4l60e Clicking noise
4l60e Clicking noise Was not sure exactly what form to post this is so trying here.
Info:
88 IROCZ with ls1 and 4l60e
896 PCM
This is a new build and i have not started the car up yet. Just finished doing all of the wiring.
This is all with just accessory power on.
When i turned accessory power on the first time I did not hear any clicking from the trans. But that was with the stock tune of the 99 camaro ss Manual trans that the pcm came from.
I changed the tune in HPTuners to a 4l60e trans and copied over all the values for a stock transmission from a stock tune file.
Once it finished writing the file the clicking noise started.
I rechecked my tune and made a few minor changes and when it was writing the file it stopped clicking, but when it was finished it started again.
So my question is what makes that clicking noise in the transmission that is controlled by the PCM?
It is possible that i have the pins mixed up going from the trans to the PCM.
Video of the sound
Info:
88 IROCZ with ls1 and 4l60e
896 PCM
This is a new build and i have not started the car up yet. Just finished doing all of the wiring.
This is all with just accessory power on.
When i turned accessory power on the first time I did not hear any clicking from the trans. But that was with the stock tune of the 99 camaro ss Manual trans that the pcm came from.
I changed the tune in HPTuners to a 4l60e trans and copied over all the values for a stock transmission from a stock tune file.
Once it finished writing the file the clicking noise started.
I rechecked my tune and made a few minor changes and when it was writing the file it stopped clicking, but when it was finished it started again.
So my question is what makes that clicking noise in the transmission that is controlled by the PCM?
It is possible that i have the pins mixed up going from the trans to the PCM.
Video of the sound
As a test, go under the car and unplug the round 13 pin connector on the transmission on the passenger side just above the pan rail. Then put the key in the "RUN" position one more time and check for the clicking. If it is gone, it's something inside the trans.. If it is still clicking-look elsewhere.
Unplugged the transmission cable and the clicking stopped.
Went a little farther and was testing wires at the PCM if i leave Pin #47 on the red connector, which is the 2-3 shift solenoid circut wire unplugged then there is no clicking.
So it looks like it is that solenoid, do they click like that if they are bad, i am not familiar with them.
Went a little farther and was testing wires at the PCM if i leave Pin #47 on the red connector, which is the 2-3 shift solenoid circut wire unplugged then there is no clicking.
So it looks like it is that solenoid, do they click like that if they are bad, i am not familiar with them.
I honestly have never heard one clicking when it goes bad. They sometimes stick open, or closed, or the electrical windings fail causing the computer to set a CEL for the solenoid. Obviously faulty shift solenoids will cause a loss of gears, or wonky shifting, but I've never heard one clicking constantly like that.
Time to drop the pan. Usually the 3-2 control solenoid is retained in the VB with a clip that is put in place while the VB is off the trans. The problem with this is that now if you want to change that solenoid you will have to drop the VB to get the clip out the right way. It's okay to put the clip in from the underside (like the TCC PWM solenoid) so that you can service it in the future without dropping the VB.
Be certain that you get the correct replacement solenoid. If you OHM the 2 pins on the new solenoid it should be 20-25 OHMs. If it tests between 10-15 it is the WRONG one and you will have a CEL shortly after install. The connector on the wiring harness makes it hard to put the wrong solenoid in place.. Notice I did not say impossible, just hard. You may want to consider replacing the internal wiring harness while you have the pan down just in case it's the harness that is shorted out, and not just a solenoid issue. Harnesses are cheap at $35.. Really cheap if you just change out the solenoid, put it all back together, and then realize it was the harness the entire time. Once you get the pan down, as a test, just unplug the 3-2 control solenoid, and then do the key on test again to see if the clicking is gone. Yes, it will set a code, but you will at least know that you are on the right track.
Time to drop the pan. Usually the 3-2 control solenoid is retained in the VB with a clip that is put in place while the VB is off the trans. The problem with this is that now if you want to change that solenoid you will have to drop the VB to get the clip out the right way. It's okay to put the clip in from the underside (like the TCC PWM solenoid) so that you can service it in the future without dropping the VB.
