Introduction to HP Tuners for Beginners
I tried to add the graph to my HPTuners and had no luck, nor do I see where to actually add the numbers you circled? I'm a little busy here at work today, so didn't take a whole lot of time, but had zero luck
Last edited by rel3rd; Feb 6, 2020 at 08:42 AM.
Most of the time, the order for doing all this is:
1. Set RPM to a reasonable level so the engine runs well, typically gonna be a high setting to start.
2. Adjust RAF table to get enough air to run it
3. Adjust fueling to stoich (VE)
4. Adjust spark to drive MAP values down (more vacuum). When you stop seeing lower numbers, stop advancing it. Can be done in the scanner too and adjusted on idle spark tables.
5. Adjust adaptives, spark and air. Just adding in the % change in airflow is typically a good start point. These would be the Proportional (proportional RPM error), Integral (fine tune), and Derivative (fast acting change and stall saver).
6. Start lowering RPM down, repeat above as needed to stabilize it.
7. Adjust IAC as needed to correct dynamic vs desired error... THIS AFFECTS THE RAF.
Note with large cams, don't expect a 600 RPM to work too well. They are very inefficient at idle, so more RPM is needed to stabilize the engine and RPM.
I'm not saying you have to do all this, more throwing that up for others that might see it in the future as well. It's not set in stone as to the order, but that generally works. One thing that would help is if you could do an idle log, and make sure to add STIT (Short Term Idle Trims), LTIT (Long Term Idle Trims), and Desired idle RPM. That way we can see what the PCM is doing with the derivative and proportional airflow, and how it's acting with the IAC. Those are what physically control it based on RPM error. From there the PCM looks at the Base RAF table, then converts that number to effective area, which translates into IAC steps. All of that starts with error from RPM. If the PCM cannot reach a desired RPM, say like if you set the RPM at like 600 on a cam with 260* of duration @.050, it just can't do it. The counts will hit 0 at some point and you will see the "desired" drop down to like 2 or 3 g/s when the RPM is unreachable. This also has a lot to do with the throttle blade too... So as you see, can get complicated real quick lol.
So... All you really need to do is fix the Base Running Airflow (RAF), and then maybe bump the RPM up if needed a touch. Depends on the cam. Alternatively you can increase your idle spark a little to increase vacuum as much as possible. However you're already right about 62 kpa at idle which isn't too bad (mine idles at 70 lol, which is considerably worse).
Up to you on how to proceed with it. I've also found when you have that little ankle biter thing you're trying to fix, you might cause like 5 other problems trying to get it fixed lol. Sometimes it's best to get it to a good spot and leave it. Save your progress is all I can say with idle tuning. It's pretty hard sometimes.
Guess idle tune video will be coming soon... ugh. So not looking forward to that one. I'm still messing with math and formulas to actually figure out all the parameters at idle. No one seems to have any answers on that, formula wise. But as far as the conversion from RAF to effective area, it's basically: sqrt(step) = g/s, I think? Seems to work though, ish. Not positive as verifying this is really tricky, since the PCM will continue adding air over time as long as it sees an error. I've already dedicated hours trying to answer this today, that's as far as I've got so far lol.
Last edited by ChopperDoc; Apr 24, 2019 at 03:01 PM.
I made some tune changes, mainly in the RAF, Throttle Cracker, and Timing areas.
IAC counts look to be a lot steadier, and using the idle log info you posted, I logged my actual RAF, which is reasonably closer now.
Car is not all that radical...with a 6.0 and a 4L80E, along with a basic 228/230 585/585 112lsa cam, (900rpm idle, but hope to go to 800)
I attached copy of current tune and cold start idle log from this morning
Here is an idle vid from when I first did cam swap and did only minor tweaking
Last edited by rel3rd; Feb 6, 2020 at 08:42 AM.
I have had my HPTuners now for 11-12 years or so, but simply don't use it enough to stay current.
I'm going to do a cold start, in gear, datalog tomorrow (hopefully). If the numbers are as close as they are now...I probably won't modify it anymore...
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Thanks again ChopperDoc for educating us here on the board! My car has a hard time starting (have to to 2 or more long cranks when hot). LS 427 swap on an '99 F body Gen 3 PCM.
I'm hoping with this tutorial put together with my current level of knowledge, as well as whatever else tutorials you have coming up, that I can get it figured out once and for al..
Thanks again!!






