Got codes P1133 and P1153
Got codes P1133 and P1153 I got the SES light for a front O2 sensor and I replaced it with a new denso sensor.........now I get the P1133 and P1153 codes which are for insufficent switching bank? My guess is that I should have replaced both sensors? The denso sensor is a newer style one compared to the old AC delco's that were on there so Im guessing one side reads better than the other.
Any other suggestions?
Any other suggestions?
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Joined: Dec 2005
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From: CT
those two codes are due to having long tube headers installed...
you need to get the tune reprogrammed in your pcm in order to have them disabled...
you need to get the tune reprogrammed in your pcm in order to have them disabled...
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06MonteSS / DiabLew Tune
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06MonteSS / DiabLew Tune
2014 Camaro 2SS/RS - LS3, 6-speed manual, short-throw performance shifter, NPP dual-mode performance exhaust, 1LE front splitter, ZL1 rockers, Z28 Rear Spoiler, all paint-matched Red Rock Metallic, BMR strut tower brace, Cold Air Inductions cold air intake, Apex Motorsports, Inc. catch-can, Custom DiabLew Tune
www.diablewtune.com -- www.diablocustomtune.com -- www.diablocustomtunegm.com
You can remove the code in the pcm, but..
If you are using long tube headers you are better off Getting the Corvette rear 02's.
They have longeg cables (no extenders needed) and they have a hotter heating element in them.
I swapped my stockers to them when i got LT and no issue since.
If you are using long tube headers you are better off Getting the Corvette rear 02's.
They have longeg cables (no extenders needed) and they have a hotter heating element in them.
I swapped my stockers to them when i got LT and no issue since.
Problem is caused because the 02's are not being heated up enough after installing the long tube headers causing issues when switching from open to close loop. If you run a search you'll find that people have tried the longer Vette sensors (as i did), Denso sensors, Bosch sensors, GM sensors, header wrap, repositioning the O2 bung and its pretty much hit or miss with the codes usually coming back.
After swapping numerous 02 sensors, I had my tuner bypass the 02's and it runs fine.
After swapping numerous 02 sensors, I had my tuner bypass the 02's and it runs fine.
You can remove the code in the pcm, but..
If you are using long tube headers you are better off Getting the Corvette rear 02's.
They have longeg cables (no extenders needed) and they have a hotter heating element in them.
I swapped my stockers to them when i got LT and no issue since.
If you are using long tube headers you are better off Getting the Corvette rear 02's.
They have longeg cables (no extenders needed) and they have a hotter heating element in them.
I swapped my stockers to them when i got LT and no issue since.
When I had the headers put on a also had the Bosch corvette 02s put in. I just had an LS6 crate put in and cam and it was dyno tuned. Don't you think the tuner would have tuned the 02s as necessary. I feel that's a no brainer...
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Verdad Gallardo Damn, I'm not exactly looking to have to take it all the way to him since he's 130 miles away. Is it hurting anything by driving with the codes being thrown? The LAST thing I want to do is hurt this brand new engine....
Last edited by Adam2001WS6; Dec 28, 2010 at 07:43 PM.
Regardless, I HAVE the vette 02s already and the problem is still present. Short of having to take it all the way back 130 miles... is it hurting anything internally to continue to drive the car with these codes?
I swapped in new O2's (stock replacement) into my truck when I swapped to longtubes. Roughly 7 months without any header related codes. Mine would get them whenever it felt like it, with no pattern or regularity whatsoever. I just modified the tune to NO ERROR REPORTED for those particular codes and no MIL since. Some debate whether this is the "right" way to "fix" the problem. All I know is that truck ran the same with or without the light on, and used no more or less gas with light on or off, so I chose the "easy fix" of turning off the codes...
I've been fighting with p1133 ever since I installed the Hooker longtubes. I've tried multiple O2 sensors, tuned by a pro, tune up, and welded the exhaust: Problem continues. New O2 sensors last 3-6 months, and burn up again and cause misfires (p300). I wish I never bought these headers, or never did them at all. 
Passenger side has not thrown one code over the years. I think the only resolution for my car is a SD tune.
Passenger side has not thrown one code over the years. I think the only resolution for my car is a SD tune. Last edited by _JB_; Dec 29, 2010 at 08:35 PM.
