V-10 Killer

iTrader: (22)

Hello, I just finished rebuilding a LS2 402 for a single turbo car (1998).
So far, I've done the following:

• Downloaded the ECM file, and converted it to a 2-bar file
• Copied the Primary VE table up to 105 kPa, set everything above that to 175
• Copied in all the injector data I got from FIC for the new injectors

Is there anything else I need to do before the first fire-up as far as tuning goes?

I did switch from a FAST 90/90 setup back to a 75mm throttle body. I can't remember what tables I messed with to get the IAC tuned, as it was at least 6 years ago and I haven't been into HP Tuners at all in the last 4 years.
Comparing against my cars original tune file, I see the TPS Sensor Calc Airflow table is different in the "Engine Diagnostics/General" tab.
"The Base Running Airflow" and "IAC Park" tables in "Engine/Idle/Airflow" is also different, but I think that may need to be based on having more cubic inches than the original block.

I also no longer have a MAF on the car. I zero'd out the MAF Fail frequency, and set P0101, P0102, and P0103 to not set SES light.
Any tips or links to good threads on what I should expect for adjusting the tune to stay open loop all the time. I still have the front o2 sensors.

I just really need this car safe to do 100-200 break-in miles before I have a pro tune it. Obviously, I want to find an glitches now before it's burning up dyno time. I'm going to leave the blow-off valve off so I absolutely cannot get into boost while doing break-in miles.

Here's a copy of what I have so far:
http://www.v10killer.com/PreTurbo2Ba...VEPlusFuel.hpt

Thanks for looking.

TurboS10

iTrader: (12)

I'd leave the blow off on and remove the spring from the waste gate(s).

maroonls1z

Break it in hard on the dyno? Arnt you suppose to load it hard to seal the rings

V-10 Killer

iTrader: (22)

That probably is the smarter route to go. Less chance of running too many rpm's on the compressor. Thanks for the tip.

V-10 Killer

iTrader: (22)

I know there are quite a few schools of thought on that. I think it primarily boils down to whether you're running a roller or flat tappet cam profile. With roller cams, (and running non-synthetic or dedicated break-in oil), you're mainly concerned with seating the rings. And the rings seat relatively quick.
As long as you heat cycle it a few times, and vary engine load/rpm's above 2k rpms during your break-in, consensus is it's good enough.

Every builder has their own school of thought, and I'm sure I'll be wrong to a few people.

V-10 Killer

iTrader: (22)

I got the car to start first time out, got it up to temp and dialed in the idle stop. I'm getting ready to start VE tuning now. Other than the Low/High octane spark tables, what modifiers and other tables do I have to reduce to make sure I can run low safe timing during the break-in miles?