Can bad check values in the A.I.R. system cause these codes:
04-10-2004, 11:41 AM
#21
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Brook Park, Ohio
Posts: 363
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
FYI
I took the car out yesterday and after about 25 miles the SES light came back on. Atap showed B2S1- insufficient switching (?) and B2S1 - heater circuit were pending codes. It also showed a ton of B1S1 and B2S1 heater circuit codes in the freeze frame.
On a side note, the car seemed to pull better than it has been, but the WOT O2 data on bank 2 is still a lot leaner than bank 1.
I didn't have an opportunity to tighten all the passenger side header bolts, but I plan to as soon as I can get under the car. If not tonight, then next weekend I'm going to tighten all the header bolts, check the O2 wires for damage (burned, cut, etc.), and possibly put a new O2 in B2S1 and see were that gets me.
Just wanted to stay in touch. I let you everyone know the outcome.
Thanks,
Jim
I took the car out yesterday and after about 25 miles the SES light came back on. Atap showed B2S1- insufficient switching (?) and B2S1 - heater circuit were pending codes. It also showed a ton of B1S1 and B2S1 heater circuit codes in the freeze frame.
On a side note, the car seemed to pull better than it has been, but the WOT O2 data on bank 2 is still a lot leaner than bank 1.
I didn't have an opportunity to tighten all the passenger side header bolts, but I plan to as soon as I can get under the car. If not tonight, then next weekend I'm going to tighten all the header bolts, check the O2 wires for damage (burned, cut, etc.), and possibly put a new O2 in B2S1 and see were that gets me.
Just wanted to stay in touch. I let you everyone know the outcome.
Thanks,
Jim
04-16-2004, 08:03 PM
#22
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Brook Park, Ohio
Posts: 363
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I put a brand new 02 sensor, without the wire extension, in B2S1 and cleared the DTC's. After driving the car for approximately 15 miles the SES light came on. Now there are several P1153 HO2S Insufficient Switching Bank 2 Sensor 1 and one P0135 HO2S Heater Performance Bank 1 Sensor 1 codes.
Also, when I monitored the Ltrims and WOT O2's, Prior to replacing the O2, Fuel Cell 22 would only appear when the TPS was 100%. Now, after installing the new O2, Fuel Cell 22 shows up all over the place (not just at TPS = 100%). And Bank 2 is running leaner than Bank 1 during cruising (B1 Ltrim = -3.03, B2 Ltrim = -1.96) and WOT (B1S1 = 0.930, B2S1 = 0.891). Back in the day when the car was actually running well the WOT O2's were almost identical (Bank 1 may have deviated 0.005 +/- from Bank 2).
Any suggestions to what I should try next?
Thanks,
Jim
Also, when I monitored the Ltrims and WOT O2's, Prior to replacing the O2, Fuel Cell 22 would only appear when the TPS was 100%. Now, after installing the new O2, Fuel Cell 22 shows up all over the place (not just at TPS = 100%). And Bank 2 is running leaner than Bank 1 during cruising (B1 Ltrim = -3.03, B2 Ltrim = -1.96) and WOT (B1S1 = 0.930, B2S1 = 0.891). Back in the day when the car was actually running well the WOT O2's were almost identical (Bank 1 may have deviated 0.005 +/- from Bank 2).
Any suggestions to what I should try next?
Thanks,
Jim
04-16-2004, 08:55 PM
#23
TECH Apprentice
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Princeton, IN
Posts: 364
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Are you getting the codes in the bank that you replaced with the sensor?
These codes then that the sensor is not responding right… not switching back and forth from rich to lean… when the sensors do not heat up and stay heated up the sensor does not stay clean so it kinda blinds them… the heat help clean off carbon build up over time… now with the fact the sensors were not heating up these would be the next codes you get… now the sensor are heating up the car now finds that they are responding slowly.
At this point you have to be very careful because you could foul out band new o2 sensors… I have six bad sensors because when I figured I had the problem fix I would replace the sensor and 50 miles later I had another paper wait… and at $60+ each this can be a very hard lesson to learn. I was lucky and only got two new and started buying used ones and finally fix the problem and then replaced the sensors with new ones.
So basically the sensors you have in the car now are bad… the only good one is the one you just added… make 100% sure you have the exhaust sealed well, an exhaust leak will trash the o2’s again. This was the problem I had…
I'm going to PM you and then you can send me some of your logs and I will take a look at them...
These codes then that the sensor is not responding right… not switching back and forth from rich to lean… when the sensors do not heat up and stay heated up the sensor does not stay clean so it kinda blinds them… the heat help clean off carbon build up over time… now with the fact the sensors were not heating up these would be the next codes you get… now the sensor are heating up the car now finds that they are responding slowly.
At this point you have to be very careful because you could foul out band new o2 sensors… I have six bad sensors because when I figured I had the problem fix I would replace the sensor and 50 miles later I had another paper wait… and at $60+ each this can be a very hard lesson to learn. I was lucky and only got two new and started buying used ones and finally fix the problem and then replaced the sensors with new ones.
So basically the sensors you have in the car now are bad… the only good one is the one you just added… make 100% sure you have the exhaust sealed well, an exhaust leak will trash the o2’s again. This was the problem I had…
I'm going to PM you and then you can send me some of your logs and I will take a look at them...
