nick williams TB mod
actually, theres plenty of reasons to drill a hole in the TB blade....
the hole allows you to retain a better idle and off idle throttle response.
the bigger TB requires a lot of changes to the tune to get it to respond the same as stock...and even then, its not the same.
the biggest issue is that now you have changed the physical surface area of the space that air passes by when the blade moves...
think of it as a square number...
it might be a change from a 90mm to a 102mm...which is only 12mm...but thats a change in 144 square mm(12^2).
you can recover that 144sq mm by drilling a hole equivelant in size, and retain the throttle response down in the low rpm and just off idle...
you basically get back the proper air velocity needed for lower rpm throttle response.
My little experience with the 102 DBW TB's is to go the other way with the scalar rather than the traditional calculation. Then the adaptive routines, cracker & follower fall into place much easier. I've no issue's that the OP is bringing forward.
I'm always trying to find way's to improve the tune which is my interest in this topic.
the hole allows you to retain a better idle and off idle throttle response.
the bigger TB requires a lot of changes to the tune to get it to respond the same as stock...and even then, its not the same.
the biggest issue is that now you have changed the physical surface area of the space that air passes by when the blade moves...
think of it as a square number...
it might be a change from a 90mm to a 102mm...which is only 12mm...but thats a change in 144 square mm(12^2).
you can recover that 144sq mm by drilling a hole equivelant in size, and retain the throttle response down in the low rpm and just off idle...
you basically get back the proper air velocity needed for lower rpm throttle response.
My little experience with the 102 DBW TB's is to go the other way with the scalar rather than the traditional calculation. Then the adaptive routines, cracker & follower fall into place much easier. I've no issue's that the OP is bringing forward.
I'm always trying to find way's to improve the tune which is my interest in this topic.
the idea is to get the airflow curve back to similar to what it is with the stock TB....
think of it as an exponential as I explained earlier....
if its looking for a 90mm circle to open, and as you open that space gets exponentially bigger, then when you go to a 102, you've just made huge jumps instead of small jumps in airflow...(think Volume of a circle....)
if you have a 3.5" circle, you have (2 * pi * radius) an area of roughly 11 square inches
Jump up to a 4" circle, and you get 12.5 square inches.....
so a half of an inch in Diameter made a 1.5" difference in space...
when you get to looking at the blad profile opening, suddenly the difference between open 10% and open 11% on a 102mm TB is more like the difference between 10% and 13% on a 90mm TB....
3% doesnt seem like much...but its a lot when it comes to airflow and throttle response characteristics...
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I doubt that any hole in your blade will magically correct issue's outlined in your original post. Now that you have explained your combination it should start, idle, return to idle rolling or not with tuning.
Or if it as simple as drilling a hole I'm listening
I'm HPT so I can't help other than suggest posting up a log screen shot of the issue's with the pids related to your tune.
Can you find a different Manifold & TB set up to try, even stock? I Rx'd a brand new ported Fast 102 with damaged o'rings as shown, was very frustrated trying to tune a 243/247 114+2. I don't know how the damaged o'rings where affecting the tune but the car would pitch you out the drivers window below 2k rpm. The cam was a bad choice & I had already changed out before finding the o'ring issue. My current cam is 235/243 114+5, it runs decently, no issue's as you describe with yours.






