Stupid Question
I have seen options for these gauges to be either electrical or mechanical
which are easier to install.... or work best etc etc
thoughts, comments....suggestions please?
I was under the assumption that mechanical gauges require the source to go right up to them (example, mechanical fuel pressure gauge needs a line filled with fuel to go up to the gauge, mechanical nitrous gauge requires a line full of nitrous to go to the gauge) ... so mechanical are great for short distances.. IE a gauge under the hood for tuning the fuel system, or if you want to mount them outside the car... but for internally mounted gauges I'd go electric ... electric gauges just use wires ... with a sending unit of some kind to translate the source into whatever signal the guage needs
in the transmission (the PCM knows trans temp
somehow) so you might not have to add anything
if you can get a gauge that's proper for 4L60E.
The water temp sender on these cars I believe
is kind of jacked, there is some kind of switched-
drive deal that happens once a certain temp is
reached and you can't apply a "normal" gauge
to our cars (?). So you would need to find a
second place to fit a sender or pressure bulb.
Most of the cheapo mechanical / pressure bulb
temp gauges are for SBC-style American pipe
thread, I think ours are some sort of metric?
Need to dig around on that one. The capillary-
tube mechanicals are not bad until you kink
the line one too many times and then it's all
over. Standard temp senders are not too pricey
(mass market) but the thread & spare-water-
jacket-hole stuff you have to work out.
You don't really want a straight nitrous feed
into the cabin and damn sure don't want fuel.
I sure wish there was a decent-priced fuel
pressure sender out there, I see them at like
$80 and up which seems out-of-line for what
it is. I guess high pressure senders are still
not at the SBC parts price point yet....

