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p0343 and out of ideas

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Old Sep 29, 2013 | 03:48 PM
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Default p0343 and out of ideas

I just started my turbo 5.3 swap s10 for the first time a couple weeks ago. As soon as it fired up I got dtc p0343 for the cam position sensor high voltage. The code would not clear...

I checked the wiring (Nelson racing stand alone harness) back to the computer and had good continuity. It has 11.9v to the sensor. got a new sensor and tried again and got the p0343 again immediately. Cleared it once and then got the same code along with p0342 for low voltage...

So I figured the cam bolts were backing off even though I was sure they were torqued right with thread locker. Pulled the motor apart today and everything was good. The timing set is a jp racing single roller that I have used on other cars with no issues so I don't think the gear is made wrong...

So I'm out of ideas. Is it possible something in the tune could be causing this? The computer was base tuned by RPM for speed density. The computer was the one in the running and driving with no check engine light truck the motor came out of so I'm pretty sure its good...

Any other ideas for where to look? I'm sitting in the garage staring at this heap and can hear the guys tearing up the local 1/8 mile
Old Sep 30, 2013 | 10:58 AM
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Forgot to add also that the tach that is wired off the computer output works fine and neither of the sensors appears to have made contact with the cam...

Thinking it might be the cam its self or the timing set sound right?
Old Oct 14, 2013 | 06:33 PM
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Bump for an update...

Pulled the motor apart and found no loose bolts. Took the cam out and measured it against a stock ls1 cam and everything is identical down to the thousandth of an inch. Put a new timing set in it to rule that out. Started it today and immediately got p0343 again. After running a while p0342 came in again too. The whole time the tach continued to work perfectly though

At this point all I can think is its in the computer? Is it possible that it isn't reading the signal correctly or something got fried when the tune was loaded?

I'm really stumped at this point
Old Oct 15, 2013 | 07:32 PM
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Are the CMP signal and return wires swapped...?

Is the tach running from the CMP signal...? If so disconnect it.
Old Oct 16, 2013 | 03:53 PM
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The wiring checks out on the plug and from the plug to the computer. I was thinking to maybe try swapping the signal wires to see what that might do...

The tach is wired to the tach output from the computer.
Old Oct 18, 2013 | 07:32 AM
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Maybe the gap between the cam and the sensor needs to be adjusted? Add or remove shims...
Old Oct 18, 2013 | 07:56 AM
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is you harness made for a front cam sensor or a rear cam sensor they swap two wires location when the cam sensor moved to the front and that could maybe be your problem as most stand alone harnesses are for a rear sensor
Old Oct 18, 2013 | 11:07 AM
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There are no shims under the sensor. I will try adding one to see if that helps, but the first sensor was the one that came with the motor and it was working without any shims.

The harness is made for a rear mounted sensor and that is what i am running. The motor is a 2002...
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Old Oct 18, 2013 | 02:42 PM
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OK I swapped the wires on the sensor plug. Code moved from p0343 high to p0342 low...

Thought then maybe it was a wiring issue that my voltmeter wasn't picking up. Pulled the entire cam sensor circuit pigtail from the plug to pcm pins out of an engine harness I had laying around. Using that I bypassed the harness in the truck. Still got p0343...

I haven't tried shimming the sensor up yet because I didn't have anything but thick washers on hand...
Old Oct 18, 2013 | 03:27 PM
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Not sure if you slaved a existing circuit to power a new one some of them are kind of sensitive that way. If you did, voltage drop would be a better way to check circuits because even a broken wire will show continuity with voltage drop you can find out if you have 3 or 4 volts trying to power a 5 volt circuit. Just a suggestion I thought about because corrosion or resistance is a pain in the butt..

Last edited by sargez28; Oct 18, 2013 at 05:42 PM.
Old Oct 20, 2013 | 02:15 AM
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Well live and learn. The new sensor I tried was a $19 ebay special that I ordered because I couldnt find one local at the time. Picked up another sensor at autozone just for giggles plugged it in and it works perfectly.

That should teach me not to be such a cheap ***
Old Oct 20, 2013 | 07:41 PM
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Good to hear.. I always go with OEM replacement parts when it comes to the sensors...
Old Oct 21, 2013 | 02:17 AM
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Originally Posted by ws6ed
Well live and learn. The new sensor I tried was a $19 ebay special that I ordered because I couldnt find one local at the time. Picked up another sensor at autozone just for giggles plugged it in and it works perfectly.

That should teach me not to be such a cheap ***


Does the new sensor work with the wires swapped or un-swapped...?
Old Oct 21, 2013 | 06:45 PM
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Wires were returned to the original position.

I usually try to use oe stuff too but like I said before I was being cheap...

For anyone that needs a cam sensor, the duralast I got had its own part number, but it had the GM part number on the body of the sensor so I think its the same sensor but at half the price
Old Oct 21, 2013 | 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by ws6ed
...

For anyone that needs a cam sensor, the duralast I got had its own part number, but it had the GM part number on the body of the sensor so I think its the same sensor but at half the price
That's the one you got at AutoZone (the one that works)...?
Old Oct 24, 2013 | 07:53 AM
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yes the one from autozone was the one that worked




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