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Procharged 403 wont pull past 5500 RPM....

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Old 12-15-2010, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by C/Performance
Everyone has an opinion.Here is mine.
I would run the car with a tune with out the meth to see what it does
Meth will decrease your afr by 2 points.Go extra rich !
I would lean the afr to 11.50 not 10.5 it is way to rich and can cause detonation too much fuel.
With meth you can add up to 5 degrees of timing from the tune with out the meth.
When meth is sprayed your IAT go down drasticaly.
If you spray too much meth at the start you will run too rich.
The meth is making you afr rich, and can make it not rev.
Are you running straight meth or 50-50?
You need to have the controller settings on the meth set correctly on the timer .
Gap your plugs 0.25
I agree with your assessment, as you can see the AFR was pretty good up to just past 5500 RPM where it starts to go pretty rich. I plan to make these adjustments prior to the next dyno pull.

currently I am running a 75/25 mixture, tried 100% meth but wasn't getting the cooling I wanted. a bad by product of spinning the impeller to max was very high IAT's (150-165) during the summer months with ambients around 100*.

Thanks for the input, will post results as they come in....
Old 12-15-2010, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by b727pic
I agree with your assessment, as you can see the AFR was pretty good up to just past 5500 RPM where it starts to go pretty rich. I plan to make these adjustments prior to the next dyno pull.

currently I am running a 75/25 mixture, tried 100% meth but wasn't getting the cooling I wanted. a bad by product of spinning the impeller to max was very high IAT's (150-165) during the summer months with ambients around 100*.

Thanks for the input, will post results as they come in....
Run the meth 50-50 and your IAT will go down quicker and run cooler and the pcm will add timing.
Then you know your METH IS DOING ITS JOB !
Then you back down the timing.
Its a time consuming process.
Also when the car is on the dyno take the air filter off, its a major
restriction at wot.It will suck it closed.
Do not overtighten your blower belt,as time goes by, it will take out the bearings on the blower.
Seen it happen.
Something to keep in mind:
After 12 to 14psi your belt will start slip and if you cog the blower, the blower is history within
a couple thousand miles.

Last edited by C/Performance; 12-16-2010 at 11:07 AM.
Old 12-16-2010, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by C/Performance
Run the meth 50-50 and your IAT will go down quicker and run cooler and the pcm will add timing.
Then you know your METH IS DOING ITS JOB !
Then you back down the timing.
Also when the car is on the dyno take the air filter off, its a major
restriction at wot.It will suck it closed.
Do not overtighten your blower,as time goes by, it will take out the bearings on the blower.
Seen it happen.
Something to keep in mind:
After 12 to 14psi your belt will start slip and if you cog the blower, the blower is history within
a couple thousand miles.
ahhhh.. the perils of FI, gotta love it! I have been tweaking on this car for nearly 5 years.....it never seems to end, always something that needs to be adjusted / replaced for what ever reason.
Old 12-22-2010, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by b727pic
Trying not to confuse matters, and making one change at a time. I swapped out pullies.

Old setup: 8" crank x 3.25 blower, 65,000 impeller RPM @ 6500 engine RPM
Yielded: 204 KPA / 14PSI

New setup: 7" crank x 4.25 blower, 43,500 impeller RPM @ 6500 engine RPM
yielded: 134.6 KPA (6400 RPM) / 9.28 PSI
134 kPa is 5.1 psi not 9.3! You should see around 165 kPa for 9 psi.

I can't read your logs, but going richer than 10.5:1 can kill power in a big way. Also, look for kinks or restrictions in your intercooler piping. They can limit your power yet the boost graph will look fine. NGK 7s are a good plug for your power level.
Old 12-25-2010, 01:34 AM
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Originally Posted by white01ss
134 kPa is 5.1 psi not 9.3! You should see around 165 kPa for 9 psi.

I can't read your logs, but going richer than 10.5:1 can kill power in a big way. Also, look for kinks or restrictions in your intercooler piping. They can limit your power yet the boost graph will look fine. NGK 7s are a good plug for your power level.
Thanks for the correction, did a little research and found the flaw in my math Actually I am quite happy about that, since around 5 lbs is what I wanted as part of my quest to figure out what is happening with my setup.

