Please help! trans issues/idle issues
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 168
Likes: 14
I didn't get a chance to take a log of it just idling to see what's going on with the idle, but I've attached the current calibration if any of you guys care to look at it.
Also attached a WOT I did recently (trying to get the car ready for a track day in a week). Can't figure out what's going on with WOT shifts. I told my tuner I wanted the rev limiter set around 6600 but it seems like even after a few revisions, it'll still hit 6800+ at some points when spinning. I know the car is spinning a lot, but is it normal for it to be bouncing off the rev limiter before shifting like that? 2-3 shift is fine (less wheel spin) but almost seems like it shifts too low in RPM's there. The 1-2nd though, with all the wheel spin, seems to do some weird stuff.
could be normal, not really sure. All my other builds have had full manual valve bodies so never paid this much attention to the shifts of a computer controlled auto car before lol.
This is the video of the pull, a quick zero to 110 pull I took to keep an eye on AFR. You can hear it bounce off the limiter before the 1-2 shift.
Also attached a WOT I did recently (trying to get the car ready for a track day in a week). Can't figure out what's going on with WOT shifts. I told my tuner I wanted the rev limiter set around 6600 but it seems like even after a few revisions, it'll still hit 6800+ at some points when spinning. I know the car is spinning a lot, but is it normal for it to be bouncing off the rev limiter before shifting like that? 2-3 shift is fine (less wheel spin) but almost seems like it shifts too low in RPM's there. The 1-2nd though, with all the wheel spin, seems to do some weird stuff.
could be normal, not really sure. All my other builds have had full manual valve bodies so never paid this much attention to the shifts of a computer controlled auto car before lol.
This is the video of the pull, a quick zero to 110 pull I took to keep an eye on AFR. You can hear it bounce off the limiter before the 1-2 shift.
Last edited by kris396ss; Oct 19, 2021 at 12:20 PM.
I checked out the log and the trans tuning.
According to the tune, it's set to shift at 6000 each shift.
This system also uses mph. So it is supposed to "see" the mph first, then shift when it hits the rpm.
The numbers in there look rather stock to me......
There are also tables that determine how long it takes to shift. Frank can comment on those.
So when looking at your log, it blows right past hose parameters and hits the rev limiter.
Your rev limit removes timing, so the power drops, the rpm drops then it starts over and finally shifts.
It's easy to see that it's spinning the tires pretty good as well.
Anyway, getting this all correct is tricky.
I would lower the desired shift time.
I'd also raise the shift rpm. Give it more time to see the rpm.
Maybe a good trans tuner will chime in.
There is also a good trans tuning spreadsheet by Bluecat. Attached the one I have below. It works pretty well. You enter known parameters, select your shift rpm and it calculates all the tables. You just copy and paste directly into HPT.
Question, since I don't wish to read through the whole post and all the quotes, .....is this a flex fuel setup? I see commanded AFR in the 8 range. No wideband in your data.
Ron
According to the tune, it's set to shift at 6000 each shift.
This system also uses mph. So it is supposed to "see" the mph first, then shift when it hits the rpm.
The numbers in there look rather stock to me......
There are also tables that determine how long it takes to shift. Frank can comment on those.
So when looking at your log, it blows right past hose parameters and hits the rev limiter.
Your rev limit removes timing, so the power drops, the rpm drops then it starts over and finally shifts.
It's easy to see that it's spinning the tires pretty good as well.
Anyway, getting this all correct is tricky.
I would lower the desired shift time.
I'd also raise the shift rpm. Give it more time to see the rpm.
Maybe a good trans tuner will chime in.
There is also a good trans tuning spreadsheet by Bluecat. Attached the one I have below. It works pretty well. You enter known parameters, select your shift rpm and it calculates all the tables. You just copy and paste directly into HPT.
Question, since I don't wish to read through the whole post and all the quotes, .....is this a flex fuel setup? I see commanded AFR in the 8 range. No wideband in your data.
Ron
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 168
Likes: 14
I checked out the log and the trans tuning.
According to the tune, it's set to shift at 6000 each shift.
This system also uses mph. So it is supposed to "see" the mph first, then shift when it hits the rpm.
The numbers in there look rather stock to me......
There are also tables that determine how long it takes to shift. Frank can comment on those.
So when looking at your log, it blows right past hose parameters and hits the rev limiter.
Your rev limit removes timing, so the power drops, the rpm drops then it starts over and finally shifts.
It's easy to see that it's spinning the tires pretty good as well.
Anyway, getting this all correct is tricky.
I would lower the desired shift time.
I'd also raise the shift rpm. Give it more time to see the rpm.
Maybe a good trans tuner will chime in.
