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Surging, Stalling, And Dying After Long Tube Install

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Old 12-16-2013, 10:09 AM
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Alright guys ill go one over all the connections again
Old 12-16-2013, 11:46 AM
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Ok so i rechecked plug wires and injector connections and they are all good. I recleaned the maf and cut the zip ties holding some of the wires away from the headers. Ok so its still bucking but not as bad. I did however get a check engine light for the crank position sensor position A. Can a crank position sensor that works intermittently cause these problems. I am getting back fires occasionally as well. What should i look at next. The crank sensor was brand new when i put the engine in as well as the cam sensor. The only sensors that aren't new are the sensors on the throttle body. Could this be a bad tps sensor?
Old 12-16-2013, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Sinister_Z28
Could this be a bad tps sensor?
Sooo you have a code reader?
What DTCs is it throwing would be my first question.
Old 12-16-2013, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by dckmn52
Sooo you have a code reader?
What DTCs is it throwing would be my first question.
Yes i have a cheap auto zone code reader. So far i have found knock sensor low input. I have seen that a few times and it started showing up when i replaced the valley cover. I think i twisted the wiring harness for the knock sensors a little to much. It never turns on a check engine light but since i scan it every time i drive it i see it once and a while. I took the car out for a test drive this morning and it was bucking a little bit and then it died at a light. When it died it didnt just shut off it tried its hardest to stay running so it was trying to run all the way down to 300 rpms then it shut off. I eventually got it restarted and i had a check engine light.

So when i got home i scanned it and got the crank position sensor location A code. I didn't write down the number so i can't give u the code. But i rechecked some stuff then took it back out and it actually drove great then on the last half of the test drive it started bucking again

Last edited by Sinister_Z28; 12-16-2013 at 12:12 PM.
Old 12-16-2013, 01:45 PM
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Think i found the issue. Idle Air Control valve. I got curious and unplugged it and took the car for a test drive and it ran perfectly. So my question to u guys is. Will a v6 IAC valve work on a V8. They look pretty much identical and they have the same connector. The reason i ask is because a V8 IAC is like 90-100 bucks at NAPA and Autozone where a v6 IAC is 35. Any one ever tried to swap them?



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