Aside from the pulley change out, I am going to go ahead and install the tr7's gapped to .028, street tune where I can, then back to the dyno and see if anything changed in the upper RPM.
Old 12-27-2010, 02:47 PM
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What's happening on the dyno you should be able to feel on the street. If you can't, then it's probably load related (like a clutch slipping or a converter if you had one).
Old 12-28-2010, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 98Z28CobraKiller
What's happening on the dyno you should be able to feel on the street. If you can't, then it's probably load related (like a clutch slipping or a converter if you had one).
tires are spinning at the speeds I am talking about, so in reality I guess that is a no load situation. very difficult to find a 235 tire that is going to hook at these power levels on the street
Old 03-10-2011, 03:47 PM
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Back on the dyno today with some changes made.

1) Removed TR6 plugs installed TR7's gapped @ .025
2) Meth disabled
3) Tweaked AFR to 11.5(ish) on the dyno
4) pulls made with 12 PSI pulley and a 5 PSI pulley.

Results: While the graph was a little more linear due to the AFR clean up, power still drops off considerably around 5500 RPM.

At this point I am eliminating the exhaust / header theory, as they same issue exists whether I am pulling 600+ or 450HP.

I think its also fair to eliminate the valve float theory for the same reason as the exhaust. same issue with very low boost pressure???

Car runs smoothe thru the pulls, however power just simply starts to fall off a cliff at 5500 RPM.

My current theory is this:

In both my 408 and now the 403 the same issue existed. In both cases I had installed the cam "dot to dot". I have seen and heard of cases where just being off one tooth has had similar results. So even assuming my "dot to dot" is accurate, I am planning on tearing into front of the motor and actually degree the cam. If that doesn't show anything significant, I suppose at that point I should toss another cam in and see what happens???

I am wondering about affects from bad sensors....ie cam and crank? as stated the car runs smoothe, so no ill running effects that I would think would be evident from a bad sensor??? I guess before I tear into the motor too deep, I should at least pull the crank and cam sensors....not sure what I would be looking for other than obvious damage?

What about reluctor wheel runout? I can see how RPM might play an effect on this, how does one go about checking runout at RPM???



Need input....what are your opinions??
Old 03-10-2011, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by b727pic
Back on the dyno today with some changes made.

1) Removed TR6 plugs installed TR7's gapped @ .025
2) Meth disabled
3) Tweaked AFR to 11.5(ish) on the dyno
4) pulls made with 12 PSI pulley and a 5 PSI pulley.

Results: While the graph was a little more linear due to the AFR clean up, power still drops off considerably around 5500 RPM.

At this point I am eliminating the exhaust / header theory, as they same issue exists whether I am pulling 600+ or 450HP.

I think its also fair to eliminate the valve float theory for the same reason as the exhaust. same issue with very low boost pressure???

Car runs smoothe thru the pulls, however power just simply starts to fall off a cliff at 5500 RPM.

My current theory is this:

In both my 408 and now the 403 the same issue existed. In both cases I had installed the cam "dot to dot". I have seen and heard of cases where just being off one tooth has had similar results. So even assuming my "dot to dot" is accurate, I am planning on tearing into front of the motor and actually degree the cam. If that doesn't show anything significant, I suppose at that point I should toss another cam in and see what happens???

I am wondering about affects from bad sensors....ie cam and crank? as stated the car runs smoothe, so no ill running effects that I would think would be evident from a bad sensor??? I guess before I tear into the motor too deep, I should at least pull the crank and cam sensors....not sure what I would be looking for other than obvious damage?

What about reluctor wheel runout? I can see how RPM might play an effect on this, how does one go about checking runout at RPM???



Need input....what are your opinions??
If you run the car all motor, does the power drop at 5500?
Old 03-10-2011, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by C/Performance
If you run the car all motor, does the power drop at 5500?
We didn't try NA on the dyno today?

I would have thought by reducing my PSI as dramatically as we did should have all but eliminated most of the previous theories. I have to pick up the chart later (ran out of ink) but I couldn't have been pulling more than 3.5-4 PSI @ 5500RPM when the power started to drop. Boost doesn't seem to impact the point of hitting the wall....its seems to be RPM related regardless of airflow?

Last edited by b727pic; 03-10-2011 at 06:57 PM.
Old 03-10-2011, 07:26 PM
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Ron, when the cats blew out did you check your mufflers to see if the innards from the cats clogged them up? Bob
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Old 03-10-2011, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by b727pic
We didn't try NA on the dyno today?

