Buckmaster

I have a 2001 c5 with an ARE 436ci Forged Stroker. For some reason the car CANNOT get tuned for the new 90mm FAST Manifold and 90mm TPIS TB. When started the car flashes to 3500rpm++ and holds it before SLOWLY coming down but still high.

When cruising and pressing the clutch in the rpm's RACE very high. So basically when driving, you press the clutch (foot off the gas pedal) and the rpm's go nuts. The idle and rpms are all over the place. Power is down bad too!

Anyone have any ideas? I can't believe tuning this combo has been this big a nightmare. The car is undriveable. Useless.

The car is at ARE right now and it isn't going well for the tuning. Just looking for ideas if anyone has any.
__________________

HumpinSS

iTrader: (1)

Have you tried idle relearn. I also nitice when the weather changes the RPM on my SS shoot up to about 1200 and then slowly come down. I does this for a week until it learns and stops doing it

xssive

iTrader: (123)

Sounds like an air leak in the intake path...

ChevyGoldfinger

Stock MAF?

Louis

iTrader: (7)

It is all in the tuning. We did a LOT of R&D on this with our TB before we released it and yes, it is tough, but it can be done.

Give Lou@ LGMotorsports a call. Also, We will be in Lime Rock CT for a World-challenge race which isnt too far from NY. We could gladly tune it for you up there


Louis

383ss

iTrader: (14)

just KEEP DRIVING IT. I just installed mine tonight and it did the EXACT same thing, I just kept driving it and it got better and better. if it does it shut off the engine and restart and it will idle like normal again. I shut off and started it at every stop I cam to and it worked itself out after about 50 miles. also put it in sixth or 5th when it does it to get control back of the RPMs'

Buckmaster

No air leask that can be seen or heard.............

Buckmaster

Yes, stock 85mm MAF

Buckmaster

Will the HIGH RPM's work itself out when the clutchis pressed in? Everytime I switch gears and press the clutch in the RPM's SOAR without touching the gas pedal

Reboot

iTrader: (5)

Take the tb off and with the blade closed, shine a flashlight through one end. I bet you have big gaps between the blade and the housing. I had this problem with a ported TB on my Z06. I did several Idle relearns, and evertime I started the car it would rev to 3500 again. I ended up removing the TB.

Buckmaster

Someone else mentioned this too. So bad quality of control then? I think I will end up putting my stock pieces back on. This isn't worth the frustration frankly. Thanks for the input.

Buckmaster

Thank you. I haven't done this yet but I sure hope ARE would check thngs like this. I have a feeling I'll put my stock parts back on. This isn't worth it. I'll never get my car back. What a waste of a TON of money buying htese pieces.....makes me sick...................

383ss

iTrader: (14)

no, put it in 5th or 6th and let the clutch engage. mine was doing the SAME thing initially. it's WAY better now, but not perfect. it goes up to about 2000rpms once in a while, but is livable and getting better.

Reboot

iTrader: (5)

Vette's and F-bodies are two different animals when it comes to the TB. Vette's have fly-by-wire and no hole in the stock TB. They don't compensate as well as f-bodies if there is a gap between the TB and housing.

BTW- I saw a 90mm FAST TB that was going on my buddies WS6. There was a gap so big between the TB and housing that I could have read a book looking through it.

Good Luck! I hope you get things sorted out.

Buckmaster

I hear ya. When i looked at where the TB and FAST Intake were bolted together there was DEFINTELY a gap. I inquired to them about it and they said they tested it and there was no leak. Which I found hard to believe because like you said the gap was HUGE. The top and bottom of the connection looked good but the middle "bowed out" (for lack of a better word) Very poor fit IMO. I am not happy with the set-up. But now I have spent the money....I am certain noone would be willing to refund my MONEY What a waste!!!!!

JZ'sTA

iTrader: (23)

This really sucks. Sorry to hear about the problems your having.
Someone posted they saw their buddies 90mm Fast TB and there was a hugh hole. I didn't realize these were out yet. Finally
Well good luck to you.

cooperhead

first thing to do is close the blade all the way and adjust the idle screw enought to keep it from sticking shut.before install the throttle body is to disconnect the ground from the battery.install throttle body car well figure the idle on its own and if necessary adust the idle screw to no more then 600 rpm

Bink

Vettes don't have an Idle set screw. Fly-by Wire.

joel

cooperhead

I INSTALL COMPLETE SET UP ON MY CAR WITH NO PROBLEMS AND IT MADE A BIG DIFFERENCE ON MY CAR.FIRST THING IS TO SET THE BLADE ON THE THROTTLE BODY COMPLETLY CLOSED BUT NOT WERE IT STICKS SHUT. NEXT THING TO DO IS DISCONNECT THE GROUND CABLE OFF OF THE BATTERY.DO THE INSTALL DOUBLE CHECK THAT AFTER YOU DONE THAT THE THROTTLE CABLE NOT HANGING THE BLADE OPEN.CAR SHOULD IDLE AROUND 600 RPM YOU LL NEED TO DRIVE IT AROUND SO THAT MAP CAN GET A NEW READING

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

Got to be some uncontrolled air there. Maybe blade
seating, maybe IAC (as implemented w/ drive-by-
wire) minimums need to be programmed different
as a bigger blade may make bigger gap for same
angle or whatever.

Then again this would not be the first time that
intake product fit/finish problems have dogged
early adopters... not saying it's so, just that it
can't be discounted out-of-hand. I would sure
do some propane testing just to ease my mind
before I started tearing it up.