I'm doing a lq9 swap with a ported LS3 top end into my LT1 car and keep getting told to go speed density. The only issue is I'm worried about the tuners in the chicago area spending the proper amount of time on it to make it perfect ( cold start and all). Are there any real advantages to going speed density?

If I was to stay MAF is there one that anyone recommends that is atleast a 90mm (5 wire) being that my TB is a 90 mm?

thanks in advance.

 

If you're worried about the tuner's lack of quality and attention to your car's tune, then it wouldn't matter if you're going MAF, SD or any other tune for that matter. A MAF tune requires just as much work also...you can't just slap it on there and drive away perfectly fine.

Thus, it's your best interest to find an adequate tuner in your area rather than beating yourself regarding MAF vs. SD. Then and only then should you really worry about the details of the tune.

 

Then why is it tuners charge more for speed density tunes vs MAF?

 

Because it does take more work than a MAF tune, but like I said it's not like a MAF tune is just plug and play...you still need to tune that also. So if you're worried that a tuner is not going to put in the proper amount of time and effort in your tune, then it doesn't matter if it's MAF or SD...it's gonna come out bad either way. Any tune requires a good bit of time to polish, especially on the street.

 

A SD tune does not take anymore time than a standard MAF tune if the MAF tune is done correct! The VE table should be calibrated whether you are running a MAF or not so to me a SD tune is only half of the tune.

At least this is the way I tune cars. They get VE table fully calibrated as well as the MAF. This way there is a full backup if the MAF malfunctions so the car will still run to it's full potential with the MAF disabled.

I just want to make a point that if the MAF is not a restriction there is zero power to be had from a full SD tune over a MAF tune. A standard 85mm MAF will not cause any power loss on a heads cam stock bottom end car. It didn't make but a 3-4hp difference on a 403 stroker with TFS235 heads either. So with that said I personally recommend keeping the MAF sensor whenever it's possible because it will give the PCM twice the power of providing the right amount of fuel.

 

which MAF do you recommend? I have a ported stock maf from my LT1 motor but I don't see how it wouldn't be a restriction in air flow. wiring don't matter as I have both connectors available to me whether it be a 3 or 5 wire maf.

 

Depends on your intake setup... are you converting and doing a air lid setup or are you going to keep the elbow pipe like the LT1?

If you are doing the elbow pipe I would use a LS3/7 card MAF sensor. It'll be no restriction at all and give you plenty of room to grow in the future. Keep the MAF away from the bend and throttle body though and look into the saxonpc honeycomb airflow straighteners.

 

Im going to install a volant i take with the oval filter. I would have loved to just reuse my factory lt1 ram air setup but the inlet of the lower box actually downsized from the 3.5" opening to a 3.5" x 2.5" before the filter.