reeperz28

iTrader: (1)

I tried to bypass my vats under the column, my key pellet reads 7.4 ohms and i mocked up some resistors to 7.46 ohms and.put one in the purple wire and one in yellow still no start..

What the car is doing-- turn key on everything comes on furl pump guages lights ect.. turn the key to ignite and guages shutoff does not crank dead.silence not even a.click. Battery is 11.7 volts and holds a load test, starter is good so is selenoid, all fuses ( checked with ohm meter and relays are good). It all leads to my vats.. security light was on since i bought the car in 08 didnt bother me car started fine for 30,000 miles that i drove it but now its doing this ..

What do.i need to try suggestions? Have a tuner tune out on pcm?

old93camaro

iTrader: (8)

can you jump the starter from the relay and see if the starter turns over?

reeperz28

iTrader: (1)

Just tried jumping the starter where power comes in to the other ones but nothing..

flame

iTrader: (13)

If it worked with the security light on then it is likely already tuned out in the pcm. Jumping the starter relay and still nothing indicates either a bad wire between there and the starter solenoid or a starter problem.

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

You have a bad ground connection at the battery, or a bad battery

With Vats issues everything on the dash stays lit up and works just when you turn the key nothing happens however all if the gauges still work and the security light stays on. My formula had a bunch of gremlins but I diagnosed the vats immediately because the security light stays on and nothing happens when you turn the key

sicksspeed

iTrader: (2)

11.7 is not a good charge full charge is around 12.7. Check voltage when attempt crank.

reeperz28

iTrader: (1)

Thats what a load test does for the batter it has enough juice to crank.
The security light was on due to something wrong with the bcm but still allowed the car crank and start fine. But now theres a problem with not giving the bcm/tdm the correct input voltage not allowing the car to start. Otherwise does.not give the ignition or starter relay a ground source when in anti theft mode. I made another thread on here and found out theres a yellow wire i.can ground from the bcm and will let me start the car..

reeperz28

iTrader: (1)

If anyone has any questions on how the vats system works here is some good information. http://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...d.php?t=227294

reeperz28

iTrader: (1)

Its not tuned out.in the pcm due to it was never touched before i had.it. I had frost do a mail order tune and i doubt he touched the vats without me saying to. All the vats does is tell the pcm to turn off fuel injection circuit and the bcm/tdm tells it to stop the cranking circuit.
Either way im having a friend (gm tech) fix the system for me... guess im gonna have to take another kick in the *** to pay this one. Rather than deleting it i just wanna do it right for when i get ready to sell someday.

flame

iTrader: (13)

You do realize that by jumping the starter relay you take all the modules out of the link. If your starter still does not crank then you need to find out why. Fixing VATS won't fix a starter............

reeperz28

iTrader: (1)

No i dont realize , i have diagnosed it down to the starter enable relay in the bcm thats is not allowing a sufficient ground to my start relay for me to simply jump it over.

sicksspeed

iTrader: (2)

That's right

sicksspeed

iTrader: (2)

At the starter relay you jump red, power, to purple. Does it crank? And is there power at red? If you answer these questions it will go a long way to us being of any real help or you can continue to take a attitude and we quit.

reeperz28

iTrader: (1)

Lol there was never an attitude people its typing idk how you can tell how my attitude over typing is beyond me sry if i came off as a jackass being that my car right now is the dd frustration takes over . So here were my steps i took..
1. Check all fuses with ohmeter then check relays ( used the relay tester at work-- john deere.
2 check for.voltage at red wire at starter . Took starter to work performed my selenoid test and starter both passed.
3. Performed a battery load test on my relatively new batt and it only dropped a volt so it passed. Started diagnosing on the cranking circuit.
Used my little schematic there to take.me as far as i wanted to go getting off at 5 pm and its dark by 5:45. Gets frustrating quick. Like post #9 says. Having a buddy loom into at the dealership and just get me going again. Thank for the input guys.

sicksspeed

iTrader: (2)

No problem, it does get frustrating at times. Just understand that flame and I are not able to see what you have done and we are trying to simplify the process. If you jump 12 volts to the purple wire for the starter relay and normal cranking is the results then you can eliminate the starter, battery and connections in one simpl

sicksspeed

iTrader: (2)

Oops.... Simple step. ( big fingers small phone) then you could now concentrate on the vat system side of the circuit. Just trying to help...... friends?

Dayhoff35

iTrader: (11)

i had a problem kinda like this vats wouldnt let my car start, bypassed it and everything. Ended up being a clutch position switch, threw that on there and it started right up.

Mrmooney

iTrader: (9)

Any udates on what corrected the issuee?
I was going to suggest clutch switch also.