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Idle Operation Part 1

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Old 11-27-2004, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Bink
My guess is look at your "Throttle Cracker" table - too much airflow above 5mph. If your Idle AirFlow (RAF) is too high it will hand until the car stops. Hope this helps some.
Thanks Bink. I was wondering if that is where it was. My throttle cracker table is set to stock levels too. So you're saying I should lower the values in lets say the 0-36mph up to 1600rpm cells? What happens if they are at 0?

I was also wondering if it could be linked to my MAF Calibration table throwing everything off. It too is still at stock values even tho I have billet MAF ends & a ported TB. Tho I didn't have this problem until I added the cam.

Last edited by WAHUSKER; 11-27-2004 at 12:14 PM.
Old 11-27-2004, 12:12 PM
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Did they "Zero Out" your Throttle Cracker Decay table????
Old 11-27-2004, 12:21 PM
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No, but I was wondering if that was the thing to do in those cells. Like I said it's all stock right now. (as are all the throttle follower tables)

My Throttle Cracker Table
400rpm 1000 1600
0mph 0 0 0.2
4mph 1 0 0.6
8mph 0 0 0.65
12mph 0 0 0.7
16mph 0.4 0.5 0.7
20mph 0.4 0.5 0.8
24mph 0.5 0.55 0.8
28mph 0.5 0.6 0.9
32mph 0.6 0.65 0.9
36mph 0.65 0.65 2
Old 11-27-2004, 01:11 PM
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No, I wouldn't zero them out. Does it cruise indefdinitely with the throttle closed - i.e. no decay whatsoever?? If so, then I would try reducing the Throttle Cracker Airflow by 15% 2000RPM, 36 mph and down. Leave the 1.000 island, at 400 RPM and 4 mph, alone - don't change it. Take it out and see how it does - scan it.
Old 11-27-2004, 02:08 PM
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OK, Ill try that. Thanks! The 1 @ 400rpm is so it doesn't stall, correct?
Old 11-27-2004, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by WAHUSKER
The 1 @ 400rpm is so it doesn't stall, correct?
That's my take on it ... it needs additional airflow at 400 -800 rpm and > 0 -4 mph. You may need to reduce this some, also - eventually.
Old 11-27-2004, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Another_User
So basically, there is a conversion for g/sec to IAC counts, yes? Because it makes no sense to me that Running Airflow would be the same no matter what you drill your throttle body to, or how you change your set screw. Because making those changes instead of changing Running Airflow works. So is there some conversion, so you can log your actual IAC counts and correct your Running Airflow table? Or is there some variable we cannot change yet, like Airflow vs. Actual IAC Position?
I have been looking over my logs, and it looks like each IAC count equals .1 g/sec. It starts to stray a little once my car is warm, probably because my running airflow is way higher than it needs to be. gameover...any comments?
Old 11-28-2004, 12:06 AM
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from my post


After the "Desired Idle Airflow" is calculted , it is then translated into an "Effective area" value in square millimeters (mm2). This is the cross sectional area required to deliver the airflow desired (taking into account air density and pressure ratio across the throttle/IAC). Now at this point the calculation branches to either IAC or ETC.

If IAC is installed the "Effective Area" is translated into a number of "steps" that delivers this area (a table of IAC Steps vs. Effective Area).

If ETC is installed then there is a single value that translates "Effective Area" into "Desired throttle area percent" units of % area per mm2. This number is then handed over to the ETC routines that control the ETC TPS %.
Old 11-28-2004, 07:10 AM
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But that doesn't take the idle hole or set screw into account? I don't see where it "subtracts" this, because it would have to in order to effectively use the running airflow table. So is there a value that is set for "base airflow (non-iac/etc controlled)"? If there isn't, then running airflow can't be measured in airflow, it would have to be in steps.

Originally Posted by gameover
Yeah the adaptive idle (RPM learn) would learn you back, but you could be hitting the adaptive limits. In anycase setting your base Running Airflow lower would fix it...
Like here, his airflow requirements at idle didn't change, but you recommend that he set back his running airflow to account for more flow of the throttle body...

My point is, based on what you say, if the running airflow is right, then there is nothing to trim, regardless of what changes you made to the throttle body. Unless there is a "base airflow non-iac/etc controlled", or the "running airflow" is actually measured in counts.

