decitions on Holley/ECU/Pro/???
At the end of the day I don't see it making sense spending an additional $1200 (after everything is said and done) on the dominator when in reality all I need is an additional wideband sensor.
I'm well aware of what the systems cost. Thanks
I dont know where you are getting your math...but if you are selling the dominator with harnesses for $1200 more than the HP, you are ripping people off...
when bought NEW....the difference between the Dominator and HP is about $700~$800 when you get all pieces bought
around 1600 for the HP, around 2300~2400 for the domintor(complete)
it can be gotten for as little as $2200...but you gotta really shop around and you may need to know somebody that knows somebody....
if he wants a 2nd wideband, he needs the Dominator
if he needs more than 4 inputs or more than 4 outputs, he needs the dominator...
its pretty easy to use them up...especially with a Turbo setup
and I personally would not want just a Single wideband on a twin turbo setup
he needs to sit down and figure out what he actually needs for wired inputs and outputs to determine that..
the thing the OP really needs to understand, is that when you by the HP...its complete, everything in the box...
when you buy the Dominator....
it needs all the harnesses
you need Power Harness, Main Harness, Fuel Injector Harness, J2A harness(if you want the 2nd wideband), plus any other harnesses you may want/need
when bought NEW....the difference between the Dominator and HP is about $700~$800 when you get all pieces bought
around 1600 for the HP, around 2300~2400 for the domintor(complete)
it can be gotten for as little as $2200...but you gotta really shop around and you may need to know somebody that knows somebody....
if he wants a 2nd wideband, he needs the Dominator
if he needs more than 4 inputs or more than 4 outputs, he needs the dominator...
its pretty easy to use them up...especially with a Turbo setup
and I personally would not want just a Single wideband on a twin turbo setup
he needs to sit down and figure out what he actually needs for wired inputs and outputs to determine that..
the thing the OP really needs to understand, is that when you by the HP...its complete, everything in the box...
when you buy the Dominator....
it needs all the harnesses
you need Power Harness, Main Harness, Fuel Injector Harness, J2A harness(if you want the 2nd wideband), plus any other harnesses you may want/need
by the way.....
you can save on some of the harness costs if you have the proper crimp tool and want to do your own wiring
all of the Holley connectors and pins for the connectors can be bought thru other manufacturers..
http://forums.holley.com/showthread....als-Holley-EFI
I bought the J4 connector for less than $7 thru Mouser Electronics
and a kit of 100 pins for less than $35
when you buy it as a kit from holley you are paying for the labor and time it took to crimp the wires they send with it and you are paying for the actual wire and pins they send preassembled
but when you have a bunch of extra wire left because you didnt need all the length of what comes with it, you can save a few buck by just crimping your own
you can save on some of the harness costs if you have the proper crimp tool and want to do your own wiring
all of the Holley connectors and pins for the connectors can be bought thru other manufacturers..
http://forums.holley.com/showthread....als-Holley-EFI
I bought the J4 connector for less than $7 thru Mouser Electronics
and a kit of 100 pins for less than $35
when you buy it as a kit from holley you are paying for the labor and time it took to crimp the wires they send with it and you are paying for the actual wire and pins they send preassembled
but when you have a bunch of extra wire left because you didnt need all the length of what comes with it, you can save a few buck by just crimping your own
I dont know where you are getting your math...but if you are selling the dominator with harnesses for $1200 more than the HP, you are ripping people off...
when bought NEW....the difference between the Dominator and HP is about $700~$800 when you get all pieces bought
around 1600 for the HP, around 2300~2400 for the domintor(complete)
it can be gotten for as little as $2200...but you gotta really shop around and you may need to know somebody that knows somebody....
if he wants a 2nd wideband, he needs the Dominator
if he needs more than 4 inputs or more than 4 outputs, he needs the dominator...
its pretty easy to use them up...especially with a Turbo setup
and I personally would not want just a Single wideband on a twin turbo setup
he needs to sit down and figure out what he actually needs for wired inputs and outputs to determine that..
the thing the OP really needs to understand, is that when you by the HP...its complete, everything in the box...
when you buy the Dominator....
it needs all the harnesses
you need Power Harness, Main Harness, Fuel Injector Harness, J2A harness(if you want the 2nd wideband), plus any other harnesses you may want/need
when bought NEW....the difference between the Dominator and HP is about $700~$800 when you get all pieces bought
around 1600 for the HP, around 2300~2400 for the domintor(complete)
it can be gotten for as little as $2200...but you gotta really shop around and you may need to know somebody that knows somebody....
if he wants a 2nd wideband, he needs the Dominator
if he needs more than 4 inputs or more than 4 outputs, he needs the dominator...
its pretty easy to use them up...especially with a Turbo setup
and I personally would not want just a Single wideband on a twin turbo setup
he needs to sit down and figure out what he actually needs for wired inputs and outputs to determine that..
