Jfab

iTrader: (1)

Hey everyone,

I am new to hptuners and am trying to get my car to drive half way decent. WOT it drives very good, has good power, a little rich but runs good, nothing mid or low throttle.

When idling the car is running rich but wideband is showing lean, the plugs look like they are going to foul out.

If I blip the throttle it cuts out, when I put the car in gear it bogs if I try light throttle and get up to speed. If I go above 75% on throttle it takes right off!

Setup is stock ls1 5.7 bottom end
prc stage 2.5 heads
tsunami cam
ls6 intake
48lbs fic modified injectors
long tubes no cats
4000 stall
th400 rmvb

Any one have any input?

Kawabuggy

iTrader: (1)

Look at the MAF curve.. Is it supposed to level out like that at the highest frequencies?

Also, your VE table shows you will be VERY rich in the idle area.. Cams with over-lap will typically need to be LEANER than a factory cam in the lower RPM's.. At least that has been my experience. I also looked at your frictional airflow #'s and they don't jive with what I'm used to seeing. Maybe it's because you are DBW and your tune needs the extra airflow on start up..

It would be better if you could post a log showing exactly what is happening that you are trying to resolve. You say you KNOW that it is running RICH (and I believe that based on the VE table) but your W/B is showing lean.. Have you verified that you have the correct settings for the W/B in HPT?? The ground offset can be a big deal to get set correctly. I had to fiddle with mine for WEEKS before I finally got it to report correctly in HPT. Get the W/B to report accurately in HPT and then you can tune the VE table, and the MAF.. Then, you can work on RAF... Between those 3 tables, I'm willing to bet you that it will idle MUCH better. Also, have you seen this: https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...de-(w-pictures) That post will get you dialed in rather quickly.

Jfab

iTrader: (1)

here is brief log of running down the road, there is no speedo on the car due to trans swap. anything light throttle getting up to speed just feels laggish until I apply more throttle.

Kawabuggy

iTrader: (1)

Rich across the board. Both STFT & LTFT are both showing (-), negative, #'s which means the computer is pulling fuel trying to achieve stoich. You also have some other anomaly occurring.. Look at 8:12.. You can see that both banks are NOT following each other at all. Bank 1 is pulling massive amounts of fuel, and bank 2 is showing flatlined. There is some reason that the banks are not following each other and you need to figure out why that is. I would not waste time attempting to tune it until you can get both FT's to follow each other. The most common reasons for that type of disparity are vacuum leaks, an injector that is not firing, misfiring cylinder, bad O2 sensor.. I also do not see your W/B in the channels.

Hopefully someone smarter than me can look at the log and discern some better info. Where's 5F when you need him.. Paging 5F. 5F Please pick up the blue phone. I'm 1000% sure he will ask you to log some additional channels to get more relevant information. I'm just not sure which ones.

Jfab

iTrader: (1)

Good call on the o2 sensors, replaced them both, the left bank was all broke apart on the inside, something was rattling around on the inside. Car runs much better now. Read through the first attachment you posted, disabled the maf and took some out of the ve table, runs way better. I was actually able to cruise light throttle and get up to speed, wot pull cleaned up a good amount too.

I still have a lot of work to do on it, when it drops down to idle it sometimes stalls out. Once i get home and get my pc laptop i will post the logs. I do not have the wideband hooked up to hptuners yet. I need to do as well as hook the speedo up to the abs sensor so I can track mph as well.

I really appreciate the help! Made a huge improvement taking some out of the ve table and swapping o2's.

Log will be posted shortly.

Luke19901

gen3 PCM use the below strategies to maintain target 0% throttle target RPM. The strategies are triggered to enable and disable via road speed.

-throttle follower airflow
-throttle cracker airflow
-rolling idle air flow
-adaptive idle airflow.

you'll be able to see the enable and disable speeds that allow the dynamic shift in idle strategies in your file.

you have no VSS input so that leaves you (as the file currently is) with adaptive idle airflow strategy alone to complete the task of 4 strategies. a large aftermarket camshaft comes with its own set of requirements for air and without the appropriate editing starving required air will cause the engine to dip and sometimes stall. the airflow limits of the adaptive idle strategy are not broad enough to be able to maintain target rpm with such dynamic airflow.

throttle cracker, follower and rolling idle have the appropriate range and limits to maintain target rpm during rapid changes of dynamic airflow.

you need to decide weather you're going to try and use one of the broader strategies alone to attempt to complete this task and make the appropriate changes to the values within the strategy or you'll stick with just adaptive idle and physical add more air (open blade and reset TPS0% or drill air bleed) and reach a happy medium of idle speed corrected by a small margin of PCM controlled air volume changes, adaptive idle spark compensators and idle spark tables.

below is a 6.2 retro fit using gen3 PCM with TH400 trans and no vehicle speed input.

the throttle blade has been reset to 0% allowing more air bypass than usual and a warm idle advance of 14*. at 870RPM. using a mechanical introduction of more air with adaptive idle and idle spark corrections this car doesn't rev hang or stall and maintains an appropriate RPM at 0% throttle for all daily driving conditions