Knock Sensor Code P0327 - Washed engine bay the cause
Knock Sensor Code P0327 - Washed engine bay the cause Well I was talked into washing my engine bay and my guess is that I killed the front knock sensor. It has been a few days with the SES light on and really didnt give it much attention because I assumed it was a cyl 6 missfire code (I just usually get this code when in heavy rain, still dont know why). Noticed my fuel consumption sky rocket and decided to check it tonight and seen this code twice. Cleared it and now Im hopeing for the best. I suppose my questions would be; could washing the engine bay cause this and if so, once wet, is it done for? Or is it possible to recover?
On a side note, I also had P1404. But I had the EGR removed and tuned out. Just wondering what could have caused this...
TIA
99 Z28 235K miles
On a side note, I also had P1404. But I had the EGR removed and tuned out. Just wondering what could have caused this...
TIA
99 Z28 235K miles
Looks as though I may have toasted it. Drove to work, 30 miles, fine. On the way back, SES lights up. Ill check the codes soon. I already plan to check the wireing when I replace the knock sensor anyway. Hell if Im that far, Id be stupid not to.
Just replaced the two sensors and the harness, same stupid reason, watering hose. I sealed up the covers pretty good with rtv when I put it together. I am sure that occasional water will not get down in there again. But I won't be turning the hose on it either anytime soon.
Got the sensors for $70 (GM) and the harness (GM) for $45.
In case you haven't researched it yet, only get GM sensors.
235K miles, very impressive!
Jon
Got the sensors for $70 (GM) and the harness (GM) for $45.
In case you haven't researched it yet, only get GM sensors.
235K miles, very impressive!
Jon
Make sure you do the harness and like it was said already DO NOT USE AFTERMARKET SENSORS! They just don't last any time at all. That job is a pain to do a second time within 20K miles (ask me how I know
) I don't know how many times I've seen people wash their engines then call me saying their CEL is on. When you put it back together seal the KS seals with a little RTV, it'll help.
) I don't know how many times I've seen people wash their engines then call me saying their CEL is on. When you put it back together seal the KS seals with a little RTV, it'll help. Trending Topics
You may have gotten them on eBay for that price, but I want a warranty that someone will stand behind. That and I really cant wait on eBay. Ive already got one from vatozone, and Im sure Ill be pissed later but I have to do what I can now. Thanks for the advice.
Anything else I should do while I have the intake off?
Anything else I should do while I have the intake off?
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There is actually a service bulletin on this due to knock sensor problems when the motor gets wet. Recommended fix is to build a dam of silicone around the knock sensor cover.
PS leave a opening on rear of the "dam", do not built it high as it may stick stick to the intake, I put a dab of grease on top of it
just my .02'
Johnny
PS leave a opening on rear of the "dam", do not built it high as it may stick stick to the intake, I put a dab of grease on top of it
just my .02'
Johnny
There is actually a service bulletin on this due to knock sensor problems when the motor gets wet. Recommended fix is to build a dam of silicone around the knock sensor cover.
PS leave a opening on rear of the "dam", do not built it high as it may stick stick to the intake, I put a dab of grease on top of it
just my .02'
Johnny
PS leave a opening on rear of the "dam", do not built it high as it may stick stick to the intake, I put a dab of grease on top of it
just my .02'
Johnny
You may have gotten them on eBay for that price, but I want a warranty that someone will stand behind. That and I really cant wait on eBay. Ive already got one from vatozone, and Im sure Ill be pissed later but I have to do what I can now. Thanks for the advice.
Anything else I should do while I have the intake off?
Anything else I should do while I have the intake off?
Jon
Well I somehow broke the oil pressure sending unit, even though I made sure I didnt touch the thing. I suppose it was just that bad. I also destroyed the wire, or should I say the completely worthless gromet did. As I pulled it up, it just skinned the wire of its casing 
FU GM Well I did it and she runs much better now! But spent 60 bux on a non working oil pressure switch DAMN!
Steady reads 60 and only drops to 45 and stickies alot
EDIT, well maybe my oil press is much better than I thought. Cold idle is about 60 PSI, hot idle is about 50 PSI, and driving hot is about 55 PSI. Does this sound right on such a high mileage motor? Before it would fluctuate really bad between 42 PSI all the way down to hot at around 25. Then accel would put it about 40... I hope this is good news and that the old senser was just toast. What do you guys think?
Steady reads 60 and only drops to 45 and stickies alot
EDIT, well maybe my oil press is much better than I thought. Cold idle is about 60 PSI, hot idle is about 50 PSI, and driving hot is about 55 PSI. Does this sound right on such a high mileage motor? Before it would fluctuate really bad between 42 PSI all the way down to hot at around 25. Then accel would put it about 40... I hope this is good news and that the old senser was just toast. What do you guys think?
Last edited by nimrod.sixty9; Jul 6, 2011 at 08:35 AM.
If I recall correctly when I had to replace mine (from a stupid move doing my intake) that there was advice to watch your torque on the new sensor as overtightening can skew the results.
This may have been B.S., but I made sure to follow the service ft-lb #'s.
This may have been B.S., but I made sure to follow the service ft-lb #'s.
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Im getting the same code after washing my engine knock sensor low circuit imput. im also getting shitty gas mileage. but still runs strong
Is it ok to drive it like this until i scrap the money to get it fixed?
Is it ok to drive it like this until i scrap the money to get it fixed?
I wouldn't think so as I imagine it would retard the timing to compensate for detonation that actually isn't happening. Its easy and cheap to replace.