the thing the OP really needs to understand, is that when you by the HP...its complete, everything in the box...
when you buy the Dominator....
it needs all the harnesses
you need Power Harness, Main Harness, Fuel Injector Harness, J2A harness(if you want the 2nd wideband), plus any other harnesses you may want/need
I've been doing a lot of thinking and unfortunately realized I need the dominator. I have sourced what I need for about 2300. I am giving a couple sponsors on here the chance to match a really great price I got from another website but I don't think its going to happen. Later this week I will be ordering it. This is what I have come up with so far
554-114 $1580
558-102 $315
558-201 (2) $82 - probably switch to the better O2 sensors
558-308 $50
554-101 $85
558-401 $119
I've been doing a lot of thinking and unfortunately realized I need the dominator. I have sourced what I need for about 2300. I am giving a couple sponsors on here the chance to match a really great price I got from another website but I don't think its going to happen. Later this week I will be ordering it. This is what I have come up with so far
554-114 $1580
558-102 $315
558-201 (2) $82 - probably switch to the better O2 sensors
558-308 $50
554-101 $85
558-401 $119
554-114 $1580
558-102 $315
558-201 (2) $82 - probably switch to the better O2 sensors
558-308 $50
554-101 $85
558-401 $119
its worth upgrading to the NTK sensors... they are much better and much more accurate
The following differentiate these two ECU’s:
- Wide Band Oxygen Sensor Inputs
o HP – One input
o Dominator – Two inputs
- The Dominator can control certain Drive by Wire throttle body applications, the HP does not.
- The Dominator can control certain Electronic Transmissions (GM 4L60/5E and 4L80/5E), the HP does not.
- Inputs and Outputs
o HP
2 high side (+12v) PWM or switched outputs
2 low side (ground) PWM or switched outputs
4 Multi-inputs
o Dominator
20 high side (+12v) PWM or switched outputs
16 how side (ground) PWM or switched outputs
6 speed inputs (magnetic or hall effect)
30 0-5v sensor inputs
13 Multi-inputs
- The Dominator has a “configuration input selection” pin that allows up to 4 calibrations to be selected with a key switch.
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Verdad Gallardo The following differentiate these two ECU’s:
- Wide Band Oxygen Sensor Inputs
o HP – One input
o Dominator – Two inputs
- The Dominator can control certain Drive by Wire throttle body applications, the HP does not.
- The Dominator can control certain Electronic Transmissions (GM 4L60/5E and 4L80/5E), the HP does not.
- Inputs and Outputs
o HP
2 high side (+12v) PWM or switched outputs
2 low side (ground) PWM or switched outputs
4 Multi-inputs
o Dominator
20 high side (+12v) PWM or switched outputs
16 how side (ground) PWM or switched outputs
6 speed inputs (magnetic or hall effect)
30 0-5v sensor inputs
13 Multi-inputs
- The Dominator has a “configuration input selection” pin that allows up to 4 calibrations to be selected with a key switch.
- Wide Band Oxygen Sensor Inputs
o HP – One input
o Dominator – Two inputs
- The Dominator can control certain Drive by Wire throttle body applications, the HP does not.
- The Dominator can control certain Electronic Transmissions (GM 4L60/5E and 4L80/5E), the HP does not.
- Inputs and Outputs
o HP
2 high side (+12v) PWM or switched outputs
2 low side (ground) PWM or switched outputs
4 Multi-inputs
o Dominator
20 high side (+12v) PWM or switched outputs
16 how side (ground) PWM or switched outputs
6 speed inputs (magnetic or hall effect)
30 0-5v sensor inputs
13 Multi-inputs
- The Dominator has a “configuration input selection” pin that allows up to 4 calibrations to be selected with a key switch.
Does the Key switch need to be ordered separately? I Think im going to keep a small acer laptop in my car so I can make changes on the fly
you have to turn off the car, switch the key position and then start back up again
you can do 2 tunes with any switch
I was told to use it as open for tune #1 and grounded for tune #2
Connector J3, Pin 17
the holley has nothing to do with the factory fuel gauge
and you dont have to run anybody's display...you can use all analog gauges if you want, or use the Holley gauges if you want
if you want to keep a stock looking cluster, you will need to purchase a 98 gauge cluster as they were 100% analog
but honestly...its FAR easier to just buy some autometer gauges if you wantto go analog, or use a combo of autometer gauges and Holley Gauges like I did.
the holley has nothing to do with the factory fuel gauge
and you dont have to run anybody's display...you can use all analog gauges if you want, or use the Holley gauges if you want
if you want to keep a stock looking cluster, you will need to purchase a 98 gauge cluster as they were 100% analog
but honestly...its FAR easier to just buy some autometer gauges if you wantto go analog, or use a combo of autometer gauges and Holley Gauges like I did.
and you dont have to run anybody's display...you can use all analog gauges if you want, or use the Holley gauges if you want
if you want to keep a stock looking cluster, you will need to purchase a 98 gauge cluster as they were 100% analog
but honestly...its FAR easier to just buy some autometer gauges if you wantto go analog, or use a combo of autometer gauges and Holley Gauges like I did.
