VTC_WS6

iTrader: (9)

Well you guys can add me to the list, P0327 and P0332. I just recently got my LS3 swap running and sure enough, every 2nd key cycle there goes the SES light and it always the same two codes. For the record I'm using the original LS3 knock sensors and a Katech knock harness adapter, however one thing I havent done is change the KS type in the tune from the 'resonant' LS1 type to the 'flat response' LS2/3 type. I'm gonna go ahead and do that today and hope that has an effect, otherwise I have no idea what the hell is going on.

EDIT: Changed the KS type in EFI Live, reflashed PCM... SES light returns, P0327 & P0332.

KissMyTushZ28

iTrader: (4)

I still have mine too. Could a ground strap or ground wire on the engine be causing this since it says, "Low voltage GROUND" in it?

dre211

Add me to the list of people this is torturing. I just finished replacing both sensors and the wiring harness like most of you, drive around a little with my laptop connected and sure enough, low voltage on both KS circuits. I recall at one point I had BOSCH plugs, really not sure what I have anymore, been a while since I've had time to do much on my SS. Guess I'll pull a plug and see what I have in there now. If I can fix this with a new set of plugs that'd be awesome! I really am not (nor is my wife who has to watch the kids) looking forward to removing the intake again.

KissMyTushZ28

iTrader: (4)

Well I got a friend of mine to just turn off the codes for Low Voltage with HP Tuners, instead of paying hundreds of dollars for an unnecessary tune. Check engine light is gone, has been gone, and car is inspected and clear. So good to go for now and KSs are still active, they just won't throw a code for Low Voltage.

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

Bringing back an 11 month old thread.... OP, did you ever get this figured out? I'm getting the same code and was doing some searching on here and got to page 4 and it just ended. I have the same code, but I ohmed my sensors and one isn't right, so I'm thinking I'm going to find some water and rust in that sensor since I probably wash the engine too much...

bmax

iTrader: (1)

Did the same thing myself a while back, maybe I'll pull the manifold in the future.

Brad

Ranger6202

I recently have been messing with Burst Knock on a friends truck. I just copied all my tables to his truck and it immediately started getting the same codes as you guys. I went back and reset his Max Spark Advance table back to his stock (mine was lower, -20), and then allowed for the Burst Knock to be triggered, but left all the multipliers and whole Burst spark retard numbers at zero. No codes since. Possibly something you guys could mess with to see if that helps.

Mathew Petrini

There is not a code for broken knock sensor. There are several readings , I know this will be long but reading this can save you either a pain in the *** sat afternoon or a pricey trip to your local mechanic if you are not confident enough to do this part swap. I call it a part swap because a mechanic understands the mechanics of the parts. Don't be parts-swapers be mechanics. I dont own a Chevy but I read every forum looking for a smart cure for a low input on a knock sensor on these motors. I found none and they made no sense to me. I joined this forum to pass this info along. Here are our key hints that led me to my solution. Hint one all vehicles that are showing these codes are exposed to high concentrated of moisture. and this type is sensor is waterproof. Hint two There is only One wire from ecu to the "knock sensor". Are any of you seeing the issue here? Also Gm recommends that you use only their pricey AC-Delco sensor...and that they "dont know why" but original ac-delco works when others dont. Well... Here it is, A message sent to a client with a low circuit knock sensor code---> Hey I am sorry I did not respond earlier, I have been elbow deep in a few projects, heads up anytime you get the top of your motor wet you are going to be at risk of getting a faulty reading at your knock sensor. All gm forums and 99 percent of mechanics will tell you its a failing knock sensor. This knock sensor reading is very very common in the 2000 - 04ish models and is particularly "sensitive to water damage" at least thats what the understanding is. But I couldn't understand how the reading P0332 was reading low circuit input. Well I decided to to look into this sensors workings. I learned that they used something called a pizeo-electric sensor,(what they use in waterproof lighters, bbq grills and navy ships) Its a group of crystals that when compressed release a very small .5 volt charge. The sensors are calibrated to frequency and when certain frequencies resonate in the motor it responds back to your ECU and adjusts the air to fuel ratio to prevent the "knocking" or resonance that is causing the pizeo-electric circuit to send a charge. Here's the catch, certain GM Models (yours) runs a only one wire from the ECU to the knock sensor, It sends out 2.5 voltz to knock sensor and if it has no resistance and it would get 2.5 voltz back because the negative charge of the circuit would not have been triggered, and even if it had, it would adjust accordingly (thats its job) So Here is the thing engine ground and chassis ground on these vehicle is crucial as ECU is not set up to pass current at voltage the engine is, the knock should have its own ground return line to ensure a similar grounds and not have faulty readings. But this system relies on the fact that the block and sensor are dissimilar metals which is fine until you add H20 to the mix, a very very negatively charged compound and also connecting the wires inside the sensor the iron ground of -.3 to -.4. So we send out 2.5 and receive back only 2.2 or 2.1. (low circuit input) As we remember the chassis ground showed.00 potential difference to negative cable when the engine had a small difference . Because if the pi-sensor was engaging it would be 2.0 not 2.1 or 2.2. So most assume the sensor is bad, not a ground discrepancy. Also with the ground variance of the ecu to sensor/block what was experienced was a ground loop, and causing other functions to not operate correctly such as clock timer and other obvious ground issues. If the area is given ample time to dry or was induced into speed dry via engine heat, and ecu was cleared by removal of both terminals, and a clearing of power within the vehicle via grounding, a chassis to negative terminal connection first and then the positive cable connected, then turn the key to acc position to engage the Ecu and thus linking the ecu and knock then adding the engine ground followed by engine ignition. This should re-calibrate the ECU to knock sensor, rectifying a Po332 Code. Also see any differnce between delco and aftermarket and why they dont work?

