Some pics... first is the front sensor as I took it out. Last is all sealed up.

 

Also, theres an old trick I learned back when I was messing with my 3rd gens tracking down a knock issue... Bypass the knock sensor with a 100k ohm resistor to ground. You can do it at the rear connector, get a pair of 100k ohm resistors, plug one end of the resistor into each pin, and ground the other end. The point of the resistors is they mimic a perfect knock sensor and will obviously not react to knock... If you still get the code, then you KNOW that your problem is between that connector and the PCM/tune, as the knock sensors have been taken out of the equasion. If you don't get the code, then its the sensors fault.

You can get the resistors at Radio Shack. Just remember that doing this, you wont have any knock sensors so don't beat the **** out of if, this is only a temp thing for diagnostics.

 

I had BOSCH iridium tip spark plugs, they were gapped at 0.04. Replaced them with auto-lite standards and gapped at 0.035.
Replaced spark plug wires and changed oil from 1030 to 1040. With an 1/8th of a tank of gas left I put a 25 gallon LUCAS all purpose injector cleaner. These things were done all at once and within 40 miles the KS code disappeared. I would say it was the spark plugs and the gapping.
A guy working at autozone said fancy BOSCH spark plugs are known to throw random KS codes in chevy GM's.

I was hung up on the voltage characteristics of the knock sensors for a while. Turns out that there should be NO DC voltage coming from the PCM on the KS pins. The KS is signal only and should be measuring 100k Ohm when probing the disconnected harnass.

Good luck

 

Rob mine was pretty much like yours except for bank 2. The sensor was so corroded the plug on the sensor and harness were both pretty much disintergrated. So far so good I did seal mine with black rtv as well.

 

Exactly... for knock sensors, voltage doesn't matter because that's not what the pcm is looking for. The pcm only sees the resistance of the knock sensor, which is why I suggested trying the resistor bypass trick. The knock sensor is nothing more than a resistor that changes its resistance at certain frequencies. Its those frequency changes that are interpreted as knock or a bad sensor.

What it all boils down to is that the whole "knock sensor low voltage" code is whats really throwing people off here. It should really be called "knock sensor low resistance".

 

Also, got some good mileage on it tonight and as I suspected, were good to go, no codes! Runs really strong now, cant wait to get back to the track with it running how it was supposed to!

 

I had a very bad day yesterday. I was replacing the front knock sensor and while I was torquing it, the threads broke off. I spent 6 hours trying to get it out. I put a new sensor that I bought before and tested and 1 mile down the road, the ses light came on for P0327.

I am going to purchase one more sensor and replace it and go from their. I will try to do that next week.end and keep everyone updated.

Before I replace the sensor I will try the 100k ohm resistor first to manipulate the readings.

 

According to the Gear Chatter website, the knock sensor voltage is an input to the PCM. The amount of AC voltage is proportional to the intensity of the knock.

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic9031.php

I purchased some 100k ohm resistors today so I am going to give your recommendation a try.

 

Knock sensors aren't like a TPS for example, where the sensor is supplied with voltage, and it in turn returns that voltage to the pcm in the form of a reading. Knock sensors could be considered "passive" devices, in that all the PCM really sees is the resistance between itself and ground (hence only one wire). Of course there has to be voltage there, but the voltage isn't whats important, its the resistance.

Sorry to hear about the threads snapping off, that's crazy! What are you torqueing it to? Should be 15 ft/lbs which isn't much at all.

 

thanks, I torque them at 15ft/lb. I was waiting on my torque wrench to click and snap, the sensor snapped. Don't know why. I got the screw out but the base isn't pretty. It does have notches on the top where I was trying to get it out with a screw driver, by knocking it around. It should be fine though.

anyways, I will be trying your 100k ohm resistor trick, possibly next weekend. I am also going to get one more knock sensor and put it in to try it. I will keep this thread updated.

 

Good luck man, hope it works out for ya!

 

Anyone have any idea where I should start with this crankshaft sensor code? I made a thread but have had no replies.

 

Did you replace the sensor and what trouble shooting have you done?

Here is a starting point.

http://www.gearchatter.com/

 

So this evening I tried the resistor theory and soldered 100k ohm resistors to a connector that connects to the back of the manifold that goes to the PCM and grounded the other side. Started the car and I got both PO332 and P0327. Seen in the attachment.

I then reset the codes and disconnected the harness connector. I received
P0332 and P0327.

I connected it back and reset the codes and I only go P0327.

I then took my old harnes and cut the connector off of it and the oldmale connector that went to the PCM. I connected them to the exhisting connectors that are on the car and connected the end of the wires. I received P0327. I then reversed the wires and received P0332. In conclusion of this test, I beleive the new knock sensor that I installed is bad.

So I am going to buy another knock sensor and take the rear one and put it in the front since I know it works and put the new one in the rear port. I will hopefully get it done this weekend but I will keep every one posted on the results.

 

With both resistors connected, and after the original codes were cleared, you shouldn't have gotten any code. Remember those resistors mimic perfect knock sensors, with them hooked up and no other problems, there should be no codes. Unless Im misunderstanding your procedure... How I would do it:
1: with key on and ignition off, clear codes.
2: turn off key, plug in and ground resistors.
3: start car, wait for codes and go from there

 

This is excatly what I ended up doin and it fixed my problem.

 

FYI, I did exactly what I said i was going to do and the code came back as soon as the car warmed up and I hit the trigger conditions while my car was sitting in the driveway. I am going to take the heads off and inspect everything. I didnt change the lifters when I put the AFR 205 on but I am going to replace them while i am in there. I also will take the front timing chain cover off and inspect there to. Something has to be triggering this code. Hopefully i will find something, if not i am going to button it back up and delete the code.

 

What's the latest news on this? I have exactly the same problem and it's driving me NUTS! I'm afraid to take it to the dealer and have them charge me $1000 to change everything twice and then chase a broken wire or something . . .

 

nothing yet. Still in the progress of checking everything. I will keep this thread updated on anything new.

 

No good news as yet?