 2 pulls and 4hrs to tune my car. Is there any cheaper place to get a dyno tune? Is it well worth the $350 like every1 is telling me with the mods I have? I know my buddy was running 12.90's with his 01 Z06 with mid tubes/catback, and after tune he ran 12.49....

Tobias05

iTrader: (1)

you're opening pandora's box messing with the maf. highly recommend getting a stock one and leaving it alone.

get a mail order tune from frost. 150$ do a search on him. he's always a couple hp w/n a dyno tune.

my bolt on car was alot smoother and easier to drive after the tune, and also had a noticeable power increase. it really brought the lower end and throttle response together.

Frost

iTrader: (45)

Why would you do that? That ruins them.

Your setup is an ideal candidate for mail order tuning, but not with a 'ported' MAF. That guarantees that even if it's not totally ruined, it's going to have to be tuned by someone in person with a wideband.

getcha 01

iTrader: (4)

I only smoothed out the MAF because pure bordom and also I havnt been able to purchase ANYTHING for my car in over a year! I'ts so hard to make good money from age 20-24, then get laid off and have no jobs to turn to for 2 years, I'm now 26 and the last 2 years I have collected unemployment or made 10hr doing same thing I did before and made 3 times that. I have only made enough money to pay for my car pyment/insurance etc. Had to sell truck,bike,4 wheeler, jet ski etc...I'm not the only one so I BIT#$&% already enough. But yea thats how it goes for me, I got bored this spring and really wanted to do anything I could to make my car quicker or something lol. I read all over that porting stock MAF and T/B dont do much at all, but I had nothing else to do. I always was the guy saying not to cut baffles out of ram air hood, or dont touch MAF and tell people the stock MAF can handle 500hp so leave it alone. I read that if you port the throttle body out of round or its not reading steady then you have to get the tune done solely by the 02 sensors. I was very careful when I did it, I only used dremel to gring down the aluminum left over after cutting the center divider out. I left the wires and entire composite middle piece alone, and wet sanded the MAF body just to get all the casting bumps and ridges out, same with T/B. I never messed with filling the PCV hole or nothing like other people do. It didnt throw a code or anything and I did that about 10k miles ago, I didnt notice anything but quicker throttle response after doing the T/B.