Tech 2 Chinese Clone
@CattleAc I've flashed BCM's, unlocked radios and programmed a couple of TCM's with out an issue. If you want to go newer then 2007(Yes they say it's 2008 but its spotty coverage at best) you need one that's got GOOD firmware or it'll get flagged by SPS. At least that was the case with the first one I had a few years back. The one I have now is one of the "Better Quality" versions and I have used it with the online software but I've only done it once. Once you have SPS installed and setup on your computer it's possible to use calibration files that are manually added into the folder SPS checks before going online to download data for a vehicle. SO if you know someone that's done a lot of flashing before they went to a pay per vin deal and they were cataloging all their flash files by vin or vehicle type it is possible to use those files with out needing to pay for access to get the files assuming you are able to find the files your after from a friend.
I need one of these so I can start swapping genIV stuff without having to use 4spd autos and 24x reluctor swaps. Be nice to use the 6L and newer transmissions and 58x tech along with BCM changes etc.
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Joined: Oct 2017
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Tech 2 won't do you much good with a swap. It only allows you to flash factory files and once your into the gen 4 stuff there isn't much interchangeability between years with OS's until you get to 2011 so you'd need the correct year PCM that matches the 6 speed to be able to even flash it and that's right about where the tech 2 reaches what its capable of anyways. You'll still need a way to disable codes, turn off security etc doing a swap with any of the 4th gen stuff.
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Joined: Jan 2018
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Can they flash the same firmware to the same module a few times, so we can sniff the messages, extract the data, and reverse-engineer the flash protocol?
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Joined: Oct 2017
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I think that would depend on the module. It would have to be setup as a "New" module each time but as long as that was an option for the module and it's capable of being flashed multiple times I would imagine it would be possible. What type of module is it your wondering about in particular?
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Joined: Jan 2018
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I want to be able to reflash the electronic brake control module (EBCM) in my C5. And so would a bunch of other people, I think... There's a thing C5 people refer to as "ice mode" where the ABS gives you a super hard pedal and will barely apply the brakes at all. The theory is that EBCM thinks you're on ice and limits braking to keep the car pointed straight. Naturally, GM insists that there's no such thing as "ice mode." But whatever they want to call it, it's pretty well documented by C5 drivers who race or do HPDE. It's not very common (I've never experienced it) but if it happens it leads to stained seats or worse.
Apparently it's triggered by abrupt braking, big brake kits, and tires that stop rotating faster than GM thought possible on pavement. (Lots of speculation, I'm not really sure anyone knows for sure.)
I'm hoping that if we can get the firmware, we can find some tables in it that govern how ABS works, and tweak them to prevent this. That might be optimistic but it's worth a shot.
Apparently it's triggered by abrupt braking, big brake kits, and tires that stop rotating faster than GM thought possible on pavement. (Lots of speculation, I'm not really sure anyone knows for sure.)
I'm hoping that if we can get the firmware, we can find some tables in it that govern how ABS works, and tweak them to prevent this. That might be optimistic but it's worth a shot.
There's a thing C5 people refer to as "ice mode" where the ABS gives you a super hard pedal and will barely apply the brakes at all. The theory is that EBCM thinks you're on ice and limits braking to keep the car pointed straight. Naturally, GM insists that there's no such thing as "ice mode." But whatever they want to call it, it's pretty well documented by C5 drivers who race or do HPDE. It's not very common (I've never experienced it)
Apparently this is quite different than just the regular "antilock brake mode"...???
I'm very interested also. I'd never heard of this.
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Joined: Jan 2018
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https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ere-a-fix.html
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Verdad Gallardo Yep, regular ABS is a good thing, "ice mode" is not.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ere-a-fix.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ere-a-fix.html
Yes, after a little "Googlefoo" tonight, I found quite a few posts on the Corvette forums about "ice mode"...
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 26
Likes: 6
From: Zephyrhills, Fl
I bought mine from SICOTOOLS and love it. I was having issues with EFILIVE providing me weird data that didn't make any sense, and I needed a scanner that would work on my 95 Burb's ABS as it is a redheaded step child when it comes to scanner support(tried a TECH1 as well as a snap-on, and neither worked on it). I also wanted to obtain some .bin reads, so I sprung for it. Other than the annoying reboots when you start the engine, it has worked AWESOME! It goes right into my 95's ABS no problem as well as working on my OBD2 stuff. The TIS2000 disc requires Windows XP or a virtual XP environment to function and the dongle crack to get it to flash, but it mostly works(mine will not work in pass through mode no matter what I try, so I have to connect the tech 2, scan the 3CM, then connect to TIS2000, load the tune, and flash from the tech2). It's more than paid for itself with the tune files I've aquired with it
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Joined: Feb 2015
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FYI - You don't need the auto bleed function/routine to accomplish a complete bleed on that truck. Use a pressure bleeder tank if you have it. Without a pressure bleeder, use 2 containers on driver side wheels first. I do driver side first because it's closer to the master while I watch containers and refill the master. 10 slow full brake pedal depressions should get bubble free brake fluid flowing. Don't forget to keep an eye on the master level. Sometimes, starting the vehicle to power up the ABS and power assist can help get a good bleed. Lastly, you can have someone pump 5 and hold so you can check pressure at each wheel.
FYI - You don't need the auto bleed function/routine to accomplish a complete bleed on that truck. Use a pressure bleeder tank if you have it. Without a pressure bleeder, use 2 containers on driver side wheels first. I do driver side first because it's closer to the master while I watch containers and refill the master. 10 slow full brake pedal depressions should get bubble free brake fluid flowing. Don't forget to keep an eye on the master level. Sometimes, starting the vehicle to power up the ABS and power assist can help get a good bleed. Lastly, you can have someone pump 5 and hold so you can check pressure at each wheel.
And when you bleed brakes you do right rear/left rear/right front/left front, Always start with the bleeder furthest away and work your way closer.
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Joined: Feb 2015
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If you can get your hands on an Autel Maxisys that should work for you. I guess I've been lucky since I've flushed 100s of vehicles over the last 44yrs. Most often started on the driver side too and manual bled.
Surely, those with lines higher than the master or ABS with an accumulator on the HCU are more of a challenge and usually require an automated bleeder routine to effectively get them done.
Side note - Using the scan tool bleeder routine typically has you start at the RF and go around clockwise and finish with LF. Never heard anyone effectively explain "why" start bleeding at the farthest wheel. Not like you're going to push air down a line that you already bled unless the bleeder is opened in that circuit. Just some thoughts. Good luck.
Surely, those with lines higher than the master or ABS with an accumulator on the HCU are more of a challenge and usually require an automated bleeder routine to effectively get them done.
Side note - Using the scan tool bleeder routine typically has you start at the RF and go around clockwise and finish with LF. Never heard anyone effectively explain "why" start bleeding at the farthest wheel. Not like you're going to push air down a line that you already bled unless the bleeder is opened in that circuit. Just some thoughts. Good luck.
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2024
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Not tool related I noticed alot of folks here have gm cars if i may ask does anyone know what parts can go bad that throw traction control light off and message on dtc it comes and goes some days stays gone all day some days comes back minutes after reseting system i checked live data for abs sensors and all 4 were working i do have brand new ones in case i have to replace but id like to know what other parts can cause that message to appear my brake fluid level is on point i read that can cause it to come on too sorry if im in wrong area asking i dont get no response on other forums and even when i do its someone quick to bash .