GM PCM Ignition Question
#1
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Hi,
I'd like to know if it's possible to use the Factory GM PCM to control just the ignition to the coils. Like if I had the whole setup running and then disconnected the everything fuel related would the ignition still be doing it's job independently? Could it be tuned to do this?
Reasoning: I'm running a carbed setup and I don't really want to spend $300+ on a garbage msd box so that I can spend another $300 to replace it in a month when it stops working. And $400+ for a Daytona box just isn't worth it for a basic 5.3 DD, especially when I have all of the factory stuff already done!
Thanks!
I'd like to know if it's possible to use the Factory GM PCM to control just the ignition to the coils. Like if I had the whole setup running and then disconnected the everything fuel related would the ignition still be doing it's job independently? Could it be tuned to do this?
Reasoning: I'm running a carbed setup and I don't really want to spend $300+ on a garbage msd box so that I can spend another $300 to replace it in a month when it stops working. And $400+ for a Daytona box just isn't worth it for a basic 5.3 DD, especially when I have all of the factory stuff already done!
Thanks!
#2
TECH Veteran
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As long as pcm can IAT ECT MAP crank and cam and knock sensor signals plus power and ground to the puter it should work normally. Fail the MAF so it thinks it's in speed density it oughta work. I would make sure it is flashed for a 5.3 calibration so the ignition maps are correct. At that point pcm sees all it's reqd input signals but doesn't have a clue it's not controlling the motor.
Last edited by 01WS6/tamu; 12-04-2015 at 08:46 PM.
#4
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Thanks. As of now I have the whole harness as a stand-alone. I can keep the IAC, IAT, and TPS, but is it possible to delete any of these? I know I have to keep the cam/crank/map but yes the MAF delete for sure and possibly the IAC, the less wires the better...
#5
TECH Veteran
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You can probably axe the TPS. There aren't any TPS/ ignition correlated tables that I know of. Ignition side is all based of crank and cam sensors with the other sensors making only minor adjustments to advance or retard. I've never seen what you are wanting to do with a OE setup. BUT I have money it will work perfectly with OEM reliability once it's done and some tweaks are made.
Personally I'm not a carb guy nor do I see the point by the time the motor is running with the ignition system and amount of computer controls needed to make just the ignition system work you are 3/4 of the way to perfect driveability. But I get some people don't like it or for some reason want old school look. It should all work I bet but you wont know till it's all done. That's whats great about all conversion stuff is putting in the time to be the first to pull off something.
Personally I'm not a carb guy nor do I see the point by the time the motor is running with the ignition system and amount of computer controls needed to make just the ignition system work you are 3/4 of the way to perfect driveability. But I get some people don't like it or for some reason want old school look. It should all work I bet but you wont know till it's all done. That's whats great about all conversion stuff is putting in the time to be the first to pull off something.
#6
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I'll talk to my tuner and see what he can do. OEM reliability is definitely what I'm looking for here. Originally I was gonna do the whole fuel injected setup but I just couldn't resist the old school look, especially since it's a '69.