I thought the only gauges you could use with the dominator setup where holley. I have some autometers I plan on running but was under the impression they have to run separately.
Also if im running the program on a laptop can I change my tunes on the fly or does the car need to be shut down and ecu reset?
the only gauges you can run directly from the Holley ECU are the Tach, and Speedo(if you use the transmission part on the Dominator)
you can use anybodys gauges if you have a sender for it somewhere...
you have two holes where you can put an ECT sesnor(one in stock location, one in the other head), you can take oil pressure from multiple places, battery voltage is pretty simple and self explanitory....
my speedo actually comes from my trans controller as the VSS sensor on the output shaft will be a direct reflection of wheel speed.
you dont have to use any specific gauges...you can use whatever you want....just like any car...
though the Holley Guages are pimp and make it very easy to set up almost all of your gauges as they can be anything that goes in or out of the holley
you can put your fuel sender signal into the holley, but theres no smoothing so its a very jagged response and its a pain in the *** to look at on the holley gauges.
so I took my fuel sender straight into the autometer gauge(which is programmable)...
I also take it into the Holley for datalogging reasons...because I can smooth somewhat in the logs...but its just for reference so I know how much weight I have on the rear from gas.
you can use anybodys gauges if you have a sender for it somewhere...
you have two holes where you can put an ECT sesnor(one in stock location, one in the other head), you can take oil pressure from multiple places, battery voltage is pretty simple and self explanitory....
my speedo actually comes from my trans controller as the VSS sensor on the output shaft will be a direct reflection of wheel speed.
you dont have to use any specific gauges...you can use whatever you want....just like any car...
though the Holley Guages are pimp and make it very easy to set up almost all of your gauges as they can be anything that goes in or out of the holley
you can put your fuel sender signal into the holley, but theres no smoothing so its a very jagged response and its a pain in the *** to look at on the holley gauges.
so I took my fuel sender straight into the autometer gauge(which is programmable)...
I also take it into the Holley for datalogging reasons...because I can smooth somewhat in the logs...but its just for reference so I know how much weight I have on the rear from gas.
as far as changing tunes on the fly....
as long as the main pieces are still the same, you can change on the fly...sort of...
you still have to disconnect from the ECU, load the file, and reconnect to the ECU...
but you dont have to shut off the car...
there are many many parameters you can do in real time on the fly as you go...
and some things can only be changed when the ECU is disconnected(offline) and then you write them when you reconnect.
a good example is that I can adjust the fueling and spark in real time
but if I want to change the end of injection timing, I have to disconnect from the ECU, make a change, and then reconnect
as long as the main pieces are still the same, you can change on the fly...sort of...
you still have to disconnect from the ECU, load the file, and reconnect to the ECU...
but you dont have to shut off the car...
there are many many parameters you can do in real time on the fly as you go...
and some things can only be changed when the ECU is disconnected(offline) and then you write them when you reconnect.
a good example is that I can adjust the fueling and spark in real time
but if I want to change the end of injection timing, I have to disconnect from the ECU, make a change, and then reconnect
the only gauges you can run directly from the Holley ECU are the Tach, and Speedo(if you use the transmission part on the Dominator) you can use anybodys gauges if you have a sender for it somewhere... you have two holes where you can put an ECT sesnor(one in stock location, one in the other head), you can take oil pressure from multiple places, battery voltage is pretty simple and self explanitory.... my speedo actually comes from my trans controller as the VSS sensor on the output shaft will be a direct reflection of wheel speed. you dont have to use any specific gauges...you can use whatever you want....just like any car... though the Holley Guages are pimp and make it very easy to set up almost all of your gauges as they can be anything that goes in or out of the holley you can put your fuel sender signal into the holley, but theres no smoothing so its a very jagged response and its a pain in the *** to look at on the holley gauges. so I took my fuel sender straight into the autometer gauge(which is programmable)... I also take it into the Holley for datalogging reasons...because I can smooth somewhat in the logs...but its just for reference so I know how much weight I have on the rear from gas.
So as far as fuel sending is concerned you an just buy any electronic fuel pressure sensor and use it? That would be convenient. Have you given traction control any thought? I'm seriously considering it on my car as the largest tire I can run at the moment is a 275.. 8-900rwhp 2700lbs and smallish street tires don't mix very well. I've been wondering if I could use the abs sensor on my r200 diff to use as a driveshaft speed sensor/traction control setup
though you can log fuel pressure in the Holley thru many of the 5v inputs
traction control requires the Davis Module...no other way to do it right now
if a 275 Radial and 900 HP dont mix, then you need some serious suspension work....
if you look at the x275 class.... those guys are doing 4.x in the 1/8th at over 200 mph on a 275 Radial at over 2500 hp on some of the cars...