Have a couple of codes on scanner
Last weekend I went ahead and changed the plugs and wires, still the same. WOT it runs just fine.
Bought a scan tool that arrived today and I have:
P0102 MAF Circuit Low Input
P0103 MAF Circuit High Input
P0351 Ignition Coil A Primary / Secondary Circuit Malfunction
I will deal with the first two later, but the P0351 is most likely the root of the problem.
Started to ohm test driver side coils all 4 seem within a few ohms of each other A-B 30+- A-C 30+- A-D 48+-
So I was getting ready to pull the coil rack off of the passenger side, but thought I would see if there is a link to check the wiring / ohms on the wires to the coil packs before I plug the ones back in on the drivers side.
Any other tips would be appreciated. Using a Fluke 87 for the test.
2002 LS1 Texas Torquer 3 and PRC / LS6 Heads
Last weekend I went ahead and changed the plugs and wires, still the same. WOT it runs just fine.
Bought a scan tool that arrived today and I have:
P0102 MAF Circuit Low Input
P0103 MAF Circuit High Input
P0351 Ignition Coil A Primary / Secondary Circuit Malfunction
I will deal with the first two later, but the P0351 is most likely the root of the problem.
Started to ohm test driver side coils all 4 seem within a few ohms of each other A-B 30+- A-C 30+- A-D 48+-
So I was getting ready to pull the coil rack off of the passenger side, but thought I would see if there is a link to check the wiring / ohms on the wires to the coil packs before I plug the ones back in on the drivers side.
Any other tips would be appreciated. Using a Fluke 87 for the test.
2002 LS1 Texas Torquer 3 and PRC / LS6 Heads
Well I guess I was just curious if anyone had some real input of whether I was going down the right track or not. New to the LS engines, I thought there maybe a better way, than the way I am doing this.
Anyway, I finished with the coils. #8 had the most significant change of them all.
A-B 40, A-C, 40 and A-D 72, no changes between B-C, but B-D & C-D has about 14 ohms different then the other coils. So the resistance average is about 12 ohms higher on B&C and 24 Ohms higher on D.
I realize this is not a whole lot since winding's change from coil to coil, but if anyone has had some experience in testing these I would like to see if there is enough difference to say that this is a bad coil.
Thanks in advance.
Well I guess I was just curious if anyone had some real input of whether I was going down the right track or not. New to the LS engines, I thought there maybe a better way, than the way I am doing this.
Anyway, I finished with the coils. #8 had the most significant change of them all.
A-B 40, A-C, 40 and A-D 72, no changes between B-C, but B-D & C-D has about 14 ohms different then the other coils. So the resistance average is about 12 ohms higher on B&C and 24 Ohms higher on D.
I realize this is not a whole lot since winding's change from coil to coil, but if anyone has had some experience in testing these I would like to see if there is enough difference to say that this is a bad coil.
Thanks in advance.
So I just swapped 1 & 3 and cleared the scan tool. Took it for a 20 minute test drive this AM and let it warm up. With scan tool in hand the only code I was getting was P0102.
Stopped to fill the tank and when I got on the 4 lane, I went to WOT for a few seconds and the code reappeared. It felt like I was running on 7, like I was before. So now I'm going to test the coil harness to see if I am getting the voltage / signals I need.
Any others that have experienced this, just let me know. I'm thinking either the ECU or bad wiring?
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I went ahead and added a signature for the basic specs of the car. I'm curious now if it is the ECU causing the #1 Cylinder misfire, or if there is something else to check first?
Thanks again.








