My builder said that he gapped my spark plugs at .35(ac delco iridium)and I told the tuner and he said it was fine, can that be what's causing it?

 

Anybody care to post their opinion if the gaping on my spark plugs(.35) could be what's causing my problem?

 

What code is it throwing? Gap seems a little tight...I prefer .045 on a non-N2o build.

 

The gap is not the cause, however you need to use a wider gap, 0.045" to 0.050" works good
There is something funny going on. If the car runs good for a while then starts acting up, you have more problems than just the tune. You need to do a datalog when the problems are present to find what is the cause.

I have tuned a few cars with the same cam you have, all of them had stalling and surging problems. I found those cams like a lean AFR and a few more degrees of timing to idle properly. They work better in open loop if the engine has LT headers but CL is possible.

 

I'm actually gonna check what code it's throwing right now I just got home from work, and I'm gonna open up my spark plug to the recommended .45 and I will see how that goes!!

 

Alright so I just scanned my trans am with my little brothers diablosport and here's what it threw at me:

Fault 1of 1
P0106 manifold
Absolute pressure
Range/performance.

Any idea what that means guys?? Thanks!

 

This can be fixed with tuning. I need to see a datalog from the car to be sure, but it seems the engine is making very low vacuum and it's tripping the code.
Under engine diagnostics there are 2 tables you can adjust to avoid this.
Drive the car a little more to see if it also trips a P0121

 

Ok I will drive it some more to see if it throws the p0121 code, and I was also reading that it can be a problem with the map sensor, so I'm gonna take the car to my builders shop this weekend and have him give it a go at my problem

 

Sounds to me like he doesn't know how to tune for drive-ability and idle that well. Getting numbers at WOT is pretty easy in these cars. But, getting a full tune and getting it done correctly is what separates the men from the boys......that is - assuming the car is mechanically sound (no vacuum leaks, exhaust leaks, etc.).

 

Went my my tuners shop yesterday and not my ses light doesn't turn on anymore, he checked everything on my car, sensors,vacum leaks etc...and he said everything is fine...he adjusted a few things for about an hour and it drives a little better now and won't always die at idle now....but now if I rev te engine at idle the revs will stay at about 1400 rpm's for about 10 seconds then start decreasing....I really don't know what to do anymore, I'm getting kind of frustrated driving back and forth just to end up with the same problem?????

 

Who is the tuner?

 

I don't really want to throw them under the bus because they're really good people and they have tried to do everything to help me with my car but they just can't get the tune right, I don't have anything bad to say about them personally they build and tune some crazy machines but they're just having a hard time with my tune.... It's RPM MOTOR SPECIALTIES in Santa Clarita, Ca