Swapped motors, no spark, BCM going nuts. Help
06-05-2011, 04:38 PM
#1
Swapped motors, no spark, BCM going nuts. Help I did a job for a guy, I removed his LS1, installed an LQ4. When I started work on the car, the guy had already taken all kinds of stuff apart, some of it unnecessary, like removing the PCM, stuff like that. 
Anyways, I put it all back together, and I have a no-start condition. I never saw the car run, the reason for the engine swap is bad bottom end bearings.
= Checked for spark (New spark plug held against coil bolt), it sparks either once or not at all, every time the key is turned to START
= Checked wiring, grounds (3 on back of head are tight, block ground is tight)
= Ground behind battery is clean and tight
= Crank speed is good
= Engine appears to be getting fuel
= Replaced Crankshaft sensor with known good sensor, wiring is secure
= Changed PCM with known good PCM, still no spark
= Swapped ignition relays, all fuses check out OK.
I've encountered plenty of no-start conditions before, but never not been able to fix it. I cannot check codes until tomorrow.
Here's what's weird. With ignition keyed on, there is a loud relay-like clicking inside the dash (BCM?) on-off at the rate of 2x per second, and the flashers in the cluster blink (the external bulbs do NOT)
The security light remains lit constantly, key on, and crank.
The battery gauge does not register above 8V
Tachometer does not move while cranking
When key is removed from ignition switch, gauges snap to full, then back to 0.
I charged this guy dirt cheap labor to swap engines (and build an LQ4 longblock), and apparently I won't get paid until it's running. I have EFILive V2, what should I look for? This issue has me extremely upset. I hate it when people tear apart stuff before I work on it. 
Any suggestions would be really appreciated, thanks.
Anyways, I put it all back together, and I have a no-start condition. I never saw the car run, the reason for the engine swap is bad bottom end bearings.= Checked for spark (New spark plug held against coil bolt), it sparks either once or not at all, every time the key is turned to START
= Checked wiring, grounds (3 on back of head are tight, block ground is tight)
= Ground behind battery is clean and tight
= Crank speed is good
= Engine appears to be getting fuel
= Replaced Crankshaft sensor with known good sensor, wiring is secure
= Changed PCM with known good PCM, still no spark
= Swapped ignition relays, all fuses check out OK.
I've encountered plenty of no-start conditions before, but never not been able to fix it. I cannot check codes until tomorrow.
Here's what's weird. With ignition keyed on, there is a loud relay-like clicking inside the dash (BCM?) on-off at the rate of 2x per second, and the flashers in the cluster blink (the external bulbs do NOT)
The security light remains lit constantly, key on, and crank.
The battery gauge does not register above 8V
Tachometer does not move while cranking
When key is removed from ignition switch, gauges snap to full, then back to 0.
I charged this guy dirt cheap labor to swap engines (and build an LQ4 longblock), and apparently I won't get paid until it's running. I have EFILive V2, what should I look for? This issue has me extremely upset.
I hate it when people tear apart stuff before I work on it. Any suggestions would be really appreciated, thanks. Last edited by 67RSCamaroVette; 06-05-2011 at 10:40 PM.
06-05-2011, 08:47 PM
#2
Timing gears are dot to dot, it's not a timing issue. The car battery is too low to crank by itself, but cranks very fast after a few minutes with a jumper. I ported the throttle body and attached all 3 grounds on the back of the head to the same bolt..
