Z06 Stops running shortly after warming up
02-05-2018, 07:41 PM
#21
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02-05-2018, 08:15 PM
#22
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Can you try zipping the file? It still won't let me download it.
It really sounds like its down to 1 of 2 things though.
1- Bad wire connection either at the plug, the pcm, or in line somewhere. I would just replace the entire wire harness to the crank position sensor. It's pretty easy to do, and you don't need a lot of tools, other than a good crimper and a solder gun. At the plug I would solder the connections. At the pcm I would check the pins in the plug for condition and security.
or,
2- the pcm is indeed bad.
It really sounds like its down to 1 of 2 things though.
1- Bad wire connection either at the plug, the pcm, or in line somewhere. I would just replace the entire wire harness to the crank position sensor. It's pretty easy to do, and you don't need a lot of tools, other than a good crimper and a solder gun. At the plug I would solder the connections. At the pcm I would check the pins in the plug for condition and security.
or,
2- the pcm is indeed bad.
02-06-2018, 07:23 AM
#23
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Can you try zipping the file? It still won't let me download it.
It really sounds like its down to 1 of 2 things though.
1- Bad wire connection either at the plug, the pcm, or in line somewhere. I would just replace the entire wire harness to the crank position sensor. It's pretty easy to do, and you don't need a lot of tools, other than a good crimper and a solder gun. At the plug I would solder the connections. At the pcm I would check the pins in the plug for condition and security.
or,
2- the pcm is indeed bad.
It really sounds like its down to 1 of 2 things though.
1- Bad wire connection either at the plug, the pcm, or in line somewhere. I would just replace the entire wire harness to the crank position sensor. It's pretty easy to do, and you don't need a lot of tools, other than a good crimper and a solder gun. At the plug I would solder the connections. At the pcm I would check the pins in the plug for condition and security.
or,
2- the pcm is indeed bad.
Zipped the file, hopefully you can take a look at it.
Thanks again for the help.
02-19-2018, 09:02 AM
#24
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Can you try zipping the file? It still won't let me download it.
It really sounds like its down to 1 of 2 things though.
1- Bad wire connection either at the plug, the pcm, or in line somewhere. I would just replace the entire wire harness to the crank position sensor. It's pretty easy to do, and you don't need a lot of tools, other than a good crimper and a solder gun. At the plug I would solder the connections. At the pcm I would check the pins in the plug for condition and security.
or,
2- the pcm is indeed bad.
It really sounds like its down to 1 of 2 things though.
1- Bad wire connection either at the plug, the pcm, or in line somewhere. I would just replace the entire wire harness to the crank position sensor. It's pretty easy to do, and you don't need a lot of tools, other than a good crimper and a solder gun. At the plug I would solder the connections. At the pcm I would check the pins in the plug for condition and security.
or,
2- the pcm is indeed bad.
03-09-2018, 08:09 AM
#25
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I replaced the PCM and it still does the same issue. Something Ive noticed is that if it shuts off and I leave the key in the on position, eventually the fuel pump will prime as if I had moved the key and if I were to start it after hearing that it will start. I am not sure if this means anything but I am at a loss of what to do next.
03-12-2018, 08:16 AM
#26
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Can you try zipping the file? It still won't let me download it.
It really sounds like its down to 1 of 2 things though.
1- Bad wire connection either at the plug, the pcm, or in line somewhere. I would just replace the entire wire harness to the crank position sensor. It's pretty easy to do, and you don't need a lot of tools, other than a good crimper and a solder gun. At the plug I would solder the connections. At the pcm I would check the pins in the plug for condition and security.
or,
2- the pcm is indeed bad.
It really sounds like its down to 1 of 2 things though.
1- Bad wire connection either at the plug, the pcm, or in line somewhere. I would just replace the entire wire harness to the crank position sensor. It's pretty easy to do, and you don't need a lot of tools, other than a good crimper and a solder gun. At the plug I would solder the connections. At the pcm I would check the pins in the plug for condition and security.
or,
2- the pcm is indeed bad.
03-12-2018, 08:51 AM
#27
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Originally Posted by VerdeZ28
I replaced the PCM and it still does the same issue. Something Ive noticed is that if it shuts off and I leave the key in the on position, eventually the fuel pump will prime as if I had moved the key and if I were to start it after hearing that it will start. I am not sure if this means anything but I am at a loss of what to do next.
03-12-2018, 08:58 AM
#28
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I was looking into this but I have to test the voltage to test the ignition switch. I haven't tested all the components that receive voltage through the switch but I did test the PCM voltage. There is a very slight drop, less than a single volt. don't remember how much. I was wondering how much of a drop is tolerable?
03-12-2018, 09:54 AM
#29
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I was thinking more like an intermittent bare wire grounding out type of thing. The pump reprinting "like you keyed off and back on" was why I thought that. Electrical gremlins suck
Not sure that 1V drop matters. With alternator at 14, you still have 13 at the BCM.
Not sure that 1V drop matters. With alternator at 14, you still have 13 at the BCM.
03-12-2018, 10:51 AM
#30
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Yeah I am going to check for continuity from the crank position sensor connector and the PCM pins that those wires lead to. We'll see what I come up with
03-12-2018, 04:43 PM
#31
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This is a head scratcher. You must have an electrical gemlin somewhere. Did you fuel up after midnight or something? Chasing wires sucks, but if it were mine, I'd try shaking the harnesses as it were running, as well as replacing any ignition relays/pump etc. They aren't too expensive, and could easily cause this. At least swap them around. The fans use the same relay pretty much, so you can try plugging that in the ignition spot. Hell on my car I had a problem getting it started at first, so that is one of the first things I did. I'm pretty sure it's still that way lol, with the fan relays in the ignition spots.
03-13-2018, 08:27 PM
#32
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So I tested the ignition switch following this procedure:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1568186703-post64.html
most voltages were the same as battery with exeption of fuse 16 and 13 in the engine bay fuse box and fuse 21 and 19 on the inboard fuse box. Those read slightly lower voltage, 11.89V instead of 11.93 at the battery. Ill test the wiring on the Crank sensor next and see what I find. But with these results I don't think its the ignition switch.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1568186703-post64.html
most voltages were the same as battery with exeption of fuse 16 and 13 in the engine bay fuse box and fuse 21 and 19 on the inboard fuse box. Those read slightly lower voltage, 11.89V instead of 11.93 at the battery. Ill test the wiring on the Crank sensor next and see what I find. But with these results I don't think its the ignition switch.
03-22-2018, 02:28 PM
#33
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So I wanted to give an update and thank the guys who helped me out on this. It looks like it was the harness going to the crank position sensor. Apparently when that harness got hot something was shorting in it causing the issue, but only when it was hot. I was able to replicate the problem by poking the wires going to the crank sensor while that area was hot, but it would go away once it cooled. Anyway, I cut out the crank sensor harness as far back as I could and installed new wiring. Car is driving fine now. Thanks again.
03-22-2018, 02:34 PM
#34
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Thank YOU for the update! That doesn't happen enough around here. Always good to hear positive results!
03-22-2018, 03:52 PM
#35
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So I wanted to give an update and thank the guys who helped me out on this. It looks like it was the harness going to the crank position sensor. Apparently when that harness got hot something was shorting in it causing the issue, but only when it was hot. I was able to replicate the problem by poking the wires going to the crank sensor while that area was hot, but it would go away once it cooled. Anyway, I cut out the crank sensor harness as far back as I could and installed new wiring. Car is driving fine now. Thanks again.
