Tuning changes to make when going from 4400 ft to sea level...
Tuning changes to make when going from 4400 ft to sea level... Hey guys, I recently moved from Southern New Mexico where the elevation was approximately 4,400 ft and it was extremely dry/arid. I now live in the Tacoma Washington area at sea level, and it's extremely humid/mild. I made no changes to my tune (which was not professionally done, it was done by me), however now the car has trouble idling. When cold it starts up fine and idles down commensurate with the coolant temp, but once it's restarted hot it will search for idle and sometimes die. Prior to moving, it would always start up and settle to 800 rpm with no problems. I have attached my tune file if anyone has a moment and is willing to look at it for obvious errors 
Specifics:
2000 Camaro M6, GMPP Hot Cam, BBK LT's/ORY, SLP Dual/Dual
Thanks for any help you guys can provide!!
Specifics:
2000 Camaro M6, GMPP Hot Cam, BBK LT's/ORY, SLP Dual/Dual
Thanks for any help you guys can provide!!
Do you have a MAF in there? You might need to adjust the fueling since the car was tuned for a certain oxygen density but now the engine is getting more oxygen with each intake stroke so the fueling might be off.
I do have a MAF, and I was considering cutting the VE tables in the 400, 800 and 1200 rpm columns by 65% 85% and 90% respectively to lean it out some, since it smells very rich and seems to act as though it's getting too much fuel. Would this be an appropriate course of action?
and I was considering cutting the VE tables in the 400, 800 and 1200 rpm columns by 65% 85% and 90% respectively to lean it out some, since it smells very rich and seems to act as though it's getting too much fuel. Would this be an appropriate course of action?
Second, going to a lower altitude usually leans the car out as there is more oxygen ingested and thus you should need more fuel not less.
You also shouldn't just adjust the VE table in big chunks like that as it's going to make it a very choppy table. You need to log the trims and then adjust accordingly and smoothly so that the table looks even and doesn't have huge jagged spikes or edges from cell to cell. Those crazy transitions make for a non-smooth driving experience.
you're right, I need to leave it alone and just take it to a shop for a dyno tune. It is frustrating because it ran so strong at 4,400 feet, that I was perfectly content with it as it was (albeit I am SURE there was power left on the table) but now, it's almost too much of a pain to deal with because you have to feather the throttle for about 30 seconds once you start it before it will settle out and not die. All with no changes to the tune!Well thank you for your insight redtan, I won't make any changes until I read up a little bit more on the topic.
