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Worth it to tune a stock T/A?

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Old 02-27-2011, 09:57 PM
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Default Worth it to tune a stock T/A?

Only thing I have added is a Lid, deleted smog pump, SLP Flowpac(I know), EGR delete, catback w/a cutout and 2002 injectors(had RC 35lbers on traded to a friend that needed them, on when I bought the car).
Is there a point to tuning it? I know I am going to gain some hp/tq and can correct some things(check engine light etc)but is it worth the $$? Only plans are for LT's but then again I have had the car for almost 6 years and haven't done them yet ha. What is changed to help a stock engined car out besides shift points and shift firmness? Thanks in advance.
Old 02-27-2011, 10:50 PM
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wait for longtubes
Old 02-27-2011, 10:53 PM
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you need to get it tuned at a minimum because of the injector swap... You should never change injector sizing without making the corresponding calibration changes. Having an auto means that there is more to gain through tuning as well.
Old 02-27-2011, 11:09 PM
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I changed injectors because the ones that were on the car when I bought it were 35lb RC injectors. So I traded with my friends H/C car for his stock ones since the trade was free I pulled the trigger.
Thanks Frost, I had talked to you a year ago or so about my SS. I sold it thats why I never sent it to you.
Any typical gains I could see with the tune? LT's may not come for a while thats why I want to send it. I got other things to take care of and I want to buy some ARH's or SS Works so I gotta save up. 4 month old are expensive!
Old 02-28-2011, 10:53 PM
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your fueling is probably way off because of that aftermarket lid. There is quite a bit to be gained by tuning your setup and I'm not just talking about peak horsepower. LS1's run pretty rich stock. On a car with the mods you have tuning will be pretty easy, the maf needs to be dialed in, a/f ratio leaned out, timing bumped, trans settings, fans etc.
Old 02-28-2011, 10:56 PM
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It's pretty surprising how much there is to "fix" on a stock car/tune.
Old 02-28-2011, 11:05 PM
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not sure if your being sarcastic or not.
Old 02-28-2011, 11:08 PM
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Thanks for the info JDMC5, plus I didn't know the lid had any effect on the fueling.
Smog pump/air tubes deleted, egr delete so throwing codes for secondary air etc, want the codes deleted for emission's purposes. So yup, gotta fix my stock car plus the slightly bigger injectors that are now on the car I'm sure are doing more damage than good even if they are only a couple of lbs bigger.
I didn't know you could do so many corrections on a basicly stock car. Crazy.
Does elevation have anything to do with the tune? El Paso is at 3500-5200ft above depending on day.
Old 02-28-2011, 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by JDMC5
not sure if your being sarcastic or not.
Same here, I am gonna take it as non sarcasim and give the OP the benefit of the doubt lol.
Old 02-28-2011, 11:14 PM
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well you have to remember the OEM's have emissions to deal with and also warranty claims. Just to give you an idea, stock LS1's run a/f ratio in the 11's.

EDIT: oh yeah an air intake will almost always throw your fueling off. It's changing the way the air flows over the maf sensor. Remember airflow over a cross section is not necessarily completely linear, any kind of bends/ angles will cause the air to flow more toward one side, kinda like how water does.

Last edited by JDMC5; 02-28-2011 at 11:20 PM.
Old 03-01-2011, 11:05 AM
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Thanks JDMC5. I'm gonna end up getting a tune then, hopefully I can break some better times before I add any mods.
Old 03-01-2011, 03:02 PM
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you should I don't see why not.
Old 03-02-2011, 02:02 AM
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Yeah, I hope so. I ran a best of 13.74 in El Paso at over 5000ft above so hoping for at least a tenth or so.
Old 03-02-2011, 02:31 PM
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hell, you'll probably gain a tenth just from your transmission tuning.

I put a cold air intake, a no name catback and a half *** tune on my 03C5 and ran 12.98 @ 109.00. With a better tune it would have ran 12.7-12.8 @ 110-111, I'm sure of it. And that's with an auto and 2.73 gear.
Old 03-03-2011, 12:13 PM
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Ha sweet. At SAR with the cutout open, I hit a 13.1@107.99mph that was at 600ft above. So getting at least another tenth or 2 would be great.
Old 03-07-2011, 07:38 PM
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i'm glad this thread came up recently. i have also been wondering the same question. i only have a lid, free r/a (for whatever that's worth ) and a cutout that i usually leave open. my car is mostly a highway car that i use too and from school. i have always been wondering if getting a tune from frost would help the mileage at all. however i will say, that it is not my primary intention. i just want it to run optimally, or as close as it can come with the A4. any advice? sorry for the
Old 03-07-2011, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by IrocZTransAm
Only thing I have added is a Lid, deleted smog pump, SLP Flowpac(I know), EGR delete, catback w/a cutout and 2002 injectors(had RC 35lbers on traded to a friend that needed them, on when I bought the car).
Is there a point to tuning it? I know I am going to gain some hp/tq and can correct some things(check engine light etc)but is it worth the $$? Only plans are for LT's but then again I have had the car for almost 6 years and haven't done them yet ha. What is changed to help a stock engined car out besides shift points and shift firmness? Thanks in advance.
Most places that tune your car charge way less the next time you take it to them. Ask them in advance. I paid $500 for the first tune and any tune after that is $75. So take that into consideration.
My $ 0.02
Old 03-08-2011, 12:51 PM
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I plan to send my PCM to Frost since the downtime is of no concern since I don't drive this car daily anymore. I'll ask him before I send it out to him if there is a lower cost if I send it to him again within the year since I am thinking about LT's. I know TSP gives a discount or free tune if you dynotune it there, then within the year it is discounted or something like that.
Don't worry about the , this is all here to help everyone out.




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