I've been fighting with p1133 ever since I installed the Hooker longtubes. I've tried multiple O2 sensors, tuned by a pro, tune up, and welded the exhaust: Problem continues. New O2 sensors last 3-6 months, and burn up again and cause misfires. I wish I never bought these headers, or never did them at all.
Even if pcm is "tuned" to a NO ERROR REPORTED for the codes that come along with slow sensor switching, all that does is keep the MIL lamp turned OFF. It does NOT make the sensors switch faster. The sensors are still slow switching due to the nature of the longtube headers. IE, the further away from the exhaust ports you go, the cooler the actual exhaust temperature is. The cooler the exhaust, the slower the O2's switch. Like said, I also got the same codes as the original poster, but simply "turned them off". The cause of the codes is still there, but I've never experienced misfire or any noticeable effects on a/f ratio. Mine would set the MIL on usually at very light cruise rpm, or at idle, but like I said above, there was no consistency to how frequently it would do it.
I would think that if the O2 sensors are actually fouling out, then you need more than just the codes disabled. That sounds like it is an actual tuning problem, and not just a sensor placement problem. JMO...
On a stock, from the factory tune, don't the O2 sensors tell the computer to adjust the air/fuel mix, so if they are reading out of range and throwing the SES light on, wouldn't that mean they are telling the PCM to change the air/fuel mixture? For example, if the car is running between the normal parameters, the air/fuel is set at one level and as the O2s read out of range, lean or rich, they tell the PCM to adjust accordingly... So regardless if the O2s are setting the SES light, they are in fact telling the PCM to adjust air/fuel out of wack(??)
Did that make sense? Maybe I'm just complicating things and thinking way too much into it...
Did that make sense? Maybe I'm just complicating things and thinking way too much into it...
The codes you guys are getting are coming up because the sensors are not staying hot enough to "switch" as quick as they normally would on a stock vehicle. The O2's always provide a/f feedback to the PCM while in closed loop, and still do even when they are slow switching. It's not a real big deal and is actually quite common with longtube headers. There's ways to "tune" the PCM to think the slow reacting sensors are responding as they should, but 99% of the people with this problem simply turn the code off and forget about it.
If you have a way to physically look at the O2 sensor voltages while the car is running, you can 100% verify whether they are "slow" or actually "dead". Most any decent code scanner, tuner or tuning software will allow you to do that. Even a digital volt meter would work if you are determined enough. If one or both sensors are dead (not working at all) then the car would be rough idling and running like crap at anything other than WOT, since they are ignored at WOT anyway. If they are just slow, the car should idle fine...
If you have a way to physically look at the O2 sensor voltages while the car is running, you can 100% verify whether they are "slow" or actually "dead". Most any decent code scanner, tuner or tuning software will allow you to do that. Even a digital volt meter would work if you are determined enough. If one or both sensors are dead (not working at all) then the car would be rough idling and running like crap at anything other than WOT, since they are ignored at WOT anyway. If they are just slow, the car should idle fine...
The codes you guys are getting are coming up because the sensors are not staying hot enough to "switch" as quick as they normally would on a stock vehicle. The O2's always provide a/f feedback to the PCM while in closed loop, and still do even when they are slow switching. It's not a real big deal and is actually quite common with longtube headers. There's ways to "tune" the PCM to think the slow reacting sensors are responding as they should, but 99% of the people with this problem simply turn the code off and forget about it.
If you have a way to physically look at the O2 sensor voltages while the car is running, you can 100% verify whether they are "slow" or actually "dead". Most any decent code scanner, tuner or tuning software will allow you to do that. Even a digital volt meter would work if you are determined enough. If one or both sensors are dead (not working at all) then the car would be rough idling and running like crap at anything other than WOT, since they are ignored at WOT anyway. If they are just slow, the car should idle fine...
If you have a way to physically look at the O2 sensor voltages while the car is running, you can 100% verify whether they are "slow" or actually "dead". Most any decent code scanner, tuner or tuning software will allow you to do that. Even a digital volt meter would work if you are determined enough. If one or both sensors are dead (not working at all) then the car would be rough idling and running like crap at anything other than WOT, since they are ignored at WOT anyway. If they are just slow, the car should idle fine...