Tuning with LS1Edit and Autotap, what to look for?
04-25-2004, 09:53 AM
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Tuning with LS1Edit and Autotap, what to look for? I don't have a wideband yet. What parameters should I watch in Autotap to use for tuning with Edit? More specifically what values for the parameters below?
O2's, Lterms, Knock, Inj. Pulse width, rpm, etc.
Does someone have a guide of what Lterms to aim for etc?
O2's, Lterms, Knock, Inj. Pulse width, rpm, etc.
Does someone have a guide of what Lterms to aim for etc?
05-22-2004, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Speed Demon
I don't have a wideband yet. What parameters should I watch in Autotap to use for tuning with Edit? More specifically what values for the parameters below?
O2's, Lterms, Knock, Inj. Pulse width, rpm, etc.
Does someone have a guide of what Lterms to aim for etc?
O2's, Lterms, Knock, Inj. Pulse width, rpm, etc.
Does someone have a guide of what Lterms to aim for etc?
LTrins should be slightly negative so they lock at 0 during WOT operation.
05-22-2004, 08:52 PM
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LTRIMs, TPS and Fuel Trim Cells -- log these, take the average from 4-19 FTC ... see if you're running rich or lean... tune the car until LTRIM average is 0 or slightly negative
WOT -- Log TPS and both O2s and KR... You want 920-930 or so on the O2s ... (not very accurate since they're narrowband, but they'll do if you don't have access to a wideband sensor) ... only do this tune when LTRIMs are locking to 0 or slightly negative during normal driving
Timing -- this is a little trickier ... the approach i've used in the past is I've logged my runs, TPS, KR, and Timing Advance... then go up 1 degree all the way across... if I don't get KR then i keep going up... once I get KR, I start removing timing in steps
For an aggressive tune you want to be JUST below the point of getting KR (IMHO)
For a safe tune you want to be 2-3 degrees of timing below the point of getting KR
this is just my opinion though... I'm a hobbyist
The injector pulsewidth thing... I know you don't want to be at more than 80% duty cycle but I forget the formula for figuring this out... I upgraded to 42lb @ 3 bar FMS injectors last year so i'm not worried about running outta fuel yet
so:
O2's, Lterms, Knock, Inj. Pulse width, rpm, etc.
O2 -- WOT 920-930
LTRIMS -- 0 or slightly negative (so 0 to -2.5 or so)
Knock -- always want 0 .. knock readings will KILL your timing advance...
Inj pulse -- i don't know the formula but you don't wanna be above 80% duty cycle
RPM -- whatever RPM the car's at at the time
WOT -- Log TPS and both O2s and KR... You want 920-930 or so on the O2s ... (not very accurate since they're narrowband, but they'll do if you don't have access to a wideband sensor) ... only do this tune when LTRIMs are locking to 0 or slightly negative during normal driving
Timing -- this is a little trickier ... the approach i've used in the past is I've logged my runs, TPS, KR, and Timing Advance... then go up 1 degree all the way across... if I don't get KR then i keep going up... once I get KR, I start removing timing in steps
For an aggressive tune you want to be JUST below the point of getting KR (IMHO)
For a safe tune you want to be 2-3 degrees of timing below the point of getting KR
this is just my opinion though... I'm a hobbyist
The injector pulsewidth thing... I know you don't want to be at more than 80% duty cycle but I forget the formula for figuring this out... I upgraded to 42lb @ 3 bar FMS injectors last year so i'm not worried about running outta fuel yet
so:
O2's, Lterms, Knock, Inj. Pulse width, rpm, etc.
O2 -- WOT 920-930
LTRIMS -- 0 or slightly negative (so 0 to -2.5 or so)
Knock -- always want 0 .. knock readings will KILL your timing advance...
Inj pulse -- i don't know the formula but you don't wanna be above 80% duty cycle
RPM -- whatever RPM the car's at at the time
05-23-2004, 10:45 AM
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you will probably see 120% + duty cycle if you are using stock injectors on that setup. I know i see like 110% at high rpm's.
85% is desirable unless you are tuning around static, which is not a bad thing, but is not as reliable as just staying out of static.
Roll about 5-10 progressive maps, work on one topic at a time as above.
flash, run/log it, stop analyze, if improvements are good, continue in that direction.
if not back up one step.
This is where a 30 second flasher comes in handy with road tuning. cops around here do not appreciate you sitting on the side of the freeway or in the nice neighborhoods playing laptop for much time.
85% is desirable unless you are tuning around static, which is not a bad thing, but is not as reliable as just staying out of static.
Roll about 5-10 progressive maps, work on one topic at a time as above.
flash, run/log it, stop analyze, if improvements are good, continue in that direction.
if not back up one step.
This is where a 30 second flasher comes in handy with road tuning. cops around here do not appreciate you sitting on the side of the freeway or in the nice neighborhoods playing laptop for much time.
