Always getting knock Retard
Always getting knock Retard Hi
my friends Camaro SS
has a strange problem
he bought a rebuilt motor *short block* from a local guy here
built LS1 348ci set up for nitrous
Custom Nitrous Camshaft 228/230 571/573 LSA 114
Rest of the setup
ETP 215 62cc
FAST 102mm
102 bigmouth
headers
11.1 CP
3200stall
3.73 gears
The car is a good daily driver, it's tuned and sound great
and the mid range TQ is huge
But the problem is it doesn't stand timing, it has to be in the 17-18° in timing so it doesnīt sense Knock Retard in WOT and it doesnīt pull jack **** after 4500 rpms
AFR is 12.5 threw the band, but if you give it more timing it just KR, we tryed give it racegas but it didnīt change anything it just KR if we gave it more timing.
I think it isnīt false knock, because i can get KR out by going down in timing.
the car went at the track like this and it went 13.1@105
So the question is
What can be wrong here ?
could it be
1. the Camshaft is built this way
2. the camshaft is degreed wrong
3. something wrong whith tuning
???
Baezi
my friends Camaro SS
has a strange problem
he bought a rebuilt motor *short block* from a local guy here
built LS1 348ci set up for nitrous
Custom Nitrous Camshaft 228/230 571/573 LSA 114
Rest of the setup
ETP 215 62cc
FAST 102mm
102 bigmouth
headers
11.1 CP
3200stall
3.73 gears
The car is a good daily driver, it's tuned and sound great
and the mid range TQ is huge
But the problem is it doesn't stand timing, it has to be in the 17-18° in timing so it doesnīt sense Knock Retard in WOT and it doesnīt pull jack **** after 4500 rpms
AFR is 12.5 threw the band, but if you give it more timing it just KR, we tryed give it racegas but it didnīt change anything it just KR if we gave it more timing.
I think it isnīt false knock, because i can get KR out by going down in timing.
the car went at the track like this and it went 13.1@105
So the question is
What can be wrong here ?
could it be
1. the Camshaft is built this way
2. the camshaft is degreed wrong
3. something wrong whith tuning
???
Baezi
Do you have another wideband to check and see if yours is accurate? What wideband? How is it tied into the scanning software?
Were you logging 12.5:1 as it did this? Or are you going off of a previous assumption that the car is still running the same AFR as set prior?
Try giving it a little more fuel and see if it makes it better or worse. Ever look at the plugs?
Were you logging 12.5:1 as it did this? Or are you going off of a previous assumption that the car is still running the same AFR as set prior?
Try giving it a little more fuel and see if it makes it better or worse. Ever look at the plugs?
Do you have another wideband to check and see if yours is accurate? What wideband? How is it tied into the scanning software?
Were you logging 12.5:1 as it did this? Or are you going off of a previous assumption that the car is still running the same AFR as set prior?
Try giving it a little more fuel and see if it makes it better or worse. Ever look at the plugs?
Were you logging 12.5:1 as it did this? Or are you going off of a previous assumption that the car is still running the same AFR as set prior?
Try giving it a little more fuel and see if it makes it better or worse. Ever look at the plugs?
And offcourse i assume the AFR readings from the sensor is right, i tried to give it 3% more fuel, and it still saw KR.
but plugs havenīt been looked at, they are new. NGK TR55
Baezi
Those heads are extremeley efficient at getting air into the cylinder.
With my ls2 I have a very similar setup.
Etp 215
236/240 110 cam
11.0 or higher cr
At wot I could only get 19-21* timing
Mind you my cam shaft is alot bigger and less efficient then yours, slightly bigger bore then ls1.
If I were you
I would get her on a dyno and tune it.
The dyno numbers and curves will help a ton.
With my ls2 I have a very similar setup.
Etp 215
236/240 110 cam
11.0 or higher cr
At wot I could only get 19-21* timing
Mind you my cam shaft is alot bigger and less efficient then yours, slightly bigger bore then ls1.
If I were you
I would get her on a dyno and tune it.
The dyno numbers and curves will help a ton.
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Adding 3% fuel is not much. If you are really at like 14.7:1-15:1 (if WB is not right) or around there 3% wont do ****. I would add more.... little at a time and have someone follow you. Richen it up so they can see a little puff of smoke on acceleration or smell it. Know when your rich and you'll have an idea when your lean so you'll know where your at better.
Im just basing my guess off you're info, no power and knocking... usually its lean as hell. Ive had Widebands lie to me so I know its possible,,., And your story sounds very similar to one I have.
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Verdad Gallardo Use TR6 plugs. That will help. OR if he is running the juice, I would use a recommended plug from Harris Speed Works. They have a huge write up on spark plugs for nitrous somewhere on this forum.
Can you post a scan by chance?
Can you post a scan by chance?
Well alot of times the harness gets pinched in between the intake and the back of the head. But that would normally throw a code. I was just wondering if they were put on the side of the block near something noisy or something that makes alot of vibration.
Def go to at least a TR6 plug in that one. That should help a little, but most of it is prob related to what your WOT readings are and if they are consisent. The best way is to get a scan or 2. You are saying they are 12.5, but what wideband and what offset are you running? Or are you running it through an LM-1/LM-2 then into HPT?
Def go to at least a TR6 plug in that one. That should help a little, but most of it is prob related to what your WOT readings are and if they are consisent. The best way is to get a scan or 2. You are saying they are 12.5, but what wideband and what offset are you running? Or are you running it through an LM-1/LM-2 then into HPT?
