Hey guys, I'm having some issues with my car and I was just wanting to see some of you thoughts on what could cause these to happen.

'98 Camaro: '06 LQ4, 5.3L heads, LS6 cam, LS2 intake and injectors, 102mm TB, 4" intake tube with LS7 MAF sensor - '06 4L80E
Wiring harness from Speed Scene Wiring and LQ4, 4L60E (not tuned for 4L80 yet) tune with HPtuners

First: I'm sure I froze my battery last month, so I have to jump start it. But even with jumper cables or high amperage charger, the engine still cranks slow. Have to hold the key for prolly 5 to 10 seconds. The battery I have is a 630 CCA, which I am taking back for a warranty. I was thinking of upgrading to a high amp battery and a high torque starter.
Next: I've got a repository tune off of HPtuners for a setup similar to mine, hoping it would work alright. The car runs but its strange. My MAF and IAT aren't working so I know that's one major thing. But the LTFT are reading -14, I think, on both banks. It runs very sluggish but I understand and will being going to a tuner soon to fix the problems.
Lastly: When I put the shifter into OD, it doesn't go into gear at all. In drive, it'll finally shift but it seems to slip quite a bit before I take off. I'm pretty sure the fluid is at the right level, but I will check in the morning. But while I'm driving, if I shift it down to 1st, it'll actually upshift to 3rd I believe. And then put it in Drive again and it downshifts. I don't think 2nd changes anything. Would this be in the TCM tune or somehting mechanical?

If anyone can chime in with some help with any of this, I'd appreciate it. And if anyone has HPtuners file for a 4L80, I'd be thankful. And I have edited the MAF table for a 102MM. Any other questions or wanting more info, just ask. Thanks in advance.

 

GET the battery issue corrected, B4 you get into the other problems.
Trying to power the system thru a trashed battery is not working. Just because you are jumping/charging, there's guarantee that the power is "making the trip"....

Get the correct program in there for the 4L80, then troubleshoot any trans performance problems that may come up. The current tune won't work!

 

^^^^This (drawing big circle around everything on a big chalk board!!!!) NEEDS TO BE FIXED!!!!

Start fixing your problems. Why come on and ask for help with something you know has THAT many problems? You know what alot of your problems are. Fix them, and alot of your issues will go away.

 

If you still have problems after fixing the above stuff, you need to attach your current tune file and a log. Many things could be wrong in the tune. Are you tuning with a wideband or fuel trims?

 

Do I just get a file from just any vehicle with a 4L80 or are there certain ones with better programs? And I don't know what all needs to be changed between a 4L60 and 80. But I don't have any expirience actually adjusting the tunes. I don't have wideband but a have logged a couple drive of fuel trims and spark. If I load my tune, could someone look at it for me? I deleted AIR EGR Evap and rear O2s, i think I did it correctly.

And yes, I'm going to take care of the battery today and try to figure out the MAF and IAT.

 

Unfortunately its just not that easy to download a tune file, flash it to the car, and done. The repository should be used only as a reference. Use the compare feature in hpt to change just the tables you need from downloaded tunes. Hate to say it, but you've got a long road ahead until your tune is rock solid.

 

There's no real use looking at the tune yet. I mean, you can put it up, we can look at it, but with a the mechanical issues with the car, it's pointless to even be talking about tuning it right now.

For the 4L80 swap, you'll need to do a segment swap or get the adapter harness from Alvin. It's not as simple as changing a few parameters in the tune.

 

Sorry, I'm new to tuning and everything. I prefer engine building, but I'm trying to get into the computer side of it. But I was driving my car earlier and it broke the U-joint, so I won't be able to work on it anymore today. But can I just get a file from a 3/4 or 1 ton and transfer the transmission tables?

 

No it's not that easy for changing the tune for the 4l80. Don't take this the wrong way but from your posts it seems your in over your head on the tuning part. I would never recommend using a random tune off the Internet on any vehicle. You spend all that money building something then don't want to spend another couple hundred on the most important part....a tune. I would get with frost or edcmat-l1 both sponsors on here and pay them for a base tune for your car and then you can just tweak and dial it in from there. You need a good starting point to tune from or it will be real hard to get right.

 

I'm going to school at NCKTC in Beloit. Now that my car runs, I can drive it to school and work on it. But I was planning on taking it to a shop to get Dynotuned and the closest one I found was in Wichita. And they do a lot of LS tuning. But if you know of any other shops that are close, I'd be glad to check them out. The car runs again after replacing the U-joint and the battery tested good. When I get to school, I'm going to check the alternator and volt drop the battery cables. But what will I have to do after I get a baseline tune? I know I need to study up more on just basic tuning, AFR and the different tables. I want to run it on a dyno just to see how it stacks up. But while I'm still learning, do you recommend a dyno tune after the baseline or should I just take it to a dyno first?

 

The way I work it, I sell "support" along with my mail order tunes. I set you up with a tune, and a config file or two, and give you instructions on what I want from you, what I want you to do. You run data logs and send them to me. I make changes and send you tune revisions.

If you're interested, send me an email for more details. Email addy in sig.

 

I sent you an email. But I fixed my MAF, I have the 5V Ref and GND switched when I put in the LS7 MAF card. But the tune is so far off, it dies when I touch the gas. So I just left it unplugged. But my battery was tested and it's good. It just need a good charge. Took the car on a 2 hour trip. Starts fine now. But I still only have 2nd and 3rd gear. When I put it in OD or drive it shifts to 2nd. And when I put it in 2nd or 1st, it shifts to 3rd. I'm guessing because I'm running the 4L60 tune.

 

I tried swapping the transmissions files from a 4l80 but it didnt help. I was able to shift into all 4 gears using the VCM controls on HPtuners. But 4th is first, 3rd is second, 2nd is third and 1st is forth. I don't know what's wrong. It slips a lot too. The shifter still only shifts between 2nd and 3rd in the same manner. Help would be appreciated.

 

attach your tune file

 

I'm hoping someone can find out what's wrong.

 

Do yourself one big favor you have a lot of time and money in the build. Take the car to a knowledgeable tuner who can have the car at their shop and tune it first hand. Leave it with them let them tune drive it tweak it till the tune is dead nuts on and you will have a great running car and not have to worry about grenading your fresh build.

Did you correctly modify the engine harness for the 4L80 swap?

 

I wish I could do that right now. This is my only car and the closest tuning shop is 4 hours away and quoted me $600. I don't have that money right now, as I just started my last semester of college. Within a month or 2, I plan on taking it to a professional. But as for the harness, I believe it is correct. I ordered it custom from a wiring company. I figured they wired it right because it had 2 VSS's, the correct PRNDL, and the harness was made to run on the drivers side, unlike a 4L60 which is on the passengers. But I'm going to check through the harness soon to make sure it's all correct.

 

It's not your harness dude. You're trying to operate a 4L80 on a 4L60 trans program. It'll never work, no matter how much tooning you do. You need to do a segment swap.

 

So you're saying I need to get a complete file from a vehicle with a 4l80 and then tune it for my car?

 

I would think its safe to assume there is not a mechanical or electrical problem if it shifts through the gears with vcm. I didnt study auto trans tuning much myself since mine is a M6 but Im guessing something should stand out. I will look through that tune after work tonight.