Need help diagnosing OBD port comm failure
Did some research in this area of the forum of things to look at. Cigarette lighter fuse and associated fuses looked good. I tried draining the vehicle of power to reset everything. That got the SES light off, but still no communication. So, I got out the multimeter and looked up the pinout diagrams. So on the OBD side, I had the following results:
2 - J1850 - tested continuity OK to pin 58 on C1 ECU. voltage comes out in the >1 mv range, though i see other threads say 3-5V. don't know if my digital meter isn't responsive enough or not.
4 - ground OK
5 - ground OK
14 - ??? “HS-CAN” “E&C” “CAN J-2234 Low” ???
16 - voltage OK, does not deviate from battery
So my question I need help with, is what does pin 14 go to on the PCM side so that I can test that wire for continuity? I think if that wire tests continuous, then it's probably a PCM issue. I've also seen where some threads and internet sources say this is for the ABS module, and/or not needed for OBDII functionality. Can someone confirm that?
I think if the PCM is bad I might order a new PCM and see how it does. The parts store says it's unflashed though. Any suggestions?
Thanks...
Rick
Rick
Also, while looking at parts stores, I noticed I could order a PCM next-day with one of two descriptions for $90 (saves the time and hassle of going to a yard for $30 more):
- Application: Flashed
- Notes: Remanufactured
Flash technology. OEM #12200411. Requires factory reprogramming
- Application: Unflashed
- Notes: Remanufactured
Flash technology. OEM #12200411. Requires local reprogramming
What's involved with reprogramming and being flashed/unflashed? Do I have to take that somewhere before swapping mine out?
Thanks.....
It helps to procure a replacement PCM from a derelict vehicle that is as close as possible to your target vehicle engine and transmission because less reprogramming will be required. Using an obscure 411 PCM from some odd, unlike vehicle would be doable but would require your tuner to perform additional "segment swaps" of what your target engine needs from stored program tunes in a library. All of this is achievable but the required skill level in your tuner person goes up. Cost goes up. Post tune, retune effort becomes more likely. Wideband O2 sensors for tuning help likely required and you REALLY need a local HP Tuners guy for this, not a mail order tuner.
Stick with an original GM PCM with your desired tune in it as close as possible for lowest risks. No matter what, it is absolutely required that with ANY new different PCM, some work with HP Tuners will be required to defeat the "Vehicle Anti Theft System" because that PCM will expect to see a different ignition key - no start - unless VATS is defeated.
Rick
If power and ground checks out ok. Jump a wire for the serial data to the correct pin at ecu. Thin see if a scanner will read out data. Ive had issues like this before with aftermarket radios etc. Couldnt get a read using hptuners. Esprcially with steering wheel and door chime adapters etc.
Ill report back with correct pinouts.
If u get a new ecu it will need to be a new flashed one to work correctly.
A used one will need the vats removed to be able to start (with vats it will crank and shut off) Any tuner can flash a base 4.8 tune into any ecu u get. Its pretty rare for a ecu to go bad.
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But yes, I agree, its rare for a PCM to go bad. Probably a wiring problem. Brandon's advice above is good - run a supplemental, temporary wire to the PCM for serial data and see what happens.
Rick
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) but I guess I'll cross that bridge when I get there.On the PCM failure being rare..... The history report for the vehicle shows it passed last time it went through emissions late last year, but yeah things can go bad anytime. I guess it's an excuse to get a mail order tune.
Does this truck have aftermarket stereo etc.? If so ive personally seen it mess with the serial data to the ecu. Last truck tht did tht with me i had to remove the ecu and tune it on my bench harness.
I should be able to take another look this evening if the serial data wire might be grounding elsewhere . That wire tests as continuous, but things can happen.
Can anyone confirm what voltage signal should be traveling on that pin? One older thread said 3 to 5 volts. I get about 400 mV, but that might be due to my auto-ranging multimeter not adjusting frequently enough to read the data signals.









