PCM Diagnostics & Tuning HP Tuners | Holley | Diablo

LS Swap stalling under load

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Old Nov 18, 2020 | 07:01 PM
  #21  
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When you get the fuel pressure fixed and want to run it in SD, go to engine diagnostics and make P0101,102 mil on first error like 103 already is. You can uncheck the boxes if you don't want to see the light. Go to Dynamic airflow and make high rpm disable something like 8000 rpm so the computer will not hunt for the maf sensor. If you run a O2 sensor, make sure you have about 2' of exhaust pipe past the sensor.
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Old Nov 19, 2020 | 05:39 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by gagliano7
I had a similar problem when i first did my swap back in 2011. I had a fuel pressure problem and it ended up being the hose on the pump in the tank came loose. Could also be your regulator.
Agree this happens between the pump and the sender occasionally Start in the tank, make sure all lines are connected properly with the correct hose type and clamp and work your way forward. Check for vacuum leaks also
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Old Nov 19, 2020 | 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by cam
Agree this happens between the pump and the sender occasionally Start in the tank, make sure all lines are connected properly with the correct hose type and clamp and work your way forward. Check for vacuum leaks also
I just don't understand why the lines would have anything to do with it if the problem only arises when the engine is warm. I also don't smell a strong gas smell when I prime the pump so I don't believe it's leaking.
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Old Nov 19, 2020 | 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Tramminc
When you turn the key to activate the pump (without starting the motor) than turn the key off, does it still show 58, if it drops than you may have a bad check valve on the pump or the regulator is gone.
Show us a the video of the gauge under pressure "turning the key, wait 5 seconds than off" it should hold a long time.
How did this test go, did it hold the pressure for a least 1 hour?
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Old Nov 19, 2020 | 09:42 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Tramminc
How did this test go, did it hold the pressure for a least 1 hour?
Primed the fuel pump and let it sit for about 3 minutes before checking the gauge again. Gauge dropped from around 52 to 40 psi in that time. Regulator?
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Old Nov 19, 2020 | 03:01 PM
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I had a car come here that had a similar issue, It started but the gauge dropped pressure when you stepped on the gas. I disconnected the bleed line from the regulator and capped it. I wanted to see if it hold, it didn't. Now it's between the injectors and check valve in the pump. Next I installed a check valve between the pump and injectors, pressure held. Came back a hour later it still had pressure, reinstalled the return line on the regulator it slowly bleed off, replaced regulator, turned the key pressure remained strong (which mean the injectors were not leaking). Long story short, check valve on pump and regular had leaks.

Check valves are cheap,
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Old Nov 20, 2020 | 12:32 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Tramminc
I had a car come here that had a similar issue, It started but the gauge dropped pressure when you stepped on the gas. I disconnected the bleed line from the regulator and capped it. I wanted to see if it hold, it didn't. Now it's between the injectors and check valve in the pump. Next I installed a check valve between the pump and injectors, pressure held. Came back a hour later it still had pressure, reinstalled the return line on the regulator it slowly bleed off, replaced regulator, turned the key pressure remained strong (which mean the injectors were not leaking). Long story short, check valve on pump and regular had leaks.

Check valves are cheap,
How involved a job is it to replace a check valve on an electric fuel pump? Or should I just purchase a new fuel pump altogether. I'd like to think that it's not the fuel pump thats the issue because it's a brand new fuel pump with less than 5 hours on it, but I guess it could be defective especially because I got it for like $40 at Advance Auto. Another reason I think it's not the pump is because its fine when the engine is cold. Should I try replacing the regulator or should I go straight to the pump?
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Old Nov 20, 2020 | 02:20 PM
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You can test the regulator by removing the return line and capping it off. If the pressure remain high, than the regulator is bad.
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Old Nov 20, 2020 | 02:21 PM
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What state are you in, maybe someone can stop by and help.
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Old Nov 20, 2020 | 03:58 PM
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Replaced the regulator. Not sure if this has to do with replacing it but now the truck isn't holding pressure at all.



Edit: was trying to go to sleep and realized I left an extra o ring in the regulator. Went out there and removed it today and now it still doesn't hold pressure but doesn't drop immediately.

Last edited by bm23; Nov 21, 2020 at 06:54 AM.
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Old Nov 22, 2020 | 08:50 PM
  #31  
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Update: So I replaced the fuel pump today and noticed it was holding pressure again. Took it for a drive and it drove like never before. Drove it a half hour away and back today with no issue. Moral of the story: don't trust fuel pumps even if they're brand new. Thank you all for helping me out and I hope to be posting on here again soon.

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Old Nov 23, 2020 | 05:59 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by bm23
Did you notice fuel leaking everywhere or was it not enough to be noticible?
The hose was loose inside the tank so no leaks. From the pump to the sock.
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Old Nov 23, 2020 | 02:20 PM
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I knew you'd find it, good job.
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Old Nov 29, 2020 | 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by bm23
I just don't understand why the lines would have anything to do with it if the problem only arises when the engine is warm. I also don't smell a strong gas smell when I prime the pump so I don't believe it's leaking.
Glad you got it sorted. The leak I mention happens inside the fuel tank. The rubber/plastic lines sometimes dont seal perfectly and pressure will blow off inside the tank so no visible leak, no smell just fuel cycling around inside the sending unit area producing inconsistent pressure at the rail. Brand new part failures are relatively common in my experience the part/s fail in the first week. Past that usually good to go. Shakedown runs and so on are essential developments and testing for a safe reliable build. If you go to the track guys with fresh cars usually start with a bunch of hits only so the car only goes wide open for ten feet maybe. They do this a bunch then start moving further down the track and shutting down. Tuning suspension, getting data, testing parts etc etc etc.

The more you peal a build down the greater chances for something to fail right away. I always say a builds not done until you've driven it a full year ironing out the kinks and chasin away gremlins and whatnot. Bit of a diatribe there lol
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