Hotwire

iTrader: (1)

No sir, I've been limiting myself to areas of the tune that are self explanatory or I have solid proof of knowing what to change.

As far as fueling I've been messing with maf, ve, and injector flow rate. I'm only messing with maf right now, but did add .5 m/sec to 95-100 map in injector flow to get my wot afr down to decent levels until I get to that part of the tune.

Mike@Diablosport

iTrader: (2)

Disabling the PE delay is like an instant burnout switch. First thing i would ever do to any truck tune.

If you told me I could only edit one param in any gm trucks for the rest of my life, I'd take the PE delay

Kill it, and dont look back.

Hotwire

iTrader: (1)

SIR YES SIR! I'll knock it out and report back.

Hulign

Watching this one closely...I have a Comp XR275HR cam in my S10 (similar specs) with 3:73 rear and having the same issue. Please keep updating this thread. I'm trying to learn more about the HPTuners setup I just bought but it's a lot to take in.

Mike@Diablosport

iTrader: (2)

Have you tried setting the PE delay to 0 seconds?

Start there.

Any update hotwire?

Hulign

Mine looks like the PE delay is at zero. I do notice that when I go wot from a stop my timing cuts in 1/2. The burst knock setting mentioned could cause that right? I have to read up on that next. Had to buy a different PCM because HPTuner didn't like the corrupt serial and would cost me 6 credits to license. Thanks for the advice. Will keep learning. Slowly! haha

Mike@Diablosport

iTrader: (2)

Yep, thats a good place to start. Be sure to disable the brake torque management as well.

Hotwire

iTrader: (1)

Not yet. Been running the current tune for a couple days just to make sure everything leveled out before I started cramming numbers back in. Hoping to get some time today to update the tune and try the PE delay settings.

Will definitely let you know once I give it a go. Thanks for your time and advice, it's greatly appreciated!

Hotwire

iTrader: (1)

Pe delay unfortunately wasn't the solution. I'm assuming it's just the cam, cheap *** converter, and all that weight over the 275 wide tires..

Mike@Diablosport

iTrader: (2)

Well, you're understanding the nightmare tuners deal with...until they try, people assume anything can be fixed in the tune, but as you see, the combo is key

As mentioned, be sure the tm stuff is disabled as well. Happy tuning

Hotwire

iTrader: (1)

I do understand and greatly appreciate you helping out.

Truck runs really good during cruise, idle, and wot, just burnouts and off idle transition are giving me a little trouble. I think once I get into the ve table things will clear up.

Hotwire

iTrader: (1)

Here's a stupid question.. Could lack of low end be attributed to needing a crank relearn done?

I haven't had a chance to check my misfire history, but all of a sudden I'm getting flashing SES and random misfire codes. Truck is running "fine" and the flashing ses doesn't stop if I let off the gas or change load / speed / rpm.. Just seems it goes on for a predetermined amount of time then goes off, sometimes leaving SES light on, sometimes not.

I have the 2002 flex fuel 0411 ecm, 2006 L33 w/ new timing chain, ls6 cam, etc.. never did a relearn, it fired up from the get go and I've been flogging it ever since.

EDIT: Have ltfts some what decent so I started farting around w/ WOT tuning since I'm going to be cruising with a buddy, got afr around 12.1-12.5, timing is DOWN to 13-17 advance, and my maf number tops out @ 320. That sound right?

AnotherWs6

iTrader: (17)

Mike, Jimmy Blue..... I'm a tuning nub and this has me intrigued. my 99 Silverado with a 5.3 is a total dog from a stop and barely half alive untill close to 3,000 rpm. What is a simple way of getting the things you mentioned tuned in hopes of waking it up a bit. I have no interest in making it fast, but down low its really bad. Like almost unnaturally bad, but its been that way forever. Anybody have a good, proven mail order tune for these things? Its just my old beat up DD at this point so investing in any type of tuner just doesn't seem worth it to me.

Sorry for highjacking, but these guys are hitting on some points I have never heard of until reading this post.

Mike@Diablosport

iTrader: (2)

couldn't be easier...

buy one our inTune or Trinity tuners.
Plug it in, load a tune.
Go do burnouts

This way, you can put it back to stock at any time, and even make simple tune adjustments if needed.

Hotwire

iTrader: (1)

I absolutely agree. Having a tuner keeps you in control. I've tried mail orders and its cumbersome. Especially if the tune isn't good and you have to keep shipping it back. A lot of people "love" their tune, but ask how many actually datalog afterwards.

AnotherWs6

iTrader: (17)

All of that is true, but then I have a tuner that is approachig the value of my vehicle. Maybe 7 or 8 years ago, but I wouldnt pop for one now. And I would rather have someone experienced do the tune. The things mentioned here that perked my interest are things i am zero percent familiar with. And with near zero mods on the truck and millions of them of them ouut there I am sure there are some pretty good standard tunes available by now.

Sorry for asking a tuner manufacturer about mail order tunes. Def my bad there man.

Mike@Diablosport

iTrader: (2)

No worry...but you'll spend at least 2/3 of the $389 intune price on a decent dyno or mail order tune, then you have no way to adjust it if needed, flash back to stock, datalog, or even read/clear trouble codes.

All in all, its a heck of a deal

Thanks

Hotwire

iTrader: (1)

This is true.

Drove down to Atlanta this weekend, HectorM52 and I did some datalogging trying to get this tweaked in some.

I just went in and 0'ed out the burst knock retard. It picked up a lot of low end, but still no burnout. It will just bulldoze the hell out of the front tires, so I've just got to come to terms with having too much traction. It's a new place for me.. It spins the tires over going into 2nd though.

We adjusted the shift points, brought them down so there's no lag in the power. Before I was just looking @ the datalogs and not paying attention to the physical aspect of it. On paper the truck was still making power but was loosing moment. Bringing the shifts down kept it pulling before/during/after shifts.

Hotwire

iTrader: (1)

After zero'ing out the burst knock retard the truck is spinning the tires going into 2nd and when under 1/2 a tank it's chirping the 275s going into 3rd @ 80 mph. Shifting so fast the fan belt chirps too.

Still have the flashing ses light / random p0300 code, BUT I'm ASSuming that's due to my trans not holding TCC. The ses light will start flashing as soon as it unlocks, so I'm going to be pulling the pan soon and throwing in either a superior or transgo kit for P1870 codes.

Mike@Diablosport

iTrader: (2)

Nice.
When you say it plows the front tires, you mean its literally pushing through the front brakes?
If so, I wonder if it just needs some fresh front brakes, or if there is a proportioning issue, where the rears are getting too much pressure...?

Tough to say on the P0300, should be something you canmake sense of with some more logging...

Happy tuning