Rely on old tune for break in period on new stroker?
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Rely on old tune for break in period on new stroker?
I'm putting in an iron 6.2L with LS3 heads, Nasty fuel system, a FAST 102, and a 222/226 5xx/5xx 117 cam in my car, and I'm concerned about what to do for initial start up and break in. My car is tuned for a stock fuel system LS1 with a TR224/224 114 with stock heads and intake. Is the tune at a point where it would be close enough to the original cam to start up, or should I get a mail order tune before hand? My car was tuned at a shop, but I'm confused on how to get the car tuned without first breaking it in.
Thanks for the help,
-Chris
Thanks for the help,
-Chris
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Get a base tune for idle and part throttle, puts some miles on it and change the oil and get the WOT tuned finished. It may cost a few more dollars like that buts its way less than another motor. Most shops or tuners wont charge (or shouldnt) you full price for a second tune just to finish WOT.
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To be fair, cheaping out on a base tune is not what I'm trying to imply. I want to know the correct way to tune it, not the cheapest. I share your frustration, though. I'm asking this question because I value the investment I've made thus far, and I'm asking what the safest way to tune the car is. I want to know how I'm supposed to break in the car without getting it tuned before hand. I was under the impression that to get a full tune, the car had to be exposed to WOT, and I didn't know if this was safe on a fresh build. Looks like my best option is to get a partial tune? with just basic changes, then after the break in get another tune? Thanks so much for the help guys, I really want to do this right the first time.
-Chris