Last edited by Another_User; 11-28-2004 at 07:25 AM.
Old 11-28-2004, 07:27 AM
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it doesn't care, this the calibration of the IAC. ie. how much airflow thru the IAC do i need to move the engine RPM up or down.

The hole in the TB (or set screw) just adjusts the IAC dynamic range to be "useful". eg. if you want to idle your engine at 1100 RPM it's probably not a good idea to burn ~200 steps of your IAC to get your idle RPM, leaving you only 110 for "adjustment". Far better to drill the blade or adjust the set screw to give you IAC counts in a much lower range at idle.

Chris...
Old 11-28-2004, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by gameover
it doesn't care, this the calibration of the IAC. ie. how much airflow thru the IAC do i need to move the engine RPM up or down.

The hole in the TB (or set screw) just adjusts the IAC dynamic range to be "useful". eg. if you want to idle your engine at 1100 RPM it's probably not a good idea to burn ~200 steps of your IAC to get your idle RPM, leaving you only 110 for "adjustment". Far better to drill the blade or adjust the set screw to give you IAC counts in a much lower range at idle.

Chris...
Aha. So the value is only the amount of air that should be flowing through the IAC. That's what I wasn't sure about...I haven't had much luck treating it as just IAC running airflow. For instance; when my car is cold I see idle airflow of about 13 g/sec and my desired idle airflow is about 14.5 g/sec with 145 IAC steps, with a stable idle. Is this an issue with 98 vehicles like mine?
Old 11-28-2004, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Another_User
Aha. So the value is only the amount of air that should be flowing through the IAC. That's what I wasn't sure about...I haven't had much luck treating it as just IAC running airflow. For instance; when my car is cold I see idle airflow of about 13 g/sec and my desired idle airflow is about 14.5 g/sec with 145 IAC steps, with a stable idle. Is this an issue with 98 vehicles like mine?
hard to tell, could be your IAC is clogged up a bit and has to open more to get the same airflow? it's (or the MAFs) calibration could be out? I never pay much attention to the MAF airflow relation to the IAC desired.
Old 11-28-2004, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by gameover
hard to tell, could be your IAC is clogged up a bit and has to open more to get the same airflow? it's (or the MAFs) calibration could be out? I never pay much attention to the MAF airflow relation to the IAC desired.
Well I cleaned everything out with top engine cleaner just a few months back, and I ran a lot through the IAC, but I did not break it all apart. I suppose that could be it... I don't trust MAF calculated airflow at low speeds, there is a big difference between MAF calculated and SD calculated. I'm sure that is thanks to the lid. I'll double check when my Shaner S3 gets installed, but I don't think it's clogged. As for calibration, maybe I will just throw a new one in for the heck of it, but I would expect it to throw a code being that far off.
Old 08-15-2005, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by gameover

What else?
In addition to the Idle Airflow routines the PCM also has an RPM based idle spark correction "closed loop" operation that it uses to control the idle RPM. Since the spark advance can move much faster than the IAC, it can provide very fine control of idle speed. When logging you will see this as a jagged spark advance chart, most noticable with cams at lower idle RPMs where the spark advance generally oscillates between it's min/max allowed values as the engine "cams" at idle.

END.
can we get more on regulating spark at idle? all the bigger cam cars i've tuned bounce off their timing quite a bit, i'd love to know how to make it hold steady. What causes it to bounce around like that?
Old 08-15-2005, 05:12 PM
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idle adapt settings as well as the overspeed and underspeed corrections. my timing and rpms do what i want them to now
Old 08-15-2005, 06:52 PM
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Thanks for digging this up RHS. Lots of good info here.
Old 08-15-2005, 07:06 PM
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you can hold the timing at idle steady but deleting the overspeed and underspeed tables. this however will not allow, in most cases, a smooth idle. i adjsuted my spark changes from 25 rpm delta and up in half deg increments starting at 1, i also adjusted the underspeed settings to if the idle dips really low the timing will help it recover on those freak rpm dips on let off. i plan to try and write up a new file of everything i have done so far
Old 04-30-2009, 09:21 PM
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awsome write up, very helpfull
Old 09-30-2010, 09:37 PM
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Yea great right up. Helped make my mind up. That's to let a pro tune it and for me to stop turning that dam screw lol.



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