Surging, Stalling, And Dying After Long Tube Install
#22
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: San Diego
Posts: 414
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok so i rechecked plug wires and injector connections and they are all good. I recleaned the maf and cut the zip ties holding some of the wires away from the headers. Ok so its still bucking but not as bad. I did however get a check engine light for the crank position sensor position A. Can a crank position sensor that works intermittently cause these problems. I am getting back fires occasionally as well. What should i look at next. The crank sensor was brand new when i put the engine in as well as the cam sensor. The only sensors that aren't new are the sensors on the throttle body. Could this be a bad tps sensor?
#24
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: San Diego
Posts: 414
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So when i got home i scanned it and got the crank position sensor location A code. I didn't write down the number so i can't give u the code. But i rechecked some stuff then took it back out and it actually drove great then on the last half of the test drive it started bucking again
Last edited by Sinister_Z28; 12-16-2013 at 12:12 PM.
#25
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: San Diego
Posts: 414
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Think i found the issue. Idle Air Control valve. I got curious and unplugged it and took the car for a test drive and it ran perfectly. So my question to u guys is. Will a v6 IAC valve work on a V8. They look pretty much identical and they have the same connector. The reason i ask is because a V8 IAC is like 90-100 bucks at NAPA and Autozone where a v6 IAC is 35. Any one ever tried to swap them?