Megasquirt II problems(long... tune/logs/video attached)
05-18-2011, 09:13 AM
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Megasquirt II problems(long... tune/logs/video attached) I am relatively new to MS and had someone semi local build my box. I have gotten it to crank, but not much more. I understand how motors work, but if you start talking about .ini files, code, etc I am lost. Below is my situation! BTW, if anyone is in central NC and would like to help, please let me know! I'm struggling at this point! I have the MS II Extra setup( MS2/Extra release 3.1.1 and Tuner studios 1.01) and used some of the factory wiring to get it into my 87 Iroc. Car setup is a 355 TPI with a large Vortech supercharger. I'm using the TPS, IAC, 4 bar MAP, AEM WB, Air intake, and coolant temp sensors. The car will run, but not very well. The main issue I'm having is spark and can't seem to get it timed.
I beleive it has something to do with the GM/DIS bypass on D16. With it on the car will crank and run for 5 seconds. At that point it shuts the entire car off(via removing spark per the red LED on my digital 6 box). It will do this no matter what I try. Well, IF I turn off the GM/DIS bypass it will crank and stay running at least at idle(won't rev well at this point). As SOON as I cycle the ignition off and back on the third light on my MS(builder of the MS said the third light is the light showing timing retard during cranking) turns off and while cranking the motor the MSD box is not getting a signal(red light isn't flashing on it and no spark to the distributor from the MS). The ONLY way for me to get it to start again is to turn the GM/DIS bypass BACK on, cycle the battery switch, and then the third light will be on. Once that is done I can go BACK into tuner studios and turn the GM/DIS back off to get it to crank and run. If the bypass stays on I can cycle the key/power and it keeps all three lights on(although the car won't start), BUT as soon as I do it with the bypass OFF, once the key is cycled I get two lights and the no start condition.
-I have bypassed the MSD box, same results.
-power to the coil wire has been verified
-The ONLY differnce is the white wire from the MS is not signalling to the distributor when it's not cranking.
-I have verified the MS is getting a tach signal even in no start situations as it cuts the fuel pump on during cranking and the tach in tuner studios is moving while cranking.
I'm NOT sure if I linked or uploaded this correctly or not, but attached are my current tune and the two run files. One with it on(run for 5 seconds) and one with it off.
Think you have to right click save as, if it doesn't work can someone help me out with that please?
Tune
http://jonsmithphoto.com/nuffnuffz28...0up%20tune.msq
GM bypass on D16 on(runs and cuts spark)
http://jonsmithphoto.com/nuffnuffz28...-16gmheion.msl
bypass off(runs, but still every time I cycle the key it won't start...)
http://jonsmithphoto.com/nuffnuffz28...c/gmheioff.msl
I beleive it has something to do with the GM/DIS bypass on D16. With it on the car will crank and run for 5 seconds. At that point it shuts the entire car off(via removing spark per the red LED on my digital 6 box). It will do this no matter what I try. Well, IF I turn off the GM/DIS bypass it will crank and stay running at least at idle(won't rev well at this point). As SOON as I cycle the ignition off and back on the third light on my MS(builder of the MS said the third light is the light showing timing retard during cranking) turns off and while cranking the motor the MSD box is not getting a signal(red light isn't flashing on it and no spark to the distributor from the MS). The ONLY way for me to get it to start again is to turn the GM/DIS bypass BACK on, cycle the battery switch, and then the third light will be on. Once that is done I can go BACK into tuner studios and turn the GM/DIS back off to get it to crank and run. If the bypass stays on I can cycle the key/power and it keeps all three lights on(although the car won't start), BUT as soon as I do it with the bypass OFF, once the key is cycled I get two lights and the no start condition.
-I have bypassed the MSD box, same results.
-power to the coil wire has been verified
-The ONLY differnce is the white wire from the MS is not signalling to the distributor when it's not cranking.
-I have verified the MS is getting a tach signal even in no start situations as it cuts the fuel pump on during cranking and the tach in tuner studios is moving while cranking.
I'm NOT sure if I linked or uploaded this correctly or not, but attached are my current tune and the two run files. One with it on(run for 5 seconds) and one with it off.
Think you have to right click save as, if it doesn't work can someone help me out with that please?
Tune
http://jonsmithphoto.com/nuffnuffz28...0up%20tune.msq
GM bypass on D16 on(runs and cuts spark)
http://jonsmithphoto.com/nuffnuffz28...-16gmheion.msl
bypass off(runs, but still every time I cycle the key it won't start...)
http://jonsmithphoto.com/nuffnuffz28...c/gmheioff.msl
05-23-2011, 11:24 AM
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More news...
Well, verified base is 10 this weekend. It will run fine all day without the brown(B pin in diagram below)
When the third light is not on(the megasquirt) like stated above the car won't crank. Pull the plug on the brown wire and it will start even though the third wire is not lit. That help any?
Also, per the guy that helped me build the box I swapped spark outpuit from inverted to normal and it made NO difference. It still showed 20 degrees at idle either way(correct per MS ignition spark programmed in).
So, when everything is hooked up correctly, as soon as you turn off the key it resets and the third light is now not on the MS and it won't start. Pull the brown wire OR reset the MS to GM Bypass on to get the third light back on, then turn it of, and cycle the key I get one good crank.
I can't start tuning until I have this issue figured out!
Well, verified base is 10 this weekend. It will run fine all day without the brown(B pin in diagram below)
When the third light is not on(the megasquirt) like stated above the car won't crank. Pull the plug on the brown wire and it will start even though the third wire is not lit. That help any?
Also, per the guy that helped me build the box I swapped spark outpuit from inverted to normal and it made NO difference. It still showed 20 degrees at idle either way(correct per MS ignition spark programmed in).
So, when everything is hooked up correctly, as soon as you turn off the key it resets and the third light is now not on the MS and it won't start. Pull the brown wire OR reset the MS to GM Bypass on to get the third light back on, then turn it of, and cycle the key I get one good crank.
I can't start tuning until I have this issue figured out!