I would have thought by reducing my PSI as dramatically as we did should have all but eliminated most of the previous theories. I have to pick up the chart later (ran out of ink) but I couldn't have been pulling more than 3.5-4 PSI @ 5500RPM when the power started to drop. Boost doesn't seem to impact the point of hitting the wall....its seems to be RPM related regardless of airflow?
Does your fuel pressure stay steady at 5500rpm?
Did you try running the car open headers?
Old 03-10-2011, 08:25 PM
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That is a gnarly long turn and piping (3" I assume) going into the blower, I bet the P1 just can't produce enough suction to flow air for more than 5k rpms. And when you slowed the blower down it still cant make the suction. Take that inlet off and I bet you gain 50-100rwhp.
Old 03-10-2011, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob@BruteSpeed
Ron, when the cats blew out did you check your mufflers to see if the innards from the cats clogged them up? Bob
Hey Bob,

Well they were metallic CATS the brick melted on the front end, but nothing came out the back. I cut the CATS out of the old midpipes (gonna weld in the new ones) and the back of the bricks were intact.

Great thought though appreciate the input.

Last edited by b727pic; 03-11-2011 at 12:16 AM.
Old 03-10-2011, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by C/Performance
Does your fuel pressure stay steady at 5500rpm?
Did you try running the car open headers?
Fuel pressure climbs on a 1:1 ratio with boost. I log this data with HP Tuners all is working well in the fuel department.

Have not tried open headers....

Here is my thought on this. When I bought my procharger kit from EPP (Bob), I bolted that system on to a bone stock new Ls1 made 450 to the wheels with absolutely everything else being stock!!!

having added the JBA shorty headers, catless mids, and a Magnaflow catback one would think flow should have been improved....not hindered? I do have a Stainless works 3" catback that needs new muffs installed. I suppose I could blow the dust off that setup and see what happens.

I just find it very curious that I keep hitting the wall at the same RPM, regardless of airflow???
Old 03-10-2011, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 99bluefirebird
That is a gnarly long turn and piping (3" I assume) going into the blower, I bet the P1 just can't produce enough suction to flow air for more than 5k rpms. And when you slowed the blower down it still cant make the suction. Take that inlet off and I bet you gain 50-100rwhp.
Point taken: Although that intake setup is pretty well documented on the GTO Boards without any issues? However that being said, its an easy thing to pull off on the next dyno session.

I thought about doing it today, but I am leaning away from "airflow" related theories in favor of a mechanical issue. Keep in mind this "issue" is the same as it was with my 408 install, and at that time I didn't have the "intake" mod as it currently is installed, yet the wall was hit at the same RPM???
Old 03-10-2011, 10:09 PM
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If you decrease your timing to 15 degrees and an a/f ratio of 11.95 how will she do?

You know, I had a customer's 2004 GTO w/ a P1SC do something similar to me when the Maf was still part of the tune. Once we did a true speed density, no more issues. Above is the final a/f and timing on the tune we did. Over 600 rwhp, never lags, never studders, never plateaus all the way to redline. But, this was a heads, cam, p1sc LS1.
Old 03-10-2011, 10:35 PM
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Bypass the blower and run it on the dyno and see if it will pull higher without issue.
If so double check your springs,pressure and installed height.
If you can get your hands on a height checker pull a spring and be sure of your installed height.
Old 03-10-2011, 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 99bluefirebird
That is a gnarly long turn and piping (3" I assume) going into the blower, I bet the P1 just can't produce enough suction to flow air for more than 5k rpms. And when you slowed the blower down it still cant make the suction. Take that inlet off and I bet you gain 50-100rwhp.
that will cut the curve head off, it wont make it plummet.

valvefloat or other valvetrain issue, or ignition. And its not plugs, making 5 lbs of boost tr6 and .035 gap will light it off fine, much less 7s and .025 gap? It still has ind coil per cyl right

I dont have to close my gap with an out of the box .032 gap plug making @1000 hp burning 100#/hr worth of e85 at 19 psi
Old 03-10-2011, 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by b727pic
I think its also fair to eliminate the valve float theory for the same reason as the exhaust. same issue with very low boost pressure???

In both my 408 and now the 403 the same issue existed. In both cases I had installed the cam "dot to dot". I have seen and heard of cases where just being off one tooth has had similar results. So even assuming my "dot to dot" is accurate, I am planning on tearing into front of the motor and actually degree the cam. If that doesn't show anything significant, I suppose at that point I should toss another cam in and see what happens???

Need input....what are your opinions??
being off a few degrees in cam timing will move the curve forward or bck, but it wont make it crash.

Why do you have silly rhoads lifters? Sure they arent pumping up or bleeding down drastically? Run virtually no preload one pull and see what happens


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