autogeek23

iTrader: (13)

im gonna hook back up the TRG002 to only the crank sensor and try starting it . if it starts or not im gonna plug in the cam side also. update tomorrow.

but right now there is a 1x cam sprocket installed because with the 4x it did not fire.

autogeek23

iTrader: (13)

according to Motoralldata the wires are in the same location on the connectors. it would also help if i could figure out when my engine was made.

edit, now that i look at it. on a 2008 avalanche. i need to swtich the brn/wht and Red wires.

also what is the reference voltage for the crank and cam sensors for the 24x? it shows the 58x is 5 volt.

Exidous

iTrader: (11)

They are still 5v. You can remove the crank sensor and see or feel if it's a x24 or x58. The 58 will obviously have much finer teeth. Should save a lot of guess work without having to remove the pan. Just make sure you clean up around the port before you pull the sensor.

I've used the 1x sprocket and the LS1 sensor location with the LS1 PCM without issue.

autogeek23

iTrader: (13)

Walt on a 58x engine? An ls1 crank sensor and 1x cam sprocket?

I'm gonna check the teeth on my reluctor wheel first. I just bought an ls1 crank sensor.

I have the 1x sprocket in now. I'm glad the crank sensor is easy tochange

Exidous

iTrader: (11)

No it was all with the 24x. At long as your LT's aren't in the way the crank sensor is pretty dang easy to get too.

autogeek23

iTrader: (13)

Oh it's easy alright. Just need to move the starter. I didn't get to work on it Wednesday. Maybe Friday night if I don't go to the gym.

I'm gonna try hooking up the trg002 and starting it. Depending on those results I might install the ls1 crank sensor.

You guys think an ls1 crank sensor would work if my engine is a 24x?

Also is there any other numbers I could read of the block that would tell me what year it is. 12601900 gave me no good information searching online.

Jason Haines @ LPE

24x crank will only work with the LS1 type sensor. The early LS2 engines (2005 Corvette, 2005-2006 GTO, 2005-2006 SSR, 2006 Trailblazer SS and other 5.3 24 engines) used the same sensor as the LS1/LS6 (part number and color already indicated in an earlier post).

In terms of checking the engine, yes, if it was a take-out engine that wasn't modified by someone else you should be able to find the VIN stamp on the block (every production engine and other major vehicle component is VIN stamped for Federal anti-theft requirements).

autogeek23

iTrader: (13)

Looks like a 58x to me.

autogeek23

iTrader: (13)

So as far as I know, it has fuel and air. I haven't actually checked spark but the fuses are fine and its plugged in.

Just won't fire at all. Trg002 hooked up. Engine is timed right. Everything plugged in. Won't fire. I guess I'll get a spark tester.

Security light flashes. Think that matters? Pretty sure it's always flashed since I took out the gauge cluster when I had an ls1. It's ran with the light flashing.

autogeek23

iTrader: (13)

I'll get to work on it again Wednesday. The trg002 lights up red with ignition like normal then stays green while I'm cranking the engine over like it should. So no issue there. Maybe I'm over looking something and I don't know it

MMWS6

If you've got the gray sensor in there you can check that off your list. You've 100% got a 58 tooth there.. Did you disable vats 1 and vats 2 in the tune? Have you also checked to ensure the "starter checks" have been disabled? If your using HP, it's all under HP OS in your editor. What RPM are you seeing when you crank the engine?

autogeek23

iTrader: (13)

Well I had a local shop tune it. I can ask them if they disabled the vats and starter checks. I don't see any rpm when cranking.

autogeek23

iTrader: (13)

so now with everything hooked up im going to try and bypass the passlock. doing the resitor mod. maybe that is my problem. i drove it before with the security light flashing. idk why all of a sudden it would not start fro that reason

autogeek23

iTrader: (13)

I did the resistor mod. No more security light. All plugs plugged in. Fuses are good. Relays are good. No spark. Ses light on with key in they on position engine off. But my little pocket scanner says no codes.engine will make loud pop noises sometimes while cranking

autogeek23

iTrader: (13)

live and learn......

I now know that my 5.3 has timing marks for advancing the cam. on the gear on the crank there is 0-2-4-6-8.

as you know on an LS1 there is only a dot on the crank and a dot on the cam sprocket.

I somehow didn't see the other timing marks and only saw the 8. thought hmm that's a weird mark but its the only one so it must be it.

it never fired.

after looking it over so many times and noticed the other timing marks (thinking oh **** im fucked) I decided to pull my rocker arms off so I could time it to the right mark and pray. in the process of doing so I notice one of my pushrods on cylinder 6 is barely sticking out from the head. so I now I know im fucked.

I get a magnet and pull about half of the pushrod out. broke a hardened pushrod in half. as im on shock I notice my valve springs aren't sitting at the same height. yep all my intake valve springs are a little shorter.

I bent all my intake valves. broke cylinder 6 lifter tray. im sure the lifters got beat to **** with how much cranking I did when I didn't know the problem.

sorry for the crap cell pics




those are just marks on the pistons. not at all deep. good thing it never fired

I have yet to get the valves out because I don't have my own compressor. im gonna use a friends compressor tomorrow.

a friend of mine on here gave me a pair of 853's with valves.

I want to use those intake valves.

could I just lap them in to my heads if the valve seats aren't fucked?

im guess most of the responses on here will be get a valve job.

also with how those are bent you think the valve guides are cracked? im going to slide some straight valves in and out of them tomorrow to check. they should slide with ease amirite?

this is the worst mistake I have made with this car