Be certain that you get the correct replacement solenoid. If you OHM the 2 pins on the new solenoid it should be 20-25 OHMs. If it tests between 10-15 it is the WRONG one and you will have a CEL shortly after install. The connector on the wiring harness makes it hard to put the wrong solenoid in place.. Notice I did not say impossible, just hard. You may want to consider replacing the internal wiring harness while you have the pan down just in case it's the harness that is shorted out, and not just a solenoid issue. Harnesses are cheap at $35.. Really cheap if you just change out the solenoid, put it all back together, and then realize it was the harness the entire time. Once you get the pan down, as a test, just unplug the 3-2 control solenoid, and then do the key on test again to see if the clicking is gone. Yes, it will set a code, but you will at least know that you are on the right track.
Was doing more testing on the trans today, Using HPTuners i can turn on/off the solenoids. Here is what i find
With nothing selected i have the clicking noise
turning off the 1-2 solenoid the clicking stops
turning off the 2-3 solenoid the clicking stops
turning on the 2-3 solenoid the clicking stops
turning on the 1-2 shift solenoid it keeps clicking
Now im just lost heh
With nothing selected i have the clicking noise
turning off the 1-2 solenoid the clicking stops
turning off the 2-3 solenoid the clicking stops
turning on the 2-3 solenoid the clicking stops
turning on the 1-2 shift solenoid it keeps clicking
Now im just lost heh
I'm sorry I'm not able to follow where your diagnostic testing is leading.
You can drop the pan, turn the key on, and then physically touch each solenoid checking for the one that's clicking and then replace just that solenoid. Lot's of different ways to attack this issue but all will require that you put the lap top down, and get under the car, and dirty.. Remember, if you simply pour ATF directly into your hair before you get under the car everything else will go much faster with much less fuss. If you wait and let the car put the fluid in your hair, then you can expect everything will go much harder. It may sound like a joke, but try it.. You'll see.
You can drop the pan, turn the key on, and then physically touch each solenoid checking for the one that's clicking and then replace just that solenoid. Lot's of different ways to attack this issue but all will require that you put the lap top down, and get under the car, and dirty.. Remember, if you simply pour ATF directly into your hair before you get under the car everything else will go much faster with much less fuss. If you wait and let the car put the fluid in your hair, then you can expect everything will go much harder. It may sound like a joke, but try it.. You'll see.
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Joined: Jan 2015
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From: Fort Worth, Texas
Solenoids don't actuate themselves, They need power & ground to "click"
You can turn the 3-2 solenoid clip around with the valve body installed with an Awl or Pocket Screwdriver.
It sounds like the PCM didn't "take" the changes you made in the tune, USE THE SEGMENT SWAPPER & swap the Transmission segment & Trans Diag segment!!! Make sure BOTH PCM's have the same OS
You can turn the 3-2 solenoid clip around with the valve body installed with an Awl or Pocket Screwdriver.
It sounds like the PCM didn't "take" the changes you made in the tune, USE THE SEGMENT SWAPPER & swap the Transmission segment & Trans Diag segment!!! Make sure BOTH PCM's have the same OS
Dropped the pan and determined it was the 2-3 solenoid that is clicking. Put an OHM meter on it and it was reading 21oms which is within the correct range. For the hell of it i went ahead and replaced the solenoid as well and sadly it is still clicking.
Decided to test the wiring going to the PCM from the trans. I switched RED bank pin 47 and 48 which is the 1-2 and 2-3 shift solenoid grounding pins. SO the 2-3 shift solenoid Pin #48 clicks, but if i move the pin from #48 to #47 the clicking stops so that tells me Pin #48 has a bad ground in the pcm.
Also when i put a test light on the wire for Pin#48 when it was clicking it would then stop clicking, I assume because it was getting grounded through the test light.
So that would mean i just have a bad PCM correct?
Decided to test the wiring going to the PCM from the trans. I switched RED bank pin 47 and 48 which is the 1-2 and 2-3 shift solenoid grounding pins. SO the 2-3 shift solenoid Pin #48 clicks, but if i move the pin from #48 to #47 the clicking stops so that tells me Pin #48 has a bad ground in the pcm.
Also when i put a test light on the wire for Pin#48 when it was clicking it would then stop clicking, I assume because it was getting grounded through the test light.
So that would mean i just have a bad PCM correct?
Ignore all of that, the problem is fixed, Thank you for mentioning the segment swapper clinebarger, that seems to have done it.
I donloaded a stock tune file and segment swapped the transmission over to my tune and that did the trick.
And thanks to everyone else who helped!
I donloaded a stock tune file and segment swapped the transmission over to my tune and that did the trick.
And thanks to everyone else who helped!
Last edited by Rezorector; Dec 4, 2017 at 01:45 PM. Reason: typo