There is also a good trans tuning spreadsheet by Bluecat. Attached the one I have below. It works pretty well. You enter known parameters, select your shift rpm and it calculates all the tables. You just copy and paste directly into HPT.
Question, since I don't wish to read through the whole post and all the quotes, .....is this a flex fuel setup? I see commanded AFR in the 8 range. No wideband in your data.
Ron
According to the tune, it's set to shift at 6000 each shift.
This system also uses mph. So it is supposed to "see" the mph first, then shift when it hits the rpm.
The numbers in there look rather stock to me......
There are also tables that determine how long it takes to shift. Frank can comment on those.
So when looking at your log, it blows right past hose parameters and hits the rev limiter.
Your rev limit removes timing, so the power drops, the rpm drops then it starts over and finally shifts.
It's easy to see that it's spinning the tires pretty good as well.
Anyway, getting this all correct is tricky.
I would lower the desired shift time.
I'd also raise the shift rpm. Give it more time to see the rpm.
Maybe a good trans tuner will chime in.
There is also a good trans tuning spreadsheet by Bluecat. Attached the one I have below. It works pretty well. You enter known parameters, select your shift rpm and it calculates all the tables. You just copy and paste directly into HPT.
Question, since I don't wish to read through the whole post and all the quotes, .....is this a flex fuel setup? I see commanded AFR in the 8 range. No wideband in your data.
Ron
Thank you so much for taking a look! To answer some questions:
It is a flex setup, the log I posted was with pump E85.
I was trying to figure out the 8 commanded AFR, I guess that's on an E85 scale? The video I posted is a video of that WOT pull that I posted the log of. The AFR fluctuated between mid 11's and 12.0 (I suppose depending on load as there was lots of wheel spin)
I am still working on linking my autometer pro wideband gauge into HP tuners with the pro link. Hopefully get that working this weekend. Eventually I want to ditch it for a 0-5v gauge that starts up without a delay so I can tweak startups but going to work with what I have for now.
Question about the way the rev limiter is programmed on these ECU's. is it a hard cutoff? Meaning the ECU will always make sure enough timing is pulled to prevent the engine from seeing that RPM or could the engine still exceed that under conditions like big tire spin? I really wanted to keep this engine on the safe side and set the limiter to maybe 6600-6700ish, and I did tell my tuner that so I'm wondering how it's still managing to hit over 6800rpm unless he never set the limiter the way I had asked.
The guy I am working with now was supposedly the trans tuner to see about these issues, and while he did get the car like 90% more drivable than the previous two tuners I work with, it was Performabuilt's advice that seemed to help correct the converter lockup issue and now my tuner seems to be getting harder to get in touch with to fix some of these smaller issues which kind of sucks after paying $600. LOL. As long as he gets to it before my track day in two weeks I'll be happy though.
Last edited by kris396ss; Oct 20, 2021 at 12:22 PM.
I can guide you to things you can try.
That ecu allows either spark cut or fuel cut. The older ecu’s are fuel cut. We can change that. Rpm is easy. It’s set to 6800 now.
Engine will still go past that a bit, that’s normal.
I’ll run your setup through that calculator and see what it reveals.
Whats the approx stall on the converter?
That ecu allows either spark cut or fuel cut. The older ecu’s are fuel cut. We can change that. Rpm is easy. It’s set to 6800 now.
Engine will still go past that a bit, that’s normal.
I’ll run your setup through that calculator and see what it reveals.
Whats the approx stall on the converter?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 168
Likes: 14
I can guide you to things you can try.
That ecu allows either spark cut or fuel cut. The older ecu’s are fuel cut. We can change that. Rpm is easy. It’s set to 6800 now.
Engine will still go past that a bit, that’s normal.
I’ll run your setup through that calculator and see what it reveals.
Whats the approx stall on the converter?
That ecu allows either spark cut or fuel cut. The older ecu’s are fuel cut. We can change that. Rpm is easy. It’s set to 6800 now.
Engine will still go past that a bit, that’s normal.
I’ll run your setup through that calculator and see what it reveals.
Whats the approx stall on the converter?
That would be awesome, I'd appreciate that greatly. I messaged my tuner about a week ago and still haven't gotten a reply so looks like I may be on my own trying to get this thing working right before my track day on the 29th.
I really would love to mess with this myself but just not on this setup/car. I put too many good/expensive parts into this one to risk and I kind of just want to be done with the project and driving it/getting it ready for paint. I have another project in the works using a junkyard SBE and it's more of a short trip/race car only so I'll feel much more confident learning on it.
The converter is a circle D and they set it up for 3200rpm. I'm going to mess with that blue cat calculator myself.
