Burning up o2 Sensors, why?
Burning up o2 Sensors, why? It seems I am having to replace o2 sensors every few months in this car (ls2, cam, full exhaust, etc) any ideas of what may be causing this? The car seems to run fine until they burn up, then it goes into open loop or whatever and feels like a dog. Sure they are under warranty, but I am getting tired of crawling on my back under the car to change em! 
First question is do you have a tune? Second would be how do your spark plugs look? And last question is, do you have a way to scan your car to see what the fuel trims look like? You can use efi live, HPT, diablo, or any other generic scan tool like auto tap, any snap on or matco scanner, tech 2, genisys, nemisys etc.
Answer those questions and you will get an answer that will fix the problem.
Answer those questions and you will get an answer that will fix the problem.
I bought the car as is, checked a couple plugs and they looked fine, it was tuned by TSP who did the motor swap/cam/exhaust. We are probably going to hook it up to an actual wideband and see what is going on there, it has an air/fuel meter but it simply shows lean, stoich or rich and runs off of the o2 sensor readings, not a direct hookup.
I was just hoping someone had maybe encountered this issue before and had a quick/simple fix
I was just hoping someone had maybe encountered this issue before and had a quick/simple fix
You're not burning them, you're fouling them. Too cold makes it trim
to too rich, soot deposits coat them and make it even worse. You
can kill the heater codes and keep it from faulting into open loop,
but the fact that it runs worse open loop means your tune needs
work. They all feed on each other.
I got tired of it and went back to shorties. Life is better. There's
always somebody faster and I'll give up a pony or two for a car
that runs right without me constantly smacking it upside.
Might try every heat related trick before you give up on the
long tubes especially if you don't already have an alternative
in the shed.
to too rich, soot deposits coat them and make it even worse. You
can kill the heater codes and keep it from faulting into open loop,
but the fact that it runs worse open loop means your tune needs
work. They all feed on each other.
I got tired of it and went back to shorties. Life is better. There's
always somebody faster and I'll give up a pony or two for a car
that runs right without me constantly smacking it upside.
Might try every heat related trick before you give up on the
long tubes especially if you don't already have an alternative
in the shed.
