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dead spot at wot

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Old Sep 9, 2004 | 01:34 AM
  #1  
cueball's Avatar
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Question dead spot at wot

ok, when i floor it, it takes off but not as hard as it used to.
and when i slowly give it gas it pulls realy hard until it hits wot, then it dont hardly pull, but when i back off of the pedal some it starts pulling hard again.
i just got autotap a couple of weeks ago,and am still trying to learn what everything should be,but what should the short term fuel trim, timeing, map
be on a-tap.
been busy have not had a chance to log any info for the problem yet,
no ses is set yet.
if any thing else should be looked at let me know.
thanks.
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Old Sep 9, 2004 | 01:47 AM
  #2  
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Your strims automatically go to 0 at wot. You want your l-trims to be slightly neg. at part throttle so that they lock at 0 at wot. If they are positive, you're getting extra fuel. As far as timing, you want the highest without getting kr. Stock ls1 usually likes about 27 deg. Some cars are different. Many 01 and 02 can only get like mid 20s without kr. Make sure you log your 02s and kr when you make your runs. good luck

forgot to add. we need to know mods to be of any help
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Old Sep 9, 2004 | 02:11 AM
  #3  
cueball's Avatar
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Originally Posted by luv2spd
Your strims automatically go to 0 at wot. You want your l-trims to be slightly neg. at part throttle so that they lock at 0 at wot. If they are positive, you're getting extra fuel. As far as timing, you want the highest without getting kr. Stock ls1 usually likes about 27 deg. Some cars are different. Many 01 and 02 can only get like mid 20s without kr. Make sure you log your 02s and kr when you make your runs. good luck

forgot to add. we need to know mods to be of any help
mods are: 80 mm. t/b, ported ls6 intake,exhaust is a slowmaster muff.
no cats, 85 mm. mass.

ok want slight neg l-trims.
what should the MAP be with the mods?

the car ran good until the other day,
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Old Sep 9, 2004 | 07:52 AM
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I have been seeing a similar problem, which I think is
due to me messing around with TM rather than deleting
it outright. But I have yet to prove that conclusively.
I have made it "mostly go away" but not entirely.

What you want, is to set up logging to catch spark
advance, O2 voltage on one bank, fuel air multiplier,
MAP, MAF, RPM, KR, TPS, FTC, LTFT etc. I also like
to watch the engine delivered torque PID.

MAP should be better than 14.2 (from a BARO of
14.7) on a car with a good intake lineup and without
a strong heads/cam/exhaust. H/C/E permit the engine
to "draw down" the intake manifold pressure more at
the high end. Wide open, of course - MAP at part
throttle is your big toe's guess.

Would like to know what you did the other day; might
be a clue for us both.
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Old Sep 9, 2004 | 08:42 AM
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Are you using a MAFT in addition to the 85 mm MAF or are you tuning with Edit?
I had the same with the MAFT...
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Old Sep 9, 2004 | 11:34 PM
  #6  
cueball's Avatar
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Originally Posted by tici
Are you using a MAFT in addition to the 85 mm MAF or are you tuning with Edit?
I had the same with the MAFT...
ok i think i found the prob.
first: i autotapped my car and i found my bank 1 o2 was not working at all, kinda odd how it went out to, from ignition on to engine running it wont move from .495v. just sits there wile all the other are moving from like .020v.
to .995v.
second: i think my map is allso out it seems kinda low and it dosnt move with the throttle, or engine load, very slow moving.( i checked for a vac. leak, and no leak was found or heard.)
so i will replace the two and see how it gose from there.
thanks for the help guys.

ps- jimmyblue, or any one, can i get some hints on a-tap to get a good start
like i said earlier i just got my a-tap so any help would be appresiated.
i understand the o2,maf,map,tps,iat,ect readings just need help with what some of the other stuff is,and what they should be at.
thanks
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