Reluctor wheel failure, Maybe?
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Teching In
Joined: Sep 2018
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Whoa, I missed the attached videos. Certainly appears to be have a bend in it. I guess I got lucky if that is what you want to call it with my motor in that it just spun as mine actually still ran and drive fine. Currently in the process of removing the crank to have a billet wheel and tacked this time around.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2018
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Finally looked at the video and that reluctor is definitely moving around, personally I would pull it and either switch it to a billet 24x reluctor or better yet a 58x/4x setup instead since you can change that in the Holley. Just need to switch cam/crank from a 12V reference to 5V for the crank/cam sensors in the connector and swap the 2 pins in the cam sensor since I think those are different locations but it's easy.
Also I wasn't aware of the reference voltage and signal circuit changes, that's good info and will DEFINITELY be keeping that in mind. Thank you
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2018
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Holley crank trigger setup if you have an ATI balancer (may have missed that as I know you said your balancer was marked)
https://www.holley.com/products/igni...its/parts/8619
https://www.holley.com/products/igni...its/parts/8619
Any updates on this? Ever figure out if your wheel is bent? I've been fighting misfires this year after putting a 383 in my car, broke down and pulled the motor to find some slighty bent teeth..curious on your findings. I'm sending the shortblock back to thompson motorsports who built it to have a one piece billet wheel put on..hoping it fixes the problem.
Thread Starter
Teching In
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Unfortunately, no. I have no useful updates that point me towards whats wrong. I'm in the process of finding a complete junkyard motor that I can run for testing.
I sent my ECU out for analysis, Holley said theres nothing wrong with it. Well, somethin funny happened once I plugged it in: instead of 6-8 being an issue, its now 2-8. SO whatever they did switched around the failures. So now I'm very skeptical and distrustful of their analysis, if you can see why.
Something that's given me almost 100% certainty its NOT reluctor wheel is the "System Diags" in the Holley, theres 20 of them. 1-6-7 are the ones that are useful to you and me.....1 should read 1 million. Diag 6 increases every time theres a CAM SIGNAL error. 7 increases every time theres a CRANK SIGNAL error. Well, if I trust the ECU, my cam and crank signals are perfect.
I do have an oscilliscope in the garage right now to look at the crank waveform to make sure the runout I saw is not the problem......Though thinking through it, I don't understand how that would make cylinders fire 180 out from where they should be. FWIW ALL the pigtails of coils/plug wires/injectors ARE NOT long enough to plug in wrong for those thinking I'm dumb (which I am, and I am dumb enough to do that for sure but not today).
I sent my ECU out for analysis, Holley said theres nothing wrong with it. Well, somethin funny happened once I plugged it in: instead of 6-8 being an issue, its now 2-8. SO whatever they did switched around the failures. So now I'm very skeptical and distrustful of their analysis, if you can see why.
Something that's given me almost 100% certainty its NOT reluctor wheel is the "System Diags" in the Holley, theres 20 of them. 1-6-7 are the ones that are useful to you and me.....1 should read 1 million. Diag 6 increases every time theres a CAM SIGNAL error. 7 increases every time theres a CRANK SIGNAL error. Well, if I trust the ECU, my cam and crank signals are perfect.
I do have an oscilliscope in the garage right now to look at the crank waveform to make sure the runout I saw is not the problem......Though thinking through it, I don't understand how that would make cylinders fire 180 out from where they should be. FWIW ALL the pigtails of coils/plug wires/injectors ARE NOT long enough to plug in wrong for those thinking I'm dumb (which I am, and I am dumb enough to do that for sure but not today).
Thread Starter
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Update: sent the ECU out AGAIN for testing AGAIN. This time around I told the tech specifically to completely wipe the thing and reload it to "factory specification" with no global file loaded, and I'll go completely remake a new tune from scratch in case for whatever reason all my files are corrupted....
If they tell me its good and it still doesn't work, then I guess I put a crank trigger on it. If that doesn't fix it, there very well may be a 416LS3 on kansas craigslist soon. I'm >l----this----l< close to building a hot small block chevy for it. I hope I'm kidding about that
On the bright side, its giving me more time to re-redesign my rear suspension.
If they tell me its good and it still doesn't work, then I guess I put a crank trigger on it. If that doesn't fix it, there very well may be a 416LS3 on kansas craigslist soon. I'm >l----this----l< close to building a hot small block chevy for it. I hope I'm kidding about that
On the bright side, its giving me more time to re-redesign my rear suspension.
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UPDATE AND END OF THREAD
My coil harness was backwards on the even bank. Due to me not taking it apart and labelling properly before removing, but i also could not find anywhere in google a diagram that was clearly labelled the colors for which cylinder. Still doesn't change the fact I'm dumb
Every even cylinder was completely not firing at the right time, 4-6 are close enough in the firing order that it SEEMED like they were firing properly, but very retarded, hence the very hot headers and me thinking they were fine.
I will say, i spent about 30 minutes of scratching my head because the firing order IN MY TUNE as I received the ECU/tune from holley was VERY VERY off. That makes me weary about the holley diag service but I digress.
I measured my crank and cam waveforms and they were mint, matched up perfectly with the sample online.
Now to many heat cycles and tidy up the wiring.
Appreciate the help everyone gave me during this.
Most important takeaway: Ya can't properly troubleshoot an engine swapped car without entertaining the possibility that you messed something up. Mistakes aren't the end of the world
My coil harness was backwards on the even bank. Due to me not taking it apart and labelling properly before removing, but i also could not find anywhere in google a diagram that was clearly labelled the colors for which cylinder. Still doesn't change the fact I'm dumb
Every even cylinder was completely not firing at the right time, 4-6 are close enough in the firing order that it SEEMED like they were firing properly, but very retarded, hence the very hot headers and me thinking they were fine.
I will say, i spent about 30 minutes of scratching my head because the firing order IN MY TUNE as I received the ECU/tune from holley was VERY VERY off. That makes me weary about the holley diag service but I digress.
I measured my crank and cam waveforms and they were mint, matched up perfectly with the sample online.
Now to many heat cycles and tidy up the wiring.
Appreciate the help everyone gave me during this.
Most important takeaway: Ya can't properly troubleshoot an engine swapped car without entertaining the possibility that you messed something up. Mistakes aren't the end of the world
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