Using wideband o2's in place of narrowbands?
10-01-2011, 10:33 AM
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Staging Lane
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Using wideband o2's in place of narrowbands? I have a 2000 Camaro SS and I currently have an lc-1 with the xd 16 gauge running through hptuners and I was wondering if I could buy two bosch wideband sensors and splice them in to the factory wiring harness for the front o2 narrowband sensors. Then the computer will use the widebands as feedback instead of the narrowbands and i'll still have the other wideband with the lc1 running through hptuners. Can it be done? and if so, does anyone have a wiring diagram to help me rewire everything? Will there be any problems running the widebands to the computer like this? I tried searching this and there is a sticky that soundengineer made but when I click on it, it says the page is not found. Thanks for any help. Mike
10-01-2011, 01:53 PM
#2
I have a 2000 Camaro SS and I currently have an lc-1 with the xd 16 gauge running through hptuners and I was wondering if I could buy two bosch wideband sensors and splice them in to the factory wiring harness for the front o2 narrowband sensors. Then the computer will use the widebands as feedback instead of the narrowbands and i'll still have the other wideband with the lc1 running through hptuners. Can it be done? and if so, does anyone have a wiring diagram to help me rewire everything? Will there be any problems running the widebands to the computer like this? I tried searching this and there is a sticky that soundengineer made but when I click on it, it says the page is not found. Thanks for any help. Mike
You cannot wire the sensors directly to the PCM. Narrow bands are 0-1.0v signal output, and widebands are 0-5.0v signal output.
What you CAN do, is get 2 wideband kits, with 0-1.0v analog outputs, and wire them into the PCM. But, you still will only have a "narrow band" input to the PCM.
10-01-2011, 02:55 PM
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Staging Lane
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So basically its pointless to wire in 2 widebands. I was hoping I could do that to see if my o2's would switch better at idle. Do you know if there is anything i can mess with in hptuners that would help my o2's switch better at idle. My cam is small, its a thunder racing trutorq level 1- 219/224 .604/.609 115, stock ported heads, stock injectors, full exhaust. thanks.
10-01-2011, 04:34 PM
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Many wideband units offer either a 0-1V dedicated switching output or
let you program the main output to be so. A cheap comparator IC attached
to the primary output could provide you the right signal, easy enough.
You want to watch the wideband signal conditioning, though; a lot of
filtering goes on and there's a lag that can destabilize the closed loop
fueling (I see transport delay stuff in the software but no idea how to
use it or if it's even appropriate to this).
I wonder how much heater current a narrowband can take and whether
a better approach would be to run the heaters, hotter. Like with a boost
DC-DC converter.
What screws your switching is not the cam, it's the headers. There are
some theories about ways to keep more heat (wrapping, shielding, open
the slots in the probe, use a standoff to cut conduction) but I just said
the hell with it and went back to shorties.
One thing I was working on, but never got to putting onto the collector,
was a bit of clothes dryer ducting cut with tabs bent to stand it off
from the collector wall 1/4" and a 1" hole cut in the center of the foot-
long segment for the sensor. Idea being that this would be like a
Thermos and let the local area be at exhaust gas temp rather than
halfway to ambient. Same idea as those anti-blue motorcycle exhaust
pipes. The fiber wrap can be bad for headers if you do it too close to
the head and they can hold moisture to cause rusting, but a shield
approach might net you some improved switching.
let you program the main output to be so. A cheap comparator IC attached
to the primary output could provide you the right signal, easy enough.
You want to watch the wideband signal conditioning, though; a lot of
filtering goes on and there's a lag that can destabilize the closed loop
fueling (I see transport delay stuff in the software but no idea how to
use it or if it's even appropriate to this).
I wonder how much heater current a narrowband can take and whether
a better approach would be to run the heaters, hotter. Like with a boost
DC-DC converter.
What screws your switching is not the cam, it's the headers. There are
some theories about ways to keep more heat (wrapping, shielding, open
the slots in the probe, use a standoff to cut conduction) but I just said
the hell with it and went back to shorties.
One thing I was working on, but never got to putting onto the collector,
was a bit of clothes dryer ducting cut with tabs bent to stand it off
from the collector wall 1/4" and a 1" hole cut in the center of the foot-
long segment for the sensor. Idea being that this would be like a
Thermos and let the local area be at exhaust gas temp rather than
halfway to ambient. Same idea as those anti-blue motorcycle exhaust
pipes. The fiber wrap can be bad for headers if you do it too close to
the head and they can hold moisture to cause rusting, but a shield
approach might net you some improved switching.
