O2 sensor came loose and hit headers causing slight burn on wire and connector. I have a new connector and want to know if cutting and adding crimper between over soldiering want cause a issue?

 

Why not do both? Solder the crimp and seal up the wire with waterproof shrink tubing.

 

If I soldier it I would connect them then add the soldiering. After cooled I planned to put heat shrink over it. The crimped has a metal tube on the inside where I would just peel skin off on each wire slide them into the metal tube and crimp down. No way to soldier that crimped area where they go in the metal tube unless there is a new style I’m not familiar with. Main issue is I don’t want the narrow band to have an issue tuning.

 

I train all of my soldiers to solder.

 

Thank you for clarifying i will soldier new connector

 

Soldier = Military personnel
Solder = Melted filler metallic bond

 

A wire that gets hot and vibrates a lot is the last place you want to choose solder instead of crimping. Both could be ok, but if choosing one, crimp is superior in that situation. Either way, heat shrink over the connection as planned.

 

Crimp.

https://www.hpacademy.com/blog/why-i...ing-tech-talk/

 

Crimp then use heat shrink. There is a reason the FAA requires wire crimp over solder

 

Crimp.

Very few people know how to crimp properly, even less know how to properly solder.

 

if it is the wiring on the o2 side just get a new sensor and save yourself some major headaches. if it is on the harness side then crimp and heat shrink is the way to go

 

I'm not good at soldering. Over the years on my hot rod projects I have used the waterproof connectors that have heat shrink and some type of goo that seals the connector as you heat it up. Never had a failure.
I get them at the local hardware store.

 

I'd get the new solderless connectors from Ebay or Amazon that get melted with a heat gun.

 

Proper crimp and then 4:1 marine quality epoxy lined heat shrink to seal out moisture permenately and strengthen the joint. I like uninsulated barrel/butt crimps large enough to insert the insulation jacket for strain relief. Insert both wires fully and give a twist before crimping. The only places I have seen GM ever solder a factory harness have been crimped first and covered with epoxy lined heat shrink. I have tested the resistance of both methods, the average solder joint does not win. The average crimp will win 9 out 10 times. I just built the harnesses to run my IGN-1A coils and there is not a single soldered joint anywhere in it.

Both GM and Nissan allow for solder sleeves for wiring repairs though take that as you will. If you must use one, twist the wires together first, then slide it over the twisted wiring splice then heat it to solder/shrink it. I would still put 4:1 epoxy heat shrink over it. I used solder sleeves in a pinch replacing the 13 pin transmission connector pigtail that was damaged on my 4L85E by road debris on a trip numerous years ago laying on my head under the vehicle but that is not my normal go to repair.

I did a rather aggressive tug test on these crimps. I broke the actual wire before the crimps pulled out and that was without the epoxy heat shrink on the barrel crimp. On that open barrel the jacket is inserted about 1/2 the distance from the end to the center stop. The conductors meet at the center stop and are lightly twisted into each other before the crimp is made.

 

This post is the best answer. The wiring between the sensor and connector can't be shortened/lengthened, crimped or soldered. It has a very specific resistance value.

 

A lot of the sensors also use that wiring for an air inlet.