kjr6306

iTrader: (1)

This does not fix the problem....I have changed both knock sensors and the wiring harness and followed the process in the post above and am still getting P0327 and P0332. Anyone figure out a true fix for this???

Project_Reaper

Bump.
I'm having the p0327 code. It just started after I rebuilt my trans, not sure if I somehow messed anything up.

G8One2

Circuit low faults are cause by excessive resistance in that circuit. Pinched or shorted wires, spread pin, broken wires barely attached, corrosion or a bad ground can cause this.

mrvedit

Excellent suggestions G8One2.
Project_Reaper: Make sure you didn't pinch any wiring between the engine and the bell housing.

Project_Reaper

nah i double checked that, besides i didnt even have the bell housing off just the trans...im thinking it may be a sensor going bad that chose this ironic timing to do so...either way its already become a nuisance!

zTimbo

I'm having the same problem on my swap. Both sensors are new and my harness is from PSI. Mine throws code for both knock sensors after about 20 minutes. Everyone I've spoken to is sayin mine is a grounding issue. Mine also throws codes for both of my 02 sensors as well, which does make me think it could be a wiring issue.


Tuner said he wouldn't turn the knock sensors off. He also said he wouldn't be able to look at it for 8 weeks.

Harry05GTO

I have a 2005 GTO LS2 and I'm having the same issues, both knock sensors throwing low input codes. I've changed them both 2x and fixed a melted wire on the ds. I'm also at the end of my rope, idk what to do, any suggestions?

Vonrottes

Seems I've run into this problem on both my 4.8 swapped S10 and my dad's 2005 Silverado with a 4.8..
Knock sensors went out at the same time about 3 weeks ago both with P0332.


Replaced both sensors on both engines.
Mine was fine for about 3 weeks and then today (95F and no rain) it threw a pending P0332 going down the highway.

My dads truck repeated exactly what I did with mine and his threw the CEL after about 50 miles.


I checked the resistance of the sensors several times before installing:
in my hand top terminal to bottom bolt
in the engine, top terminal to engine block
intake installed female socket to engine block
All three tests on my truck showed 102kohm and 100kohm on my dad's

Has anyone found any way to actually fix these things?

I don't feel comfortable messing with the PCM and possibly resetting it due to...
having VATS disabled on mine for the swap... and I'm 90% sure my dad's truck also has VATS turned off since it starts with a stamped key

S8ER95Z

iTrader: (3)

Same issue again here, I "fixed" it once and didn't have any issues for 2 years. I'm close to disabling the damn things.

mice13

iTrader: (9)

Having the same problem here...trying to figure it out. Getting P0327.

Vonrottes

I MAY have fixed the LR4 in my truck..
after replacing both sensors and the harness, I repinned the engine harness connector have not seen the light nor had a pending fault for 1 week.

my dads truck I tried the PCM reset thing, but I'm not sure it worked.

68BBChevelle

iTrader: (12)

In for a fix too! I have the p0327 and p0332 replaced harness and sensors with ac delco torqued to 15 ftlbs. Any ideas.