School Me on Throttle Cracker/Follower
I zerod out the delay and decay and it falls on its face now.
Can someone point me in the right direction? Or a guide to logging/tuning those areas?
Info on Car: 2003 LQ4, LS6 Intake, Injectors, Throttle Body, 235/251 113:LSA cam. T56 Transmission.
Tune File
Log File
zeroing out delay makes the decay start immediately, which means it reduces follower airflow as soon as conditions are met to do so.
zeroing out decay means once it does start decaying, it doesnt actually reduce the follower airflow.
the decay rate is the amount of airflow that is subtracted from follower airflow. lower number means less is removed over time so your follower lasts longer.
the delay is how long it will sit at 1500 rpm before going back to normal idle speed, so you can zero it out and it will start lowering as soon as you stop.
the decay rate will control how fast it reduces rpm, so you can experiment with higher rates to make it come back down faster.
I prefer to have mine run a little lower rpm, so mine will be 12-1300 rpm and i have the disable mph at about 5-6 mph so it starts decaying the air out before i come to a full stop if im decelerating slowing or in traffic. this way a hard/fast stop it will keep the motor going, and also if im coasting to a stop its less likely to 'cruise control' at idle
if you have a small cam with a strong idle, its a lot easier to get away with disabling it. its really handy once you get into stuff that likes to stall out when you push the brakes or turn the wheel at low speeds.
reducing the airflow numbers in the cracker RPM columns that relate at speeds above 0 would be a good spot to start.
increasing follower decay values will ask for faster airflow decay when throttle is closed.
its very likely the editing your idle spark tables in the 0.08g to 0.20g areas 1200rpm and up and using value like 8-16* as opposed to your 50* + currently commanded will all but